Support the Weekly

Cover Story

Food Solutions Nobody’s Talking About

One Organic Farmer’s take on Hawai‘i’s Food Policies, Perceptions and Procedures

Quoted

“If Hawaii’s agriculture is going to adapt to a new-think goal of food security, it must adopt “local food, for local consumption” as its guiding motto and move from the can’t-do mentality.”

Cover

Cover image for Jul 27, 2011

Photo of Al and Joan Santoro by Annie Suite

A retired Naval Intelligence Officer, Al Santoro, learned how to be a farmer, and then learned how to farm organically. Together with his wife, Joan, Santoro owns and operates Poamoho Organic Produce on the North Shore. And now, after 10 years, their farm is the largest certified organic operation on the island, with over 800 fruit trees and over 30 varieties of tropical fruits. In an effort to share his experiences and give insight into what it means to be “organic,” Santoro offers his Ag manifesto–dispelling myths and offering solutions to many of Hawaii’s food issues.


“If Hawaii’s agriculture is going to adapt to a new-think goal of food security, it must adopt “local food, for local consumption” as its guiding motto and move from the can’t-do mentality.”

I will admit with some naiveté that I once believed farming was a-political. I soon learned that everyone has an opinion about farming, Ag-land use, food sustainability, GMOs and local produce. I’ve engaged in the almost daily debate about Hawaii’s agriculture but realized that most of us just talk about it, expecting someone else to actually do something about it. After all, we do have a Hawaii 2050 Sustainability Plan…so we must be moving toward food security, right?

Sorry folks, there is no implementation plan, no milestones and no leadership for this change. We have an ancient and declining Ag industry built on 20 years of inbred complicitious failure amongst existing Ag institutions. These ivory tower institutions, agencies and associations are content to maintain status quo as something familiar rather than engaging in problem solving and moving us toward the goals of the 2050 Sustainability Plan.

This is not an easy challenge and there is no silver bullet for reform, but for too long we’ve based our opinions on illusion and fantasy. So, let’s start by de-bunking some of the fantasies that impede change. Fantasy number one: our Ag industry is one big happy family.

Hardly.

The reality is that Ag is hugely diverse with many competing, and often conflicting, interests among distributors, suppliers, processors, retailers and consumers, with farmers in the usual and proverbial downhill position. Our exports of Hawaii Ag products contribute a significant portion to the state’s economy, but the reality is that all of Ag is only 1 percent of the economy: $600 million of $60 billion. By comparison, one state institution–the University of Hawaii–supplies twice that amount ($1.2 billion).

So, promoting Ag exports produces only marginal returns and does not support the state goal of food security. Additionally, while Ag exports support only mainland agribusiness, every dollar spent here on local fresh produce carries a 333 percent economic multiplier, even more reason to buy local.

Fact, or Fiction?

Myth number one: Ag can’t grow because Ag land is scarce. The entire state of Hawaii comprises 4 million acres of land and 2 million acres of that are zoned Ag. It’s not the amount of available Ag land, but what we do with it; of that 2 million Ag acres, only 1 million acres (50 percent) is being used in a farming activity; only 100,000 acres (5 percent) are in crops; and only 4,600 acres is in fruit and vegetables. Now you know why we produce only 10 percent of our own food.

Myth number two: Most people believe that Ag land is expensive, but, really, it’s relatively cheap. Recent sales have been reported at $20,000–$30,000 per acre, which is equivalent to about five times the amount of land at a 10th of the cost of a residential lot in ‘Aiea. The real costs are not found in raw land, but rather in the costs of development, infrastructure and regulations imposed by the county Planning and Permitting Department (PPD).

Myth number three: Food safety means safe food. Not even close. The food safety certification policy, also known as Good Agriculture Practices (GAP), does not protect consumers from food-borne illnesses. The biggest risk for food contamination is from home kitchens and processing and packaging plants–not farms. There are now only 40 out of 7,500 farms in Hawaii that are “food safety certified.” This equates to one half of 1 percent of our farms; and “food safety certification” does not guarantee that it will protect either the consumer from illness or the farmer from liability.

But what about restricting the development of Ag lands? This is a question many people have, thinking that by restricting development we’ll prevent “fake farms.” It’s simply not true (Myth number four). Controlled development is necessary in order to subdivide large parcels into more affordable lots and to move Ag lands into the hands of the small, diversified family farmer. The gentleman farmers and their “fake farms” are a consequence of loose Ag-use rules that do not prioritize “local food, for local consumption.”

There is no question that food security is a new goal that requires changes in perception, policy, procedures and institutions. But status quo is hard to make go away, especially since our agricultural literati have been more enamored with the problems than with their solutions. If Hawaii’s agriculture is going to adapt to a new-think goal of food security, it must adopt “local food, for local consumption” as its guiding motto and move from the can’t-do mentality to a can-do assessment of its problems and its solutions.

Problem and Solutions

There are several policies in effect that limit local farmers’ access to the majority of our own retail outlets and that exclude 99.5 percent of our farms. These policies include: 1) a federal monopoly held by the Defense Commissary Agency (DeCA), as our congressional delegation has approved one distributor to be the sole source of fresh produce to all military commissaries in Hawaii; and 2) the corporate policies of our major grocery retailers and distributors to stock produce from only “third-party food safety certified” farms, thereby accepting produce from only one-half of 1 percent of Hawaii’s farms.

We need to eliminate these artificial barriers to retail markets and create a Hawaii State Food Safety Program that is science-based, targets specific risks and is designed to include instead of exclude Hawaii’s farms. For example, the Food Safety Modernization Act (S-510) now exempts small farms. Since Federal law also exempts 97 percent (7,270 of 7,500) of the farms in Hawaii from these onerous regulations, so should the corporate grocery outlets exempt our small farms from their restrictive policies.

Farming on leased land is often the only choice for many farmers, but many have either no written lease or only short-term leases; this prevents full investment and utilization of land for growing crops. Farmers could better utilize leased Ag land by applying legislative parameters to leased Ag lands that include requirements for a written lease and for a minimum term of 10 years.

Hawaii taxpayers currently pay, through their taxes, all of the costs for inspections of imported fresh produce and disposing of rejected produce. This means that public monies are subsidizing imported food and creating unfair government-sponsored, artificial price supports to importers, which then increases the price imbalance between local and imported food, thus further undermining local farmers. Imposing a tax/tariff/fee on all incoming food containers to cover the full costs of this inspection infrastructure would remove this subsidy; California has already done this with great success.

Loose Terms

The Hawaii Department of Agriculture (DOA) is a regulatory vs. advocacy agency. This means its mission is to either impose or enforce regulations, many of which impede or suppress local farmers. One solution is to reorganize DOA into an advocacy agency; reduce all enforcements and/or transfer any remaining duties to other agencies, such as the Department of Health (DOH) and/or back to USDA.

Ag zoning is limited to only two choices: Ag 1–5 acre lots and Ag 2–2 acre lots. This means every subdivision of larger acreages is broken into these smaller lots, which are then rarely economically sustainable except under high-intensity inputs. This zoning deficiency actually encourages “fake farms.”

By re-zoning all Ag lands we’ll provide more zoning choices, such as “country” or “rural,” for smaller lots; if Ag 2 is eliminated, it will provide more inter-Ag zoning for lot sizes of 10 acres or more.

The Land Use Ordinance (LUO) lists 47 “approved” Ag uses, only one of which is to grow food. This diverts Ag lands into uses that are inconsistent with state and community goals for food security.

We need to review and eliminate all existing Ag-uses that don’t have anything to do with legitimate farming activities (i.e. horses that are not part of a legitimate farming operation), then prioritize remaining Ag uses starting with “local food, for local consumption” as highest priority and ending with all non-food activities, such as nursery or exports.

All of those “loose” Ag-uses receive the same subsidies and monetary incentives such as real estate, payroll and excise tax exemptions (i.e. one horse or 800 fruit trees). This encourages abuse and the use of our valued Ag lands for activities that are lower priority than growing food, while receiving the same subsidies and benefits that food growers receive.

Adjust all monetary incentives to conform to a new list of “prioritized” Ag uses, whereby “local food, for local consumption” growers will receive the highest incentives and all other uses will receive less subsidies. This will provide positive reinforcement for local food production and discourage fake farms.

The Ag institutions such as DOA dedicate more of their budget and personnel to establish or administer programs and policies that promote the exports of Hawaii produce and exclude Hawaii small farmers from local markets than is used to promote “local food, for local consumption”. For example, the Western United States Agriculture Trade Association (WUSATA) program hosts large mainland and foreign importers looking for Hawaii exports; the “Seal of Quality” is an elitist program that promotes the products of just 40 growers, and both the Radio Frequency ID (RFID) traceability and food safety inspection programs exclude 99.5 percent of our farmers.

All programs that “exclude” farmers or that emphasize exports need to be reprioritized, and DOA resources should be redirected to promote and to market “Local Food, for Local Consumption.” These are solutions we’re not talking about.

Land For Sale

There is no standard definition of a “farm” among the counties, no standard criteria for defining the “commercial level” of activity, and the list of permitted Ag activities is far too permissive, which encourages abuse. If these issues are combined into a single redefinition of the parameters to define a farm (such as a farm is a for-profit business entity, engaged in Ag activities that have been redefined and prioritized), on Ag land, at a commercial level, defined as being at least an equivalency of the dollar amount of gross annual sales to the dollar amount of all real estate and payroll tax exemptions for each year of operation.

Much of our Ag lands are now up for sale or have already been sold to developers because our existing Ag land zonings and Ag uses are so broad they actually encourage fake farms.

A solution?

We need a two year moratorium on subdividing any Ag lands in the state in order to give legislators and agencies enough time to redraft laws, rules, regulations and policies that not only preserve Ag lands, but also promote “Local Food, for Local Consumption.



COMMENTS

We often print online comments in our “Letters to the Editor” section of Honolulu Weekly. While submitted letters are often edited for length and clarity, online comments we use are printed entirely as they are written for the website. If you do not wish for your comment to be used in Honolulu Weekly print issues, please write “Don’t Print” at the end of your comment. For questions, e-mail editorial@honoluluweekly.com. Thank you!

blog comments powered by Disqus

This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.