Slammers redux
Mar 11, 2009 |
If you’re looking for evidence of tough economic times, Ward Centre as of late seems to be the epicenter. Talk abounds of the loss of the three anchor restaurants in a six-month period, but there have been others (wherefore art thou, Black Angus? And don’t say Pearl City). Truthfully though, if there’s any indication of how hard it is to keep a restaurant going, it’s at the corner of Ward Avenue and Halekauwila Street. Former host of Dixie Grill and Tio’s Garage, it’s always seemed like a no-brainer for a restaurant—there’s high visibility in a busy area, free parking, a pleasant lanai and lots of amenities nearby. And yet in less than two years, both establishments are gone, now replaced by Kanpai Bar & Grill.
Third time’s the charm.
Of course, Tio’s and Dixie Grill, both under the watch of Ed Wary, utilized similar concepts, offering an variety of food in an environment featuring the “crazy crap on the wall” concept. And the bar, despite having a small, raised section was always treated as an afterthought—come for the food served on a garbage can lid, stay for a drink or two. That’s all changed with Kanpai, and there’s a reason why the bar comes first.
By bar, we mean sports bar. Gone are all the “humorous” signs and random pieces of memorabilia, and in their places are flat-screen televisions. Lots of them. Pick a spot, and you’ll be able the see the game you want, without the previous distractions of alligators sexually harassing women, or proclamations of credit lines not being available, proving you can have character without acting like a character. The layout is still very much the same, and yet there’s something more inviting with Kanpai’s setup. Tables work perfectly for doubles and groups with higher numbers can retreat to the lanai or back booths. Either way, the staff circles unobtrusively, and doesn’t come off with that phony concern that you get at a lot of more upscale joints.
The bar works as its own entity, but what presumably keeps the place chock full of revelers is the food. Featuring Slammers Bar & Grill alumnus Neil Nakasone among others, the menu features the staples of pub food in Hawaii, with all its salty goodness. From deep fried chicken gizzards to burgers cooked exactly how you order them, the portions are enormous and meant to be shared and the setup makes it easy to do so. It’s the kind of place where half the crowd is there to socialize over a few drinks, and the other half stopped by for a quick bite—and then stuck around to socialize over a few drinks. Both choices are the right one.
