Support the Weekly

Cover Story


Meet the Chefs

From nine Honolulu women on and off the hot line, what’s it like and why did you leave?

Cover

Cover image for Sep 7, 2011

After the Aug. 3 Midweek cover story featuring the next generation of chefs, all nine of them male, some were left asking: where are the female chefs?

“Isn’t it funny how men can dominate a stereotypically female domain?” says Jennifer Hee, vegan baker at Kale’s Natural Foods. The irony is not lost on many of the women in the culinary field. If, as the adage goes, a woman’s place is in the kitchen, where are the women in the restaurant kitchen?

You’re more likely to find them working as pastry chefs, or in every other culinary field–as personal chefs, caterers, bakery owners, or food writers–than you are to find them running a restaurant. Anyone who has read Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential knows of the restaurant kitchen’s notoriously macho atmosphere, an environment in which food quality is measured by how “hard” it gets you. From my experience in the kitchen, sexual harassment lawsuits are a joke much like workers comp and sick days.


In this testosterone-fueled environment, sometimes there’s sexism. “Women have to prove themselves and work harder to get where men are,” says Miya Nishimura, a sous chef at Alan Wong’s. “I think a lot of guys still have a misconception about working with females.” When she’s training males, she says that some have the attitude, “‘What can you show me that I don’t already know’… They’re not even paying attention to what I’m saying and afterward they’ll go and ask some other guy how to do [the same thing].”

But for all the women I talked to who left the restaurant hot line (the non-pastry side of the kitchen), it’s not the sexism that drives them away, at least not here in Hawaii, anyway. Abi Langlas, pastry chef and owner of Cake Works, began her career in the kitchens of England and France; in the latter, she “was the only female these young boys had ever worked with before,” she says. “Coming back home to Hawaii, local guys are a lot nicer than other kitchen lads.”

For Sabrina Sutherland, who has worked the hot line in Houston and Honolulu, and is now a personal chef, the male-dominated environment is even a personal challenge: She says, “You know what, these guys are in for a rude awakening… I kind of play games. I’ll ask the guy, ‘Hey, where are the potatoes at,’ and if he goes and gets them for me, he’s my bitch… I’m a big girl; I can do this.”

So what is it about the hot line that’s so inhospitable to women? There are the standard answers–the heat, the stress, the long hours, the low pay–a long list that any cook, male or female, will rattle off. At a certain point, the question becomes: Why would anyone stay? “Crazy” is a word that comes up often for women who continue to work on the hot line in a restaurant: Mieko Sasaki, the only female sous chef out of five at Morimoto Waikiki, says, “I like the creativity, but there’s a lot of stress of course. It’s time-consuming, you have to get a job done, right now…all the pressure. But somehow, I like it. Call me crazy.”

Opportunities Elsewhere

Seven out of the nine women interviewed had worked on a restaurant hot line before choosing their current career paths. Rather than being driven away from the restaurant hot line, it seems they are drawn by other, more appealing opportunities in the field.

Pastry, in particular, is an attractive and a different sort of challenge. Witness the Top Chef competitions, for example, in which it appears that every contestant’s Achilles heel is dessert.

Michelle Karr, the pastry chef at Alan Wong’s, says, “It’s just a different pace. The hot line is a little bit faster and pastry is a little bit slower, but you need more attention to detail. For me, pastry teaches and emphasizes patience, discipline, creativity and artistry, attention to detail.”

Rachel Murai, pastry chef at Nobu Waikiki, finished her degree in culinary arts (as opposed to pastry arts) at Kapiolani Community College (KCC), but when she started working in a bakery, she found “a new passion for pastry… I love the smells, the meticulousness, patience, and everything is really pretty,” she says.

But for those who love the adrenaline rush of the hot line, why they leave is a much more complicated answer than they “can’t take the heat.” Jill Dwornik, a personal chef and former line cook, chose to make her own schedule. She’s twice been on the sous chef track, but turned down a promotion because of the time commitment required. Her (female) chef at the W Hotel in Chicago said, “‘We need more women chefs in the industry.’ She was the one pushing me to be a sous chef in the kitchen. And I was thinking, well, maybe I’m going to pull back and be a personal chef… I like [restaurant work], but the whole personal chef aspect of it allows me to create my own hours, create my own menu…that was a big plus for me.”

Then there’s the money. The personal chef schedule and pay appealed to Sutherland, especially as a single mother attending culinary school. She says, “raising a toddler, it was hard for me to take on school and then take on a restaurant job making $7 an hour. I couldn’t survive on that.”

Leslie Ashburn, also a personal chef, says “My personal choice was the economics of it. If I was going to go work in a kitchen, I was going to make minimum wage… [And as a business owner], when you invest in a physical location, you have to pay the rent and all the overhead for the space… If I eliminate that cost and just do the part that I enjoy…i can achieve what I want to achieve without having to invest a lot of my resources.”

Though the strenuous schedule and low pay are factors in these women’s decisions, they don’t exactly answer the question of why restaurants are male-dominated; these are burdens upon both genders. If these circumstances affect both equally, shouldn’t there still be a more equal ratio of sexes in the kitchen than there is now?

A Healthy Philosophy

There are some answers to be found in another culinary culture that’s currently drawing a lot of women: food predicated on health as well as flavor. Eateries like Kale’s Deli and Peace Café are both female-run kitchens. In this realm, a different philosophy prevails: One which contrasts the adrenaline highs and ego battles that fuel typical high-end restaurants.

“Chefs spend 14-plus hours in a kitchen,” says Hee of Kale’s Deli. “For me, I cut myself off at eight hours so I can go home and cook for the people I care about. Family’s a huge part of my life… I don’t know [for] other chefs what their goals are exactly, but I imagine they have nothing in common with my culinary goals: to always make simple but extremely nutritious food for the people that care about it, to create a community, to teach people how to take care of themselves in a way, not to cook them a super fancy five-star meal or whatever.

“Maybe [for a guy], if he didn’t achieve all the way, he would never have been satisfied. He couldn’t just be a cook; he couldn’t just have a deli. He has to go all the way to the best restaurant, to the executive chef. Maybe [males] feel more pressure of having to achieve to the very top… That’s not my end goal,” so says the Harvard grad.

Media Bias: Chefism

I’ve been trying to develop an article about female chefs for three years, waiting for enough women to rise up the restaurant ranks. There was also a fear of painting each sex in black and white, while giving the perception of a piece based on gender rather than merit. In the process of waiting for a great female restaurant chef, however, I realized it’s not sexism that colors the media, it’s chefism.

Media focuses on the rock stars, not the music teacher. We write about the actors and actresses, not their agents. And so we write about male chefs in the kitchen, and not the females (or males) in the broader culinary field, even if the latter’s sphere of influence is much greater. It’s not sexism, it’s that in this age of the celebrity chef, the restaurant chef with burn scars up and down his arms is a sexier subject than the macrobiotic personal chef teaching people to eat healthy. Even restaurant pastry chefs, male or female, are rarely featured in a media more attracted to fire and sharp metal, like the horrific car crashes in the nightly news.

Chefs in professional kitchens can reach a lot of people, but only of a certain type. So yes, the chef that promotes local food may have a great impact on local agriculture, but is it really more than the female culinary activist who brings Electronic Benefit Transfer (food stamps) to farmers’ markets?

So where are the female chefs? Absent from the restaurant hot line (at least mostly–Nishimura and Sasaki are very successful in their restaurant careers), but the culinary world is much larger than that. In our fixation on restaurant chefs, perhaps we’ve ruled out the possibility that they are not the best representatives of our food culture. Maybe equating restaurants with food values is a little misplaced–some restaurants are actually driven by what we used to think of as their secondary characteristics: adrenaline addictions, achievement, ego and celebrity. So perhaps the most important result of asking the question “where are the women” is that it encourages us to look at the entire breadth of the food industry–from artisanal food entrepreneurs to food educators to even whoever helms the home kitchen–and how it influences our food culture. And in these other realms, women are well-represented.



COMMENTS

We often print online comments in our “Letters to the Editor” section of Honolulu Weekly. While submitted letters are often edited for length and clarity, online comments we use are printed entirely as they are written for the website. If you do not wish for your comment to be used in Honolulu Weekly print issues, please write “Don’t Print” at the end of your comment. For questions, e-mail editorial@honoluluweekly.com. Thank you!

blog comments powered by Disqus

This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.