Diary

Sea of plastic

Will a massive heap of trash land on our shores?

We’re gonna need a bigger truck: Cleaning the shores of Kamilo beach.

When Captain Charles Moore sailed the research catamaran Alguita back to California from Hawai’i after a shakedown cruise in 1997, he made a fateful decision. From time immemorial, sailors have avoided the tropical region known as the Doldrums (aka the ‘Horse Latitudes,’ because becalmed sailing ships often had to dump livestock overboard when they ran out of drinking water). Moore decided to sail straight through, thinking it would be a good test for his boat’s twin diesel engines.

He’d heard rumors of a giant garbage patch in the Doldrums where the Central Pacific Gyre current deposited thousands of square miles of floating plastic debris. He was appalled to discover the stories were true.

‘I’d sailed to Hawai’i in 1961, and I didn’t ever remember anything like that,’ he says, ‘Now, every time I came on deck, I saw a bottle cap or a shard of plastic or a soap bottle… I said, ‘I’ve gotta come back and test this out and find out much is here.”

With that voyage, the notorious garbage patch changed from seafarer’s legend to scientific fact.

Moore would sail the Alguita on multiple expeditions to document the phenomenon. In 1999, he and his crew did a systematic sample survey, and discovered that, on average, the area held six pounds of plastic for every pound of plankton, the tiny creatures that form the base of the ocean’s food chain. On successive voyages, the news became exponentially more alarming. When the Alguita anchored in Radio Bay this fall after its most recent trip to the garbage patch, Moore’s crew hadn’t finished processing all the samples they’d collected, but the plastic-to-plankton ratio of many of the samples was running about 40-to-1. In one sample, it was 600-to-1.

It’s bad enough the ocean holds a continent-sized trash dump–but the trash may not stay at sea.

‘I’m afraid Hawai’i’s not ready for that invasion, because these things are poised to sweep down with the winter storms,’ says Moore. ‘And Hawai’i has no infrastructure for preventing or even cleaning it up once it reaches these shores.’

Plastic sand

It’s not just the big stuff. Most plastic is inedible to sea creatures, even bacteria; it doesn’t biodegrade. It does photo-degrade, becoming more brittle and breaking up as sunlight gradually alters its chemistry. But those pieces don’t decompose; they just keep breaking into ever-smaller pieces.

‘What you’re looking at is a future in which Hawai’i’s beaches are covered with plastic, and plastic sand will become the norm,’ says Moore.

On at least one beach near South Point in Ka’u on the Big Island, the future is already here. Kamilo Beach has always been a marine trash collector. According to local legend, Hawaiians used to go there to find evergreen logs from the Pacific Northwest to use for canoes. Today the beach is piled high with plastic debris of all sizes: crates, buoys, lobster traps, umbrella handles, oyster spacers (little plastic tubes used to separate shellfish at oyster farms) from Japan, bottles from America and Asia, dozens of plastic toothbrushes from everywhere, myriads of the little pellets from which plastic products are made–and other tiny bits as small as grains of sand. Moore thinks Kamilo is in the running for the dubious title of the world’s dirtiest beach.

In early October, Moore visited Kamilo beach with local volunteers and a marine biology class from University of Hawai’i-Hilo. The class, taught by Prof. Carla McDermott, is conducting research on the debris. The students marked off a few square meters of beach in grids, removed and categorized the larger debris and brought home samples to sift for smaller bits.

While the researchers were studying the problem, the volunteers were clearing debris. Bill Gilmartin of the Hawai’i Wildlife Fund loaded his truck with fishing nets and bags of trash.

Also at work were activists Suzanne Frazer and Dean Otsuki, the founders of Beach Environmental Awareness Campaign Hawai’i (B-E-A-C-H), which has initiated cleanups at several O’ahu beaches. Frazer said that she’s seen essentially the same mix of debris washing ashore at Sherwood, Bellows and Makapu’u beaches–right down to the Japanese oyster spacers–but Kamilo was far worse.

Instead of sand, ‘my shoes were filling up with little bits of plastic. That’s never happened to me before at any beach,’ she said.

‘Dean and I went every weekend for six months [to Bellows] to clean up the beach. And that was nowhere near as bad as Kamilo,’ she said. ‘We don’t even know how far down [the plastic] goes. It looks like it’s several feet deep.’ To clean up the beach, she believes it will take ‘hundreds of people and weeks or months or even years … [because] the beach is so bad that it’s going to take several hours even to make a small difference in one little patch, maybe two meters square.’

Slow poison

The problem is more than aesthetic. Plastic can be deadly at every stage of its breakdown. Large pieces, such as plastic netting, fishing line and six-pack webs, can entrap and strangle or drown wildlife. The smaller pieces can also kill from inside: plastic objects are so new to the marine environment that animals don’t know not to eat them–the pieces can lacerate guts or clog windpipes or simply fill up the stomach so that there’s no room for food. Some of the more gruesome research photos in Moore’s collection show the dissections of starved Laysan albatrosses from the Northwest Hawaiian Islands. When their bulging stomachs were cut open, masses of plastic spilled out.

Some of the more insidious effects of plastic marine debris could occur as the pieces get even smaller. Many plastics leech carcinogenic or poisonous chemicals as they break down: Bisphenol A (BPA), DEHP, styrene, phthalates and others. And while they’re releasing some toxins, they’re absorbing others.

‘These things are sponges for our most toxic pollutants,’ says Moore. ‘Pesticides, DDT, PCBs … these things stick to plastic. When wildlife eats it, it gets absorbed into their systems.’

What to do?

The garbage patch and Hawai’i have become international plastics dumping grounds. The problem can’t be solved here alone. But local residents can at least avoid contributing to it. Frazer notes that the bushes around Kamilo Beach are filled with garbage bags full of trash, apparently tossed there by campers. But she’s noticed that once they’d cleaned up certain beaches, the beaches tended to stay cleaner, because people had a sense that there was something to be preserved. B-E-A-C-H has also helped matters by combining cleanups with education campaigns. After a daylong clean-up-and-educate campaign at Makapu’u Beach, they hauled away 3,427 cigarette butts; a week later, the total dropped to 394. They had similar results at Sandy Beach. Since the sands there are cleaned and sifted every two weeks by the City and County, she’s fairly confident that the reductions were the result of B-E-A-C-H’s educational effort.

Ultimately, the solution to plastic marine trash will come from recycling plastics before they get to the water–or, better still, not using plastics to start with.

Frazer and Otsuki are planning another trip to Kamilo this month to do more clean up and get a more accurate assessment the problem. They’ll also be bringing clean-up equipment to leave with local volunteers. Moore and the Alguita will be leaving soon on another expedition–further south, this time. He suspects that a second garbage patch may lurk there, feeding the trash heaps at Kamilo.


QUOTE

‘It’s not just about our team, it’s about our whole state.’

-June Jones after Saturday’s completion of an undefeated season.
(Honolulu Star-Bulletin)


FACTOID

12.4%

The amount of income that Hawai’i taxpayers pay, which puts their state and local tax burden as sixth highest in the nation, according to taxfoundation.org.



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This week

Honolulu Confidential

For this year’s Food + Drink issue, we compiled 100-plus memories of the fantastic bites we’ve taken, the culinary experiences we’ve undergone and other tasteful moments of absolutely loving what Hawaii’s food scene has to offer. The result is a mixed plate of the Weekly ‘ohana’s favorite dishes, libations, produce, places and some lesser-known joys.

Favorite Dishes

Respect Your Veg At long last, vegetables are being recognized as culinary stars. The following dishes have two things in common: They’re veggie-centric, if not strictly vegetarian, and best eaten on the spot.

Noodles

Paitan Broth: Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya If you’re a ramen lover, you know the most important element of the bowl is the broth. At Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya, the paitan broth ($9.95 for paitan chashu ramen) is deeply savory.

Baked Goods

Naan: Cafe Maharani “The dough is just special,” says owner Chris Rahman of Cafe Maharani. The naan ($2.99) is made to order and handled very delicately.

Mean But Worth It

Asian: Green Door Cafe Enter into Green Door Cafe to find a whole ‘nother world. Owner Betty Peng is a one-woman show (don’t start with her, or else) and cooks all of her Singaporean dishes to order.

RIP

Byron’s Drive-in The vacant, former Byron’s Drive-in building still stands near the airport since closing its doors in February. “We’d always go [to Byron’s] late at night,” says Sabrina Thompson, a Tripler Hospital nurse.

Meat

Shinsato Pork: Guava Smoked Scott Shibuya of Guava Smoked made a splash in the farmers’ market scene with his finger-licking good, guava wood-smoked Shinsato Pork. “I really wanted to be my own boss,” he says.

Dairy

Cheese: Surfing Goat Dairy Owners Thomas and Eva Kafsack moved from Germany to Maui and found that they missed receiving fresh goat cheese from their neighbors’ backyards. A few goats from the Big Island (and a huge investment) later, Surfing Goat Dairy was born.

Snacks & Desserts

Decadent Fries: Home Bar and Grill These aren’t ordinary fried potatoes. Chef Neil Nakasone’s Parmesan truffle fries ($8) are an elite class of spuds.

Pop-Ups

Rotations: Taste Some might say Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi and partner Amanda Corby, with the help of another power couple, Poni and Brandon Askew of StreetGrindz, fleshed out the pop-up trend with Taste. But: “Actually, Adam is Taste,” Gooch explains, referring to Taste’s general manager, Adam Lock.

Healthy

Healthy Food Truck: Beet Box Cafe The Beet Box Cafe is a sit-down eatery located in Haleiwa Town, but their bright yellow lunch wagon is also worth following. The lunchtruck serves organic, vegetarian burritos ($7-10), a special of the day made with farm-to-table ingredients ($10-12), smoothies ($7.50), kombucha ($5) and snacks such as baked goods and dried fruits ($3).

Seafood

A Cook’s Catch When it comes to fish, freshness really matters, so eating local from our Hawaiian waters is always in the best of taste. Health and sustainability also count.

To-Go

Whole Foods & Down To Earth Down to Earth offers strictly vegetarian delights such as Bombay spinach, eggplant parmesan, stuffed shells, Thai curry and vegetable korma ($9.59/pound). The tofu and eggplant are always sourced from local producers.

‘Aina

Edible Land: Permablitz Fruit trees flourish in Hawaii but sadly, much goes to waste. Permablitz aims to change that.

Fruits

Foraging: Strawberry Guava at Waahila Ridge Strawberry guava is invasive to Hawaii, which is why I don’t feel an ounce of guilt picking the small, red fruits in (free!) handfuls whenever I hike up Waahila Ridge. When they’re a light red color, just pull them off the trees, check for bug-made holes and bite in.

Spices

Nutmeg and Cloves: Frankie’s Nursery Want to spice up your kitchen? Lynn Tsuruda of Frankie’s Nursery says they sell spices grown in Hawaii, by the plant or the fruit.

Specialty Markets

Filipino: Pacific Drive out to Central Oahu and find Pacific Supermarket, a haven for all things Southeast Asian. With the Leeward community’s large Filipino population, access to local favorites at Pacific is a big deal.

Lesser Known

Korean Chew: Taegu Taegu, more properly pronounced as dae-goo, is either a variety of cod, sliced into strips and seasoned, or a seasoned side dish. There is some confusion, as I came to realize while asking my born-and-raised-in-Korea mom, because those side dishes are made with different fish.

Coffee & Tea

Matcha Latte: Peace Cafe Peace Cafe, a second home for vegans, carries a matcha (green tea) latte with a secret. “The first sip is always the most important,” explains an employee.

Healthy

Good For You: Kombucha A SCOBY is a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast integral to making kombucha. Kombucha, a fizzy tea, is full of promises to boost detoxification, immunity and digestion and joint health.

Cooking Classes

Free: Whole Foods Whole Foods Market Kahala offers free cooking classes at CookSpace in Ward Warehouse. “We just did a Health Starts Here cooking class,” says Whole Foods marketing supervisor Natalie Aczon.

Alcohol

Wine Tasting: Kalapawai Cafe Every second Sunday of the month at 3:30 p.m., Kalapawai Cafe holds a free wine tasting. “We [have] five wines.

Aloha ‘ino

Dear Friends, Readers, and Advertisers, I am sorry to say that this will be the last issue of the Weekly that we will print. I am sad about closing but I see no way that we can maintain our revenue stream and our fiscal health.

Phasing

Native Hawaiians and preservationists have pledged to fight a law, signed by Gov. Neil Abercrombie on May 28, that will allow some construction projects to begin before the site has been fully inspected for ancient burials.

A Food Forest

Imagine you’re walking through downtown Honolulu and, rather than bypassing an empty, blighted park, you’re drawn into an urban oasis–a forest of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. You could spend your lunch break chatting with friends in the shade of an ‘ulu tree–and, if you’re hungry, pick whatever’s in season.

CIVIX

Road Rule On May 20, Gov. Abercrombie signed Act 73, requiring all vehicle passengers to buckle up regardless of age or seating arrangement.

Hell No, GMO

Tourists enjoying the Waikiki waterfront were treated to Hawaiian phrases such as “Aole, aole, aole GMO!” chanted by protesters in the March Against Monsanto on Sat., May 25. Translation: No GMOs, ever.

Done Deals?

The Hawaii Community Development Authority (HCDA) made its proposed plan to redevelop the Kakaako district available to the community during an open house on Thu., May 23. HCDA Executive Director Tony Ching began with a presentation of the new Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) plan before letting residents ask questions.

TheBus

In 2011 the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) was tasked by then-Mayor Peter Carlisle’s administration to shave $10 million from its budget. Over the course of a year, several bus routes were cut and many more were shortened or reconfigured and the frequency of service decreased.

No one for GMO

You mentioned in your May 29 GMO article (“Big Pharm Fallout”) that GMO bans were placed on taro and coffee in 2008 in Kohala County. However it was an islandwide ban in Hawaii County.

Sovereignty issues

What a great quote: “I understand that it’s frustrating that we can’t get past the issue of homelessness . .

Not pono

I know space is limited and you couldn’t put everything in one small article (“Art with HART,” May 29). Here is the rest of what I wanted to have said.

Git ‘er done

Have five or more contractors “compete” by tackling sections of roadway (“Road Repaving,” May 29). Criteria for competing are expenses, timeliness and a level of quality assurance standards.

A memoir’s reach

Thanks for this article (“The Naked Truth,” May 22), I’m Mykel Hicks, grandson of Sharon Hicks, and I am so proud of my grandma for all she has done for herself, this family and specifically me. She is an amazing grandma who comes with a moving story I hope can help people around the world.

Fix Kakaako

Please remind readers that the HCDA is not interested in providing housing for minimum wage individuals or families, but in providing property developers with profitable opportunities; that our ancient water and sewage lines were not designed to support the needs of thousands of condo and apartment dwellers, but no one is interested in replacing them because no one wants to pay the price (“Civix,” May 22). As a result, Kakaako’s streets are regularly flooded with no sidewalk retreat for pedestrians, wheelchairs, bicyclists, skateboarders, etc., and constantly excavated/repaired to accommodate one project after the other.