Don’t fish into the wind
There may always be other fish in the sea, but the way in which our oceanic ecosystem mends the gaps left by overfishing depends a lot on our commitment to sustainability and what we choose to put on our biodegradable dinner plates. John E. Randall, also known as the “Fish Man,” has photographed and named more species of coral reef fish than anyone in history. The senior ichthyologist at Bishop Museum says that in order to preserve the fragile balance of our fisheries, we need to focus on cleaning up our beaches, stopping our over-use of plastic, eliminating gill netting and establishing more marine protected areas. By establishing marine reserves near areas that are over-fished, Randall explains, “adult fish can grow to full reproductive maturity, produce so many eggs, grow to larvae and come back into the area we’re over-exploiting.” While we ease back and let the fish repopulate to supply our demands, here’s a sampling of what the Environmental Defense Fund says are some of the Eco-Best choices of fish–each caught from healthy, well-managed populations using low-impact fishing gear, or farmed fish raised in systems that control pollution, chemical use and escapes: abalone, anchovies, barramundi, softshell clam, Pacific cod, dungeness crab, U.S. crawfish, Pacific halibut, mahimahi, mullet, mussels, farmed oysters, pink shrimp, tilapia, yellowfin tuna.
The art of artisinal cheese plates
No, the cheese should not stand alone. It presents best in the aroma of a few compatriots, plus a little bread and fruit. We are pleased to find Chef Philippe Padovani’s bistro cheese plate reborn at Elua Two, his new venture with Chef Donato Loperfido. The “mostly French” selection “varies from week to week, day to day; examples include Petit Basque, a St Marcellin, Roquefort, and a Maytag Blue,” says Edwin. Three-cheese selection, $13; 4-cheese, $17. Or get it on wood planks at Cafe Brasserie du Vin at $4 per cheese with dried fruit and nuts.
Our Mr. Bog (Cheese, that is) says the cheese plate at Haleklani’s La Mer is the best in town, but he doesn’t rule out the one downstairs, with live music, in the hotel’s Lewers Lounge. For DIY, “The best place to buy interesting cheeses is Star Market in M’ili’ili,” he says.
Elua Two
1341 Kapi’olani Blvd, 955-3582 Cafe Brasserie du Vin, 1115 Bethel St., 545-1115 Halekulani Resort Hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd., 923-2311.
It certainly is
Situated in the heart of downtown on Cooke Street, This Is It Bakery and Deli is modeled after a New York-style bagelry. Its small storefront exterior belies a roomy interior. Assorted freshly baked bagels from savory (onion and garlic) to sweet (a chewy raisin and nut-packed cinnamon) can be had for the paltry sum of 95 cents each, $10.50 per dozen. They even have bialys, an unexplored territory in Hawai’i. “The secret is in the malt,” divulged a well-known local pastry chef. At This is It, they’re on to it.
This Is It Bakery and Deli
443 Cooke Street (808) 597-1017
Divinely Simple Diminutive Desserts
Sugar Rush, the dessert catering company founded by pastry chef Frances Pons, conjures whimsical confections that blend European traditions with Island tastes. Her motto: Always Eat Dessert First. Baking, she says, comes from the heart.
Sugar Rush
1404 Colburn Street 949-4948 [sugarrushhi.com]/
No limit poke
“Kahuku Superette ‘ahi poke bowl … to die for,” says Mark Cunningham, resident of nearby Kawela Bay and member of [DefendOahuCoalition.org]. Everybody who’s anybody, it seems, craves the taste of the delightful poke bathed in the owner’s special sauces. Deli counter women work efficiently to serve–generously–crowds of students, locals and tourists. Varieties include regular, shoyu and limu, and cost $8.99 per pound plus $.75 for rice. Chili sauce available.
Kahuku Superette
56-505 Kamehameha Hwy. 293-9878
Mea ‘ono pua’a
It’s Hawaiian for manapua (confusing, yeah? But try look ‘em up ‘fo you get all huh), and woe unto our mainland brethren who don’t know the joys of a good one. Chunk of white dough + chunk of pork = simple perfection. Appropriately, the best manapua can be found in Chinatown, in a little alcove called Char Sung Hut. For $1, you can get a softball-sized classic to eat on the street, or you can splurge for a specially wrapped box to take on the plane for the poor wretches in Las Vegas who have noy experienced pure manapua magic. Hosannas not included.
Char Sung Hut
64 N. Pauahi Street
Stollen moments
In the heart of Kalihi lies an old-style German delight. Gingerbread and Stollen (the quintessential Christmas fruit cake) conjure up images of mountains with snowy caps and steaming hot chocolate–but at Fritz’s, celebrate your holiday season with Old-World bakery local style. Recently, alas, Fritz’s lost their German chef, so their German bakery selection is in fluz. Adolf, a long-time customer who immigrated to Hawai’i from Bavaria, comes mainly for the Kasseleria hearty bread. The stollen comes highly recommended from long-time Fritz employee, Eileen, for its dense mixture of dried fruits and nuts. “I can’t tell you how many, but we sell a lot of them,” she smiles.
Fritz’s
1336 Dillingham Boulevard 841-4641
Dobash Yourself
Year of the Rat, time to get fat. Easy at Liliha Bakery. Their classic dobash cake, chocolate chiffon filled and coated with pudding icing and sprinkled with dry cake crumbs, transported moms and aunties back to the 1950s (in a good way, mind you) at a recent birthday party for one happy college kid. On the side, grab a guava chiffon cake. And never leave without a bag of coco cream puffs wearing little Chantilly cream hats. Acquired in April by Peter Kim of Yummy Restaurant Group, the bakery will hopefully stick close to home in every sense.
Liliha Bakery
515 N. Kuakini St., 531-1651
Stand no deliver
Drive north along Kamehameha Highway 2.2 miles past Sunset Beach and you’ll see the Kahuku Corn Stand on the mauka side of the road. Ricky Rabago, the farm’s owner since 1986 informed us, “Kahuku corn is the best, it’s sweet, crisp and juicy. Corn should be yellow with some white kernels.” Nearby a group of friends were laughing in between mouthfuls of freshly grilled corn. They had driven all the way from Kalihi just for the immediate gratification of Kahuku kulina.
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