Cover Story

It’s more than a century since our many cultures began to share their kaukau tins in plantation [days.It]’s more than 20 years since Hawaii Regional Cuisine put to bed forever the old saw that the best meal you’d get here would be on the plane on the way over. We are in the midst of a pleasurable but challenging shift: farm to table, table to farm, you to farmer, farmer to you. Where you used to go to Foodland, Longs and Costco, now you have to add a farmers market. You can order aquacultured abalone online, slather whole wheat pizza dough with pesto made from Kahuku sea asparagus, buy berries in season from Kula, get poi instead of rice on some plate lunches. And your local favorite restaurants are ordering whole, Island-grown beef and pork and carving up cuts we haven’t seen in ages. If you’re feeling a little confused, read on for clarity. Wetalk with one of the original 12 HRC chefs, interpret the latest menu terms, peek in a restaurant kitchen and just generally ferry you about the Hawaii food world.

Food Drink