Support the Weekly

Cover Story

Generation Next: Food Growers

Young Farmers? It’s not an oxymoron. A creative new cohort is working Hawai‘i’s land sustainably, breaking the shackles of food insecurity.

Cover

Cover image for Feb 15, 2012

There’s a quiet revolution happening in the dirt, being waged with shovels, patience and purpose. It’s a rebellion against a broken and destructive industrial agriculture system, a reconnection to community and long-term productivity. It’s a youth uprising seeded in humanity’s second-oldest tradition, after hunting and gathering: growing food.

The young farmers profiled here are diverse in their methods, crops and scale. What they share is having found a pono way to produce food for their community. In a field where most practitioners are above middle age, they are making an impact beyond their numbers–as change agents, opinion leaders and teachers.


THE LEADER

Cheryse Julitta Kauikeolani Sana, 23, MAO Organic Farms

As one of five Farm Co-Managers in the Youth Leadership Training Program (YLT) at MAO Organic Farms, Cheryse Sana helps train interns to plant, harvest and pack fruits and vegetables. She also teaches the interns and her community about the importance of fresh and local produce– just as she was educated five years ago when she came to the farm as a high school student.

“In many cultures, a people’s ancestors were connected with the main staple that they ate, like kalo in Hawaii,” Sana says. “You would want to eat something that is honest and has good character. Isn’t it amazing to know that all over the world food is respected in similar ways?” Sana urges people to go to different farms and see for themselves what kinds of practices are used on crops. She also recommends going to your local farmers’ market. “If the people selling the food are the ones who grow it, learn as much as you can about how they do,” she advises.

Working at Mao has made Sana a farmer, an activist, a food critic, a concerned community member, a businesswoman, a leader, a teacher, a student, a role model and a lover of the ‘aina. Her vision for food integrity and sustainability is to simply have more and more people growing their own food. “Our ancestors were farmers and ranchers,” she says. “We wouldn’t be here otherwise. We need to get our communities and the rest of Hawaii ready for a revolution, because it’s coming.”

THE GREENS GUY

Jonny DesRoches, 36, North Shore Greens

Surrounded by 100 raised beds of organically grown baby lettuces of 10 different varieties, Jonny DesRoches scratches his surfer mop and explains his strategy. “It’s more expensive to buy untreated wood [for frames] than just use the ground, but I don’t know what’s been done to this soil before I got here. In my raised beds, I know my soil, seed and fertilizer are organic. They keep the weeds out and it’s easier on your back, so I save money in labor.” DesRoches’s strategy includes picking a high-turnover, in-demand crop. His lettuce is on a three-week cycle, so he can harvest often and provide much more volume per pound. DesRoches provides greens for local cafés and restaurants, North Shore residents, and his wife’s new Peruvian-Japanese fusion food truck, Nikkei.

DesRoches has been farming for seven years, first apprenticing under an older farmer in Pupukea who also used raised beds, and now operates his own farm on rented land zoned “Ag One,” on which he also lives. DesRoches says he believes small farmers will see a day where both their farming and their finances can be sustainable.

“Right now, it’s cheaper to buy food that’s produced chemically, but if you buy food that’s locally, organically grown, you’re supporting people in your community,” he says. “Look at places like New Zealand and you will see that the people there depend on their local food producers, and their support grows farmers’ businesses and farmers actually make a great living. And even though now it’s a little extra to buy organic, when the demand goes up and stays up, the prices for the consumer will eventually go down because the farmer is able to survive.”

DesRoches adds that, if the people of Hawaii empower local food producers to grow more food, we’ll have greater food security, too. “I know I won’t get rich farming, but I will be healthy and the people I feed will be too, and that makes me feed good.”

THE INNOVATOR

Josiah Hunt, 31, Josiah’s Papayas and Hawaii Biochar Products LLC

Eight years ago, when Josiah Hunt took on the challenge of growing organic papayas on a commercial scale, there was no template to follow: The papaya industry in Hawaii had been hit hard by the Papaya Ringspot Virus (PRV), and in the early ‘90s researchers at University of Hawai’i came up with a genetic modification that provided resistance to the disease. Most commercially grown local papayas now contain this genetic modification, since producing GMO-free papayas is difficult and rarely attempted. In order to grow organic papayas–GMO-free by definition–on his four-acre farm, Hunt struggled to develop effective methods on the fly, under constant risk of a very costly failure. When he at first succeeded at building a healthy soil with the help of earthworms, a posse of pigs arrived, demolishing a third of the plants while also eating the worms.

“Several barbecues and an electric fence later, we were back on track,” Hunt says with a laugh. Now, he says, he has established what maybe the first commercial-scale, organic papaya farm on the Big Island in decades.

The hardest part of organic farming, Hunt finds, is “there are so many pests that want to eat your plants, it takes a while to understand how to deal with them. This is knowledge that used to be passed from farmer to farmer, but much of that knowledge has been lost and has to be re-learned. Now, with all of our fancy lab equipment, and access to a ridiculous wealth of knowledge on the internet, it is a problem solver’s dream.”

Fertilizers and amendments are also a big hurdle for organic farmers in Hawaii, because there are very few dairy or chicken farms left to provide local, affordable fertilizers. “An interesting thing to note is that we have managed to do this using 90 percent local fertilizers and homemade compost tea blends,” Hunt says. The reason: He’s also founded a business– Hawaii Biochar Products LLC–making his own organic fertilizers and selling them to other local farmers. Hunt makes a form of fertilizer known as biochar, which he makes from burnt green waste, such as municipal landscaping cuttings, forestry residues, invasive strawberry guava and cane grass, which is 100 percent locally sourced.

THE EDUCATOR

Summer Puanani Maunakea, 25, Ka Papa Loi o Kanewai

As a graduate assistant at Ka Papa Loi ‘o Kanewai (the kalo farm at the University of Hawaii at Manoa), Summer Maunakea greets visiting school and community groups and teaches about kalo and other traditional Hawaiian farming practices. While she spends her days taking care of the loi, Maunakea’s ultimate goal is to provide children with opportunities to grow vegetables and fruits and prepare healthy foods they like to eat in school gardens and kitchens, and at home in bucket gardens.

She was inspired while living in Australia and New Zealand, where Maunakea observed that the communities she lived in recycled and composted almost everything, and food sovereignty was learned young. “In Australia I taught at a preschool,” the young native Hawaiian recalls. “Twice a week a horticulturalist would come to my class and we would plant veggies in raised beds outside the classroom. I learned with little 3- and 4-year-olds about growing food organically, and it was then that I realized the empowering importance of providing these experiences to children at a young age.”

Upon her return to Hawaii, as a student teacher at Nanaikapono Elementary in Nanakuli, Maunakea taught her first-grade students how to make bucket gardens. “There’s always a way to grow some of your own food with whatever space you have,” she says. “Each item you grow on your own or buy from someone who locally produced [means] less dependence on imports and fossil fuels.”

In addition, Maunakea oversees her own organic garden at home where she produces food for her family. “In my ‘ohana, there is a lot of struggle with heart disease and cancer,” she explains. “I wanted to share nutrient-rich foods and prepare them in a way that tasted good, in hopes that, as a family, we would choose healthier eating choices. For me, growing food for my family without chemical fertilizers is pono, the right thing to do.”

THE CREATIVES

Crystal Thornburg-Homcy, 29, & Dave Homcy, 41, Crave Greens

Professional surfer Crystal Thornburg-Homcy and her cinematographer husband, Dave Homcy started their raised-bed, diversified backyard farm on Oahu’s North Shore five years ago. They grow arugula, beets, okra, collards, butter lettuce, kale, radishes, green onion, bhut jolokia chili, swiss chard, taro, pineapple, mint, oregano, rosemary and turmeric. They also have mango, lime, lemon, grapefruit, tangerine, avocado, lychee, cacao and fig trees. Crave Greens provides produce for local restaurants Opal Thai, Cafe Haleiwa and Luibueno’s, Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) groups and other organizations.

“We love being able to be part of the whole process of growing our own food. It has really made us appreciate fruits and vegetables more, by knowing the time, love and work it takes to grow food,” says Dave. Over the years, the couple has gathered information about how to grow organic produce through university classes, volunteering with various organizations, reading books and articles, trial and error, talking with friends and fellow farmers and online research.

“With the desire to bring fresh organic produce to the tables of friends and family, we hope to inspire others to start a small garden in whatever space you have to work with,” Crystal Homcy says. “We are not certified [organic] but we are organic. We make our own compost with garden and kitchen waste, and use worm vermicast for fertilizer and pesticide. We want to show our community that you don’t need a big space to grow your own food, or to give up your daily life, either.”

INVESTING IN EDIBLE CROPS

Neil J. Hannahs, director, Kamehameha Schools Land Assets Division Endowment Group

Hannahs is responsible for a portfolio of about 358,000 acres of agricultural and conservation lands in Hawaii. In the past, as a society with an industrial food model, Hannahs observes, we didn’t care where our food came from, so long as it was on the shelves. Kamehameha Schools/Bishop Estate (KSBE) aims to change that, both as an educator and a landlord.

“We acknowledge that there’s a very strong grassroots movement towards sustainability and food sovereignty, and we want to pitch in and contribute by putting more of our lands into local food production,” Hannahs says, speaking of an “institutional migration” towards a new Strategic Agricultural Plan investing in more diversified, edible crops. Current KSBE produce-growing tenants on Oahu include Otsuji, May’s Wonder Garden, Twin Bridge and Sumida farms. “Providing food to our educational programs is [also] a goal,” Hannahs says. “While KSBE sometimes buys from our farmers, in order to meet demand for our campuses, we need to resolve supply, consistency and meeting the food safety certification that’s required for school food services.” KSBE is committed to strategically working with farmers to meet local food needs, Hannahs says, adding that he’s feeling upbeat about our prospects for feeding ourselves, based on the student awareness and participation he sees throughout Hawaii. “It’s not just in KS. There are scores of school gardens integrating food into the curriculum, as well as Mao’s wonderful farm internships,” Hannahs says. In other words, we’re bound to be seeing more and more young farmers producing sustainable local food.

NEEDED: LOCAL FARMERS AND FOOD

According to the USDA’s most recent census data on Hawaii’s farmers, the majority of our principal farm operators are 55 to 65 years old. There are fewer than one hundred farmers under the age of 34, and only 300 farmers ages 34 to 44, out of 5,601 farmers, statewide. These numbers stand to grow, since 81 percent of Hawaii residents say demand for locally grown food greatly outweighs the supply, according to a recent Ulupono Initiative poll.

“What we want in Hawaii is to use the Ag land to grow local food for local consumption,” says Annie Suite, co-owner of the Haleiwa, Hawaii Kai and Ala Moana Farmers’ Markets, who says she sees demand for local produce increasing firsthand. “Our biggest use of Ag land in Hawaii is research corn, second is nurseries. A lot of the edible produce that we do grow, like coffee and macadamia nuts, is exported.”

Meanwhile, 85 percent of the food we consume is imported, which translates to $3.1 billion leaving the state; if we could replace just 10 percent of imports with local food, it would generate about $188 million, according to a 2008 report by UH CTAHR.

SMALL FARMER, BIG HURDLES

While Big Ag is busy growing items that are not for local consumption, Small Ag is stymied by the price of land, short-term leases that are not conducive to sustainable farming practices, the cost of labor and the inability to set a realistic price for products at market says Kelly Abbott of the Hawaii Organic Farm Association. For those who seek organic certification, the burden of record keeping and being able to prove that their methods comply with organic standards, as well as the high cost of certification (generally $500-$1,000 annually, depending on size, scope and complexity) is a hurdle as well.

The cost of producing food locally is more expensive than what consumers are used to paying, contends Abbott. “This is because local food is produced at the ‘real’ cost of food production,” Abbott explains. “It is not grown, handled, traded, shipped and sold at wholesale, nor is it subsidized.”

D.I.Y. Farming Tips

All the young farmers advise that local food production is something everyone can do in their yard, on their porch, in a bucket or on their windowsill–in any space available. Most people maintain a landscape anyway, why not have some food in it?

*Find a mentor at a farm or in a school and apprentice under him or her to start.

*Not everyone has the time to maintain a veggie garden, but trees and bushes don’t take much effort. Every yard in Hawaii should have a breadfruit, an avocado, a banana clump, a mango and/or a lychee tree.

*Keep your day job and start small. Pick a crop that is in high demand and can be harvested often.

*Developing markets is your top priority, so maybe start with one restaurant and sell a natural product until you can get an organic certification.



COMMENTS

We often print online comments in our “Letters to the Editor” section of Honolulu Weekly. While submitted letters are often edited for length and clarity, online comments we use are printed entirely as they are written for the website. If you do not wish for your comment to be used in Honolulu Weekly print issues, please write “Don’t Print” at the end of your comment. For questions, e-mail editorial@honoluluweekly.com. Thank you!

blog comments powered by Disqus

This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.