Restaurants, Bars and Wagons
Pizza and beer at Harbor Pub
Wine and roses. Rock and roll. Tit for tat (all right–tat). Shock and awe. Some words just go together, both in rhythm and meaning. But few pairings work as well as pizza and beer.
Sometimes one just has to consider the quality verses quantity. Beer is good. Pizza is good. And there’s a plethora of places available for consumption of both, some of them at the same time even. But if it’s quality you’re after, look no further than the Harbor Pub.
Part dive bar (but don’t call it that), part local staple and part scenic hideaway restaurant, it manages to hold many cards while never deviating from the game. And the game is to have fun. As long as you’re not a shrinking violet (patrons often roam the tables, and if they want to talk to you, then goddamn it, they’re going to talk to you), they have you covered.
Offering an extensive menu ranging from breakfast specialties, staple sandwiches and burgers, that would almost be enough, even without considering the bar, which is small and hard to find a seat in, no matter what time you visit. But it’s the pizza–and the camaraderie–that makes it an almost required weekly, if not daily, stop for inhabitants of the Ala Wai boat harbor, along with residents located within stumbling distance.
Andy Sexton plays music at the Chart House, located directly above Harbor Pub a couple of nights a week, but says he spends more time downstairs, carousing with the regulars.
“There’s a camaraderie here that you’re not going to find anywhere else,” Sexton said. “It’s a melting pot, and it’s a pot that’s been melting for generations.”
The pizza combinations, like the beer selections, aren’t particularly amazing–Combination, Bud light. Vegetarian Combo (which uses only locally-grown products), Killian’s. Standard one-items, Coors light. But the quality of the pizza can make even the most pedestrian of the beers taste as sweet as … well, the pizza. Besides, the patrons give Harbor Pub all the character it needs.
Harbor Pub
1777 Ala Moana Blvd., 941-0985
Greens, eggs & HiSAM
The Downtown motto, “You are where you eat,” lies at the heart of chef Ed Kenney’s philosophy on food and community. The minimalist space–an extension of the historic Hawai’i State Art Museum–is at once photography gallery and culinary epicenter, a sensorium in itself.
Steve Brown, a Bostonian transplant who has worked with Ed for a decade, ranks the mahimahi with warm white beans, Ho farm tomato, arugula and organic salsa verde as Downtown’s best-seller. However, as customers become more adventurous around unfamiliar dishes, the braised lamb cannelloni and warm roasted chicken salad are close seconds. “The comte and fines herbes omelet with organic lettuces is what defines us–it is the essence of Downtown’s personality,” Brown says. “The fact that we dare to serve an omelette at lunch–and it’s not a ham and cheese omelette, but one that is totally ingredient driven–is what Ed is about–the finest, freshest and most simple ingredients. When you have that fresh simplicity, you just can’t go wrong. We are not into all that fluff–the whistles and bells–the height of the plate. Anyone can cut up mozzarella and put it on a plate. But can you make mozzarella with love?”
Downtown
250 South Hotel Street Honolulu 536-5900
Grandwagons
Both Food for Thought and Opal Thai Food offer light, nutritious and organic dishes using locally grown North Shore veggies. Meals are under $9, with plenty of yummy side dishes between $1–$4, and tasty beverages around $2. These eco-friendly establishments are quite popular among health-conscious locals, especially surfers and Hale’iwa’s firefighters, both regular parts of the scene. Tables with umbrellas await you amidst huge trees in this comfortably tropical location. Food for Thought owners Kelly and Neil Tsutsui opened about six months ago. Opal and Aoy opened Opal Thai Food lunchwagon about seven years back at the North Shore Farmer’s Market, and moved to their present location in 2006.
Food for Thought
(780-7982, closed Sun)
Opal Thai Food
(381-8091, closed Tue)
Both open 11am–6pm and are located next to each other at the south end of Hale’iwa, across from McDonalds, on the mauka side of the highway.
Buen sabor
Serving handmade foods, Armida Duarte’s family creates feisty and faithful Mexican dishes at El Palenque. “Family and community are first,” says daughter Miriam. “Fresh veggies come from Wahiaw farmer’s market, after school hours are limited to be with our children.” The chunky guacamole, steak picado, sope and horchata are delightful. Catering services available.
El Palenque
177 S. Kamehameha Highway Wahiawa 622-5829
Soul de Cuba
It’s like Proust’s madeleine, con mojo: Jesus Puerto, co-owner of Soul de Cuba Cafe and National Finalist in the 2008 National Restaurant Association Faces of Diversity Award, is selling a taste of his childhood to his customers. His Cuban Mojo Marinade Salsa, inspired by an authentic family recipe, is a savory blend of citrus, garlic, onions and spices. Guaranteed to Cubanize your meats, poultry and seafood. Indulge for just $5.
While you’re there, try one of the Nicaraguan rums and the ceviche to dance for in a martini glass with scalloped limes, wisps of parsley, cilantro and succulent marinated fish. Warm up for the biopic of Che!
Soul de Cuba Cafe
1121 Bethel Street,545-CUBA [souldecuba.com] Available for private parties & catering
Udon right
The fresh hand-made noodles at Jimbo are legendary–notably the chewy udon. The hot version is perfect for a cold Hawai’i day (er, 70 degrees), the cold for every other day of the year and the curry for even the worst hangover. The noodle varieties pair well with any of the entrees offered in the combos ($12–$15), ranging from curry rice to tempura. If you’re not a fat noodle fan, order the soba or the skinny udon–also lovingly and freshly hand-made.
Jimbo Restaurant
1936 S. King St., 947-2211, Sun-Thu 11am–2:50pm, 5–9:50pm; Fri-Sat 11am–2:50pm, 5–10:20pm
The little truck that could
The Aguinaldo family is proving that vision, hard work and family support can manifest in a thriving aquaculture business. Romy’s Kahuku Prawns & Shrimp grows, nets and serves delectable shrimp, prawns and sunfish from their 31 ponds. Expansion heralds larger facilities, an educational center, salt water ponds, a bird sanctuary and the production of abalone. It’s that holy of holies, truly sustainable local fish farming.
Romy’s Kahuku Prawns & Shrimp, Inc.
56-781 Kamehameha Highway
An India jones
India Cafe is a longtime a favorite for restaurant-goers in search of something different, delicious and reasonably priced. The atmosphere is warm and down-to-earth, and 10 percent of what they make off their delicious masala dosai, curries and lassi milkshakes–just to name a few of the popular items–goes to a children’s foundation back in Chef Jiga Segaran’s hometown, Madurai. The recipes? Straight from Grandma.
India Cafe
1016 Kapahulu Ave, 737-4600
Stuffed of legend
This local dim sum palace honors the origins of the dish perfectly, from the hubbub of Hong Kong to the servers criss-crossing the room. Rivaling even the best dim sum in New York City, Legend Seafood Restaurant is still 100 percent local, with affordable prices on a wide selection of seafood. The taro puffs with prawn dumplings and the seafood appetizer platter are especially tasty.
Legend Seafood Restaurant
100 N. Beretania St., 532-1868
Without pier
Nico’s at Pier 38 has extended its hours to greet the after-work crowd who need a respite from the day. According to French-born/local-turned Chef Nicolas Chaize, a.k.a. “Nico,” the ambience of a fishing village is tranquil and many downtowners seek out the pp–the favorite being the furikake pan seared ‘ahi with a scintillating ginger garlic cilantro dip rolled in seaweed. What’s up for the summer is the new Burner barbecue cooked to live local tunes on Saturdays.
Nico specializes in the marriage of the plate lunch with “fresh from the sea” fish dishes, such as the forthcoming grilled ‘ahi sandwich to the more exotic fried ‘ahi belly.
Nico’s
1131 N. Nimitz Highway 540-1377
Szechuan of the best
Known for generous portions of Szechuan cuisine, Honolulu staple Maple Garden is a warmly decorated restaurant where the chef is willing to accommodate you to the fullest. Artist John Young did the striking Chinese screens and Robert Hsu’s chefs provide the intriguingly named, impeccably prepared dishes–from the spicy eggplant to the tea-smoked duck. Been there before and want something new? Go on the weekend to catch their Mandarin brunch.
Maple Garden
909 Isenberg St., 941-6641
Mediterranean mix
Owner-chef Bruno Iezzi serves up a tasty Italian cuisine perfect for breakfast or lunch at Mix. This cozy cafe puts its menu on a mirror and local photography on the walls. Try waffles for breakfast or any of Bruno’s pastas for lunch, alongside an acai smoothie or a mid-afternoon latte. And we ought to mention that the healthy heap of greens that gets served alongside the sandwiches is fresh, locally grown and delicious.
Mix Cafe
35 S. Beretania St., 537-1191
Pasta basta
Donato Loperfido’s new joint is a little taste of Italy. Sit outside for more intimacy (it can get loud inside at dinner), sane conversation and people-gazing in the Waterfront Plaza. The pastas are scrumptious and fresh; choose from one of the rotating pasta specials. On Saturday night the Spezzatino di Carni misti–braised beef, pork and sausage bathed in red wine-accompanied by Borlotti beans and roasted garlic ($20) was filling and flavorful even though it arrived below room temperature. Artisanal pastas, mozzarella cheese and sausages are all made in house.
Waterfront Plaza, Restaurant Row (523-9999)
Pizza makes house calls?
Italy comes to your kitchen with Roberto Pizza Party. Chef Roberto Gramigni (an actual Italian!) trucks his fresh ingredients and woodburning stove to your home or office and cooks up a mess of pizza right in front of your amazed guests. The pies are prepared in traditional Italian style, which means ukubillion thin, light slices of pizza with toppings such as arugala, smoked prosciutto and artichoke hearts. Say hello to Roberto!
Roberto Gramigni
(Private Personal Pizza Chef)
497-5324 [email: robpizzaparty1] $15 per pizza, minimum 15 pizzas, plus $20 per hour
We cry “Uncle!”
Bruce Johnson showcases some of the freshest fish on the island in the armpit of Pier 38 and The Fishing Village.
Next door to Nico’s, Uncle’s Fish Market and Grill, a relative newcomer on the scene is a fish eatery to be reckoned with. A stone’s throw from the dock, Uncle’s architectural stainless steel body connotes a commitment to the immaculate that underscores authenticity of Uncle’s fresh fish.
Johnson is a culinary innovator–he arms his fish with bar codes to document the fish’s trajectory from sea to plate, as well as to track employee skill. With paranoia on the rise amongst consumers, this system of tracking can appease the most finicky eater.
Uncle’s has recently added dinner and live music to its repertoire to place itself in a variant time zone from Nico’s. Watch out for the weekly gig of the siren singer/songwriters–The Girlas.
On a Saturday night, our server sat with us as we ordered. Select from one of the generously sized fresh fish plates (two large pieces) of ono, opah, pink snapper, marlin, swordfish, salmon, ahi or mahi served seven ways. The favorite is Uncle’s Sing-Chao Style: sauteed broiled, poached or baked fish topped with lup chong, cilantro, green onion, soy and oyster sauce crowned with hot peanut oil.
Uncle’s Fish Market and Grill
1135 N Nimitz Hwy 275-0063
Shipping up to Boston
Pizza, quite rightly, should be considered one of the essential food groups, since it’s so easy to include different pieces from each category on one slice. And nowhere is it as easy to fit all those food groups as it is at Boston’s Pizza, where a single slice is the a quarter-size of a gargantuan-sized pie. The spinach and garlic are big sellers, along with the Big Red.
If you’re concerned about freshness, order a whole pizza, as those are made to order, instead of the reheated slices, but be warned–you’re going to need some friends to help you finish it all.
Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery
Kua ‘a-ina breakfast
Going North Shore is all about getting outdoors, swimming in the misty rain, hiking in the hills. Our fave morning energizer is breakfast at the Palm Terrace at Turtle Bay. The buffet offers the fresh fruits you love and some you’ve never seen before, as well as omelettes made to order, pancakes, waffles, all kine meats and bagels and lox. At $23.95.
A la carte, we go for poached eggs on shrimp/crab hash. $14.50. With plenty ketchup. And drink in the view: green cliffs, ironwoods, unbuilt beach … Hope it stays that way.
Turtle Bay Resort
293-6000
Wind in the willows
When it comes to open-air dining in the old Hawaiian style, The Willows rules. Tt digs her poi, lomi salmon and chicken long rice. Auntie loves the curries with all the condiments. Sister goes for salad bar and ‘ahi poke. Uncles and boy cousins belly up to prime rib and kalua pig. We go for the fried haupia and macadamia nut pie. Lunch buffet, $24.95, adults. Keiki run about the lawn and watch the carp in the pools. And when night falls, memories of Auntie Irmgard’s music sweeten the wind that shakes the fronds.







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