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Cover Story

Te Mana o te Moana, The Spirit of the Sea
Voyagers bid farewell to friends and family before launching their canoes.
Image: shantel grace

Around the World In One Canoe

Pan Pacific Vaka Voyage arrives on O‘ahu in preparation for Hōkūle‘a’s worldwide voyage in 2013
Comes with video

Quoted

The restoration process is as costly as it is meticulous, but due to federal stipends and individual donations, the work continues, which means history is being preserved.

Cover

Cover image for Jun 29, 2011

Photograph by Monte Costa

Te Mana o te Moana, The Spirit of the Sea / It looked like something out of the movie Master and Commander. Amidst a backdrop of fog and the drizzle of constant rain, a fleet of seven South Pacific voyaging canoes dropped anchor in the bay near Kualoa Regional Park Saturday before undertaking a voyage to the west coast of the Mainland. Some will eventually set sail for the Galápagos Islands and the Cocos Islands before finally ending their voyage in the Solomon Islands.

Why?

To prove historians wrong. And to spread the word about how humans affect the ocean, and how the ocean affects humanity.


Voyagers came from 14 island nations including Tahiti, Fiji, the Cook Islands, Aotearoa (New Zealand), Tonga, New Guinea and Samoa. Hundreds of people gathered for the event to honor the Hokulea–the first double-hulled voyaging canoe to make its way through the Pacific using traditional celestial navigation in 600 years–and to bid crew members farewell as they set sail for Kauai and beyond.

The event is all part of Te Mana o te Moana (The Spirit of the Sea), a program that hopes to promote global awareness about the threats to Pacific waters. The trip is sponsored by the nonprofit organization Okeanos, founded by German native Dieter Paulmann. The fleet of seven canoes makes up the Vaka Moana and is powered by wind and sun alone (the only engine onboard is solar-powered).

In the weeks to come, Vaka Moana will undertake a grueling voyage westward, but before they do, crew members and captains will attend Honolulu’s upcoming Kava Bowl Ocean Summit to contribute their knowledge and experience of the Pacific Ocean to research.

The Hokulea–One Canoe, One destination

Just imagine for a minute voyaging around the planet in a Polynesian canoe, sailing from Hawaii and back again. It would take a minimum of 54 months, 42 ports, 200 crew members and 27 crew change-overs to complete. The route would need to avoid dangerous waters and bad weather, all-the-while staying within the capabilities of a double-hulled voyaging canoe. The global journey would be as epic as the launch of a space shuttle and the realization of a decades-long dream.

The Hokulea voyaging canoe, which plans to circumnavigate the globe in 2013, measures 61 feet 5 inches long and weighs 16,000 pounds–empty. It carries up to 16 crewmembers, supports an extra 11,000 pounds and is capable of speeds up to 6 knots. A vessel like this doesn’t simply drift on currents; it’s a performance-accurate canoe built to sail across the ocean.

But before we attempt to understand the significance of Hokulea, we should first understand its history and the nearly abandoned notion of celestial navigation.

On the Edge of Extinction

In 1976, the Polynesian Voyaging Society recruited master navigator Pius “Mau” Piailug of Micronesia to re-introduce the techniques of ancient Polynesian navigation. This led to the renaissance of voyaging, canoe building and celestial navigation throughout Polynesia, Aotearoa and Rapa Nui (Easter Island).

Hokulea navigator Nainoa Thompson says, “Mau passed on his closely guarded knowledge of blue water voyaging so it could be taught to future generations, and that is our plan, to enlist the next generation of voyagers. Without them, voyaging won’t continue.”

Since that year, Hokulea has completed eight voyages using ancient wayfinding techniques.

Relaunching History

If you aren’t familiar with the voyaging canoe called Hawaiiloa, you probably also aren’t familiar with the legendary navigator it was named after.

Hawaiiloa is the hero of the ancient Hawaiian legend who “stumbled upon the Hawaiian Islands.” The Hawaiiloa canoe was built not only to honor his legacy, but also to disprove theories that “hapless voyagers were simply blown off course,” as some historians have falsely, and unforgivingly, claimed.

It’s Hawaii’s only double-hulled canoe constructed entirely of traditional materials. Built in the record time of two years and launched in 1993, Hawaiiloa voyaged 6,000 miles to Tahiti, throughout French Polynesia to the Marquesas Islands, and back.

The canoe has sailed long voyages throughout the Pacific and received a great deal of attention from anthropologists and historians. But over the years, weather and exposure took a toll on the historic vessel.

The Hawaiiloa is the touchstone for the ‘Ohana Waa–a statewide organization and alliance of family canoe builders, friends and fundraisers. ‘Ohana Waa’s leader, Billy Richards, and the organization the Friends of Hokulea & Hawaiiloa plan to restore the canoe at the cost of approximately $300,000.

Inspired by the growing knowledge of sea voyaging, the late master canoe builder Wright ‘Elemakule Bowman, Jr.–“Wrighto” to his pals–turned away from fiberglass hulls to the challenge of building a canoe from native materials.

“In the late ‘80s I was part of the team asked to do a tree search in the koa forests of the Big Island,” Richards explains. “They needed a koa tree tall enough and big enough around to carve into a canoe. When they finally found a tree, they had no way to get it off the mountain.” He laughs when he says, “I called the US Marines to see if they could airlift something that was 5 to 6 tons. They said ‘no problem’ until they heard it was up a few thousand feet where the air was too thin [to operate].”

Fish Out of Water

Looking for “Plan B,” Richards and his crew made contact with the Tlingit tribe, owners of the Sealaska Corporation, who offered two Sitka spruce logs that were 200 feet tall, 7 feet in diameter and over 400 years old. Both Richards and Thompson quote the journals of Captain George Vancouver as he describes the largest canoe ever seen in the Islands, somewhere between 60 and 100 feet, carved from the trunk of a pine tree.

“To those who doubt,” Thomspon says, “visit Ka Lae, South Point on the Big Island. Even today…you can see drift logs from Alaska.”

Woodworkers Jerry Ongies and Jay Dowsett are charged with restoration of the historic canoe. Dowsett’s voice cracks when he says, “The Hawaiiloa was built from spruce, koa, ohia and other canoe woods. The 57-foot vessel logged thousands of miles of open-ocean sailing. Then it sat on exhibit. Like a fish out of water, it dried out.”

Pointing to the multiple cracks, filled and mended with pewa–traditional Hawaiian butterfly patches–Dowsett says the canoe had to come apart in order to go back together. Unfortunately, no one made a master list, so the team is putting the pieces together, “a bit like a jigsaw puzzle in the round,” says Richards.

The restoration takes money, as well as thousands of hours invested by craftsmen who still have to earn a living. In other words, the restoration process is as costly as it is meticulous, but due to federal stipends and individual donations, the work continues, which means history is being preserved.

Regarding the 2013 global launch of Hokulea, Thompson adds, “Our mandate is that 40 percent of the crew will be under 30. Forty or more legs for the trip will allow the new crews to make their own history.”

He also says the crew is already training. “We’ve sailed 16,000 miles since April of ‘08, and it’s only 21,000 miles all the way around the earth at the equator.”

Thompson hopes to recruit from other parts of the world so that they can spread the wealth of knowledge. “The things I can’t do are all achievable if you prepare yourself, if you are ocean strong.”

On Their Way

On scattered islands throughout the Pacific, many voyaging societies struggle to locate and to maintain funding for similar expeditions. But thanks to the Okeanos Foundation, which offered to pay airfares for crew members, and covered the cost of escort vessels, visas, administration costs and provisions, seven voyaging societies are now on their way toward the Mainland coast and other parts of the Pacific.

In a blog by Samoan Voyaging Society, crew member Nga Mihi writes “We’ve pretty much been battered, beaten up and smashed by mother nature for the past week. We’ve been through her washing machine, and so far we haven’t seen much of a gentle cycle.

“As I sit in our tiny galley writing this, the occasional splash of water coming over the roof and into this not-so-waterproof space I realize…It sucks to be wet for a week, it sucks to be pounded and slammed around for a week, and it sucks to not be able to have a fresh water shower. All that being said, I certainly wouldn’t change this experience for the world.”

How Much Is The Ocean Worth To You?

Starting June 30, the Kava Bowl Ocean Summit will take place at the East-West Center, providing a discussion forum on the economic costs of inaction in the face of climate change in the ocean.

Futurists, environmental and cultural educators, policy makers, marine biologists and sociologists, as well as the Polynesian fleet of voyagers will be speaking about the poor health of the Pacific ecosytem and sharing first-hand reports on the state of the Pacific Ocean.

Discussions follow the tradition of Kava Bowl talks, where participants exchange thoughts and ideas at eye-level in order to remove barriers between different cultural backgrounds and expertise.

The end result? The summit hopes to provide concrete guidance for policy and decision makers and accessible information to those of us looking for scientific outcomes applicable to all oceans.

East-West Center, 1601 East-West Rd, June 30–July 4, [kboceansummit.org], 936-1976

Just Come Sail–Criticism of the Pacific Voyaging Society

In a December 2010 article by Hawaii News Now reporter Jim Mendoza, Sen. John McCain is quoted as saying, “One of my all-time favorites that is always on [the Senate spending bill] every year is–$300,000 for the Polynesian Voyaging Society in Hawaii. Now some people are watching and thinking I’m making this up. I’m not making it up.”

McCain’s criticism of the Polynesian Voyaging Society claimed that the restoration and maintenance of the Hokulea was “a waste of money.”

“If he’s questioning the quality of our work, I’ll fiercely defend the sacredness of that canoe, the work of thousands and thousands in our communities here in the Pacific for 35 years of taking care of her, sailing with purpose, and doing our very best to create educational opportunities that help our children in Hawaii,” said Nainoa Thompson in the same article.

“When you’re talking about money,” he added, “every one of those sails, everybody on those canoes that kept every mile safe, everybody is a volunteer. People aren’t there for the money. But we still need support.”

Sen. Daniel Inouye’s then-spokesman, Peter Boylan, also commented, “Rather than learn anything about the Hokulea, how the Pacific was populated by Polynesians sailing with nothing more than the stars, wind, sun, moon and currents as their guide, Sen. McCain wants to vilify the Polynesian Voyaging Society as emblematic of wasteful government spending.”

“My comment to Sen. McCain?” said Thompson. “Just come sail.”

“McCain Criticizes Voyaging Society Earmark,” [www.hawaiinewsnow.com]



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This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.