Honolulu Weekly

Red-skinned rubber-neckers, pushy tour promoters, dubious street performers–these are the irrepressible denizens of Waikiki. If you find yourself there, unable to beat them, you might as well join them. Or maybe some days you’re just struck by an uncontrollable urge for a huge, goofy drink served with paper umbrellas in faux fruit.

Either way, Tiki’s Grill and Bar at the Aston Waikiki Beach Hotel is happy to oblige. Located on the pool deck, tiki statues and masks adorn the lava rock walls, and torches line the balcony of the breezy lanai. The large souvenir shop at the entrance suggests that you will pay–and pay dearly–for your love of campy cocktails and kitschy Hawai’i experience. Your eyes start the inevitable roll to the back of your head.

But Tiki’s has more personality than its faceless, corporate, theme-chain neighbors. The three founders were fraternity brothers from the University of Hawai’i at Manoa, and they know how to appeal to locals along with the tourists by including extras such as free parking and live music nightly featuring local musicians. Drinks and food are large and reasonably priced. The staff is good-natured and gregarious: It’s hard to gauge who’s having more fun–the bartender espousing the social relevance of punk lyrics, or the tourists dancing between tables to an ‘ukulele version of ‘Brown Eyed Girl.’

The place can fill up quickly at night. Those who seek more intimate surroundings can find sanctuary in the restaurant portion, but it’s the bar area that’s the most infectiously fun. Bartender Brad Miller, employed from the beginning, understands the attraction. The tiki-bar ambiance serves as a novelty, the pupu are excellent, and it feels less like an extravagant night on the town and more like just cruising at a local hangout. That’s probably why Miller’s willing to defend the virtues of the joint with more enthusiasm than a shareholder.

‘We’re always involved in something to give back to the island,’ Miller says proudly, as he mixes another potent concoction not listed on the PG-rated menu. (Ask about these.) Tiki’s involves itself in charitable causes, from sponsoring beach cleanups to employee blood drives. By the time you leave, your jaded view of Waikiki will have faded, and you’ll look out at Kuhio Beach with new, rosy eyes. New, rosy, blurred eyes.

Tiki’s Grill & Bar

Getting in: All ages for food, 21+ for drinks, no cover
Dress code: Straight from the beach: shorts, slippahs, aloha shirts
Soundtrack: ‘Ukulele versions of contemporary classics
Sightings: The Rock, Paul Walker
Signature drink: $5.50 rum punch