Features


In a (strawberry guava) jam

A debate over how to handle the spread of invasive species leaves the future of one well-known plant hanging in the balance

It hardly looks threatening. The strawberry guava plant’s bright green leaves, hard wooden stalks and heavy ruby-colored fruit appear right at home in Hawai’i. It’s been here for nearly 200 years, and has expanded throughout forests across the islands in dense thickets, displacing native plant species and the birds that rely on them to such an extent that scientists fear widespread species extinction.

It was during the 1820s that strawberry guava came to the islands from Brazil, more than half a century before Hawai’i’s most famous biocontrol blunder saw the introduction of mongooses to attack the rats that were gnawing through sugar crops–the result of which, as any local well knows, was not the intended eradication of rats, but instead a compounded rat and mongoose problem.

Now, strawberry guava is caught up in its own biocontrol controversy. For the past 15 years, a group of federal and state agencies have come to the decision that the best way to beat back strawberry guava overgrowth is to release the Brazilian aphid-like insect Tectococcus ovatus, or T. ovatus, to eat away at the plant and reduce its fruits.

“Once strawberry guava starts spreading, it basically crowds out everything else,” said David Duffy, a University of Hawai’i botany professor. “It makes these impenetrable clumps that remove the food source for endangered Hawaiian birds. Another major concern is that, because pigs use strawberry guava as a food source, it helps spread pigs to places they otherwise wouldn’t go, and the presence of the pigs creates wallows because they like to get down in the mud and roll around, then pools of water collect and mosquitoes that spread avian malaria thrive.”

But many are reluctant to see strawberry guava threatened.

“There’s been no consideration about the environmental and cultural impact of removing a food source at a time when food is so expensive,” said Sidney Singer, a medical anthropologist and environmentalist on the Big Island, where T. ovatus would first be released. “It’s really an attack on our access to wild, free food.”

At least 90 other plant species, including mango, ‘ohi’a, java plum, eucalyptus and koa are related to strawberry guava, inciting worry about the possibility of T. ovatus jumping between species and hurting more than just its intended target. The federal and state agencies and others who have studied T. ovatus and its relationship with strawberry guava, and endorse the insect’s release into Hawaiian forests, say studies have proved that it will only eat strawberry guava.

“In nature, there are these very specific interdependent relationships,” said Christy Martin, spokeswoman for the Coordinating Group on Alien Pest Species. “This insect cannot survive without the strawberry guava. In situations where the strawberry guava is removed but other plants are available, it will die every single time because it does not exist on any other plant, even in Brazil.”

But local environmentalists say the testing to support this claim isn’t substantial enough, and the possible consequences are too potentially devastating to risk.

“We’re talking about an irreversible decision,” said Singer. “The tests are inadequate. They’ve only performed tests on very few species. You can’t just release T. ovatus and see how it goes. Once we got ‘em, you just have to sit back and watch. That’s it.”

Others argue that introducing a potentially harmful insect doesn’t make sense when strawberry guava is harvestable–not only for its fruit but also for its wood.

“The wood can be used for tool making, for firewood, it burns for a long time and it burns very hot,” said O’ahu environmentalist Stuart Scott. “I won’t minimize that it’s an aggressive species. It grows thickly and it crowds out other species but it’s not the only introduced species that does that. Why pick on strawberry guava?”

Scott also said that if strawberry guava is removed, other more aggressive species like fiddlewood will still crowd out the plants that scientists aim to preserve. While harvesting strawberry guava may seem like a win-win solution, Duffy pointed out that it’s not cost-effective and maybe not feasible at all.

“It’s a nice idea and I’d love to see a model that works,” he said. “But assume we’re going to harvest: You’d have to put roads in to get to the forest, so that’s one cost and an enormous amount of destruction. Then you have to chop down the strawberry guava, who’s going to do this? And what are you gonna do with it? What kind of factory needs to be built? It’s nice to have these ideas but you can only take it so far before it costs more, even just to transport it, than what it’s going to be worth.”

But the public outcry on the issue, especially on the Big Island, suggests that strawberry guava may be worth the trouble, at least to those who use it and believe they should have a say in what lives or dies in their own backyards.

“Biocontrol is the current vogue,” said Singer. “Right now, we look back 50 years ago when they were still bringing things over here just because they grew well, not thinking about native species. Now the pendulum has swung, and they aren’t thinking we need food and we need to use the environment for growing food. Just thinking about preservation of native species is extreme.”

As it stands, the state Department of Land and Natural Resources still has to release an environmental assessment of the T. ovatus proposal, then allow 30 days for public comment before moving forward. According to Martin, that likely won’t happen until early 2009.

Duffy said he understands why people are concerned, but that inaction can be just as dangerous as making a rash decisions.

“I am a scientist, and scientists will almost always tell you that you need more research,” Duffy said. “The T. ovatus species is not the most effective possibility for controlling strawberry guava but it is the safest, and given what we know, I do not think we need more research. The one thing we need to think about is, do we want to have native ecosystems in the future? Do we have a responsibility to our grandchildren and our great grandchildren to let them choose whether they want to have native forests, or are our short-term interests more important than theirs? I’m just worried that in a century or two, people are going to look back and say, ‘what in the world were they thinking? Why didn’t they save the things they could have?’”



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This week

Honolulu Confidential

For this year’s Food + Drink issue, we compiled 100-plus memories of the fantastic bites we’ve taken, the culinary experiences we’ve undergone and other tasteful moments of absolutely loving what Hawaii’s food scene has to offer. The result is a mixed plate of the Weekly ‘ohana’s favorite dishes, libations, produce, places and some lesser-known joys.

Favorite Dishes

Respect Your Veg At long last, vegetables are being recognized as culinary stars. The following dishes have two things in common: They’re veggie-centric, if not strictly vegetarian, and best eaten on the spot.

Noodles

Paitan Broth: Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya If you’re a ramen lover, you know the most important element of the bowl is the broth. At Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya, the paitan broth ($9.95 for paitan chashu ramen) is deeply savory.

Baked Goods

Naan: Cafe Maharani “The dough is just special,” says owner Chris Rahman of Cafe Maharani. The naan ($2.99) is made to order and handled very delicately.

Mean But Worth It

Asian: Green Door Cafe Enter into Green Door Cafe to find a whole ‘nother world. Owner Betty Peng is a one-woman show (don’t start with her, or else) and cooks all of her Singaporean dishes to order.

RIP

Byron’s Drive-in The vacant, former Byron’s Drive-in building still stands near the airport since closing its doors in February. “We’d always go [to Byron’s] late at night,” says Sabrina Thompson, a Tripler Hospital nurse.

Meat

Shinsato Pork: Guava Smoked Scott Shibuya of Guava Smoked made a splash in the farmers’ market scene with his finger-licking good, guava wood-smoked Shinsato Pork. “I really wanted to be my own boss,” he says.

Dairy

Cheese: Surfing Goat Dairy Owners Thomas and Eva Kafsack moved from Germany to Maui and found that they missed receiving fresh goat cheese from their neighbors’ backyards. A few goats from the Big Island (and a huge investment) later, Surfing Goat Dairy was born.

Snacks & Desserts

Decadent Fries: Home Bar and Grill These aren’t ordinary fried potatoes. Chef Neil Nakasone’s Parmesan truffle fries ($8) are an elite class of spuds.

Pop-Ups

Rotations: Taste Some might say Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi and partner Amanda Corby, with the help of another power couple, Poni and Brandon Askew of StreetGrindz, fleshed out the pop-up trend with Taste. But: “Actually, Adam is Taste,” Gooch explains, referring to Taste’s general manager, Adam Lock.

Healthy

Healthy Food Truck: Beet Box Cafe The Beet Box Cafe is a sit-down eatery located in Haleiwa Town, but their bright yellow lunch wagon is also worth following. The lunchtruck serves organic, vegetarian burritos ($7-10), a special of the day made with farm-to-table ingredients ($10-12), smoothies ($7.50), kombucha ($5) and snacks such as baked goods and dried fruits ($3).

Seafood

A Cook’s Catch When it comes to fish, freshness really matters, so eating local from our Hawaiian waters is always in the best of taste. Health and sustainability also count.

To-Go

Whole Foods & Down To Earth Down to Earth offers strictly vegetarian delights such as Bombay spinach, eggplant parmesan, stuffed shells, Thai curry and vegetable korma ($9.59/pound). The tofu and eggplant are always sourced from local producers.

‘Aina

Edible Land: Permablitz Fruit trees flourish in Hawaii but sadly, much goes to waste. Permablitz aims to change that.

Fruits

Foraging: Strawberry Guava at Waahila Ridge Strawberry guava is invasive to Hawaii, which is why I don’t feel an ounce of guilt picking the small, red fruits in (free!) handfuls whenever I hike up Waahila Ridge. When they’re a light red color, just pull them off the trees, check for bug-made holes and bite in.

Spices

Nutmeg and Cloves: Frankie’s Nursery Want to spice up your kitchen? Lynn Tsuruda of Frankie’s Nursery says they sell spices grown in Hawaii, by the plant or the fruit.

Specialty Markets

Filipino: Pacific Drive out to Central Oahu and find Pacific Supermarket, a haven for all things Southeast Asian. With the Leeward community’s large Filipino population, access to local favorites at Pacific is a big deal.

Lesser Known

Korean Chew: Taegu Taegu, more properly pronounced as dae-goo, is either a variety of cod, sliced into strips and seasoned, or a seasoned side dish. There is some confusion, as I came to realize while asking my born-and-raised-in-Korea mom, because those side dishes are made with different fish.

Coffee & Tea

Matcha Latte: Peace Cafe Peace Cafe, a second home for vegans, carries a matcha (green tea) latte with a secret. “The first sip is always the most important,” explains an employee.

Healthy

Good For You: Kombucha A SCOBY is a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast integral to making kombucha. Kombucha, a fizzy tea, is full of promises to boost detoxification, immunity and digestion and joint health.

Cooking Classes

Free: Whole Foods Whole Foods Market Kahala offers free cooking classes at CookSpace in Ward Warehouse. “We just did a Health Starts Here cooking class,” says Whole Foods marketing supervisor Natalie Aczon.

Alcohol

Wine Tasting: Kalapawai Cafe Every second Sunday of the month at 3:30 p.m., Kalapawai Cafe holds a free wine tasting. “We [have] five wines.

Aloha ‘ino

Dear Friends, Readers, and Advertisers, I am sorry to say that this will be the last issue of the Weekly that we will print. I am sad about closing but I see no way that we can maintain our revenue stream and our fiscal health.

Phasing

Native Hawaiians and preservationists have pledged to fight a law, signed by Gov. Neil Abercrombie on May 28, that will allow some construction projects to begin before the site has been fully inspected for ancient burials.

A Food Forest

Imagine you’re walking through downtown Honolulu and, rather than bypassing an empty, blighted park, you’re drawn into an urban oasis–a forest of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. You could spend your lunch break chatting with friends in the shade of an ‘ulu tree–and, if you’re hungry, pick whatever’s in season.

CIVIX

Road Rule On May 20, Gov. Abercrombie signed Act 73, requiring all vehicle passengers to buckle up regardless of age or seating arrangement.

Hell No, GMO

Tourists enjoying the Waikiki waterfront were treated to Hawaiian phrases such as “Aole, aole, aole GMO!” chanted by protesters in the March Against Monsanto on Sat., May 25. Translation: No GMOs, ever.

Done Deals?

The Hawaii Community Development Authority (HCDA) made its proposed plan to redevelop the Kakaako district available to the community during an open house on Thu., May 23. HCDA Executive Director Tony Ching began with a presentation of the new Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) plan before letting residents ask questions.

TheBus

In 2011 the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) was tasked by then-Mayor Peter Carlisle’s administration to shave $10 million from its budget. Over the course of a year, several bus routes were cut and many more were shortened or reconfigured and the frequency of service decreased.

No one for GMO

You mentioned in your May 29 GMO article (“Big Pharm Fallout”) that GMO bans were placed on taro and coffee in 2008 in Kohala County. However it was an islandwide ban in Hawaii County.

Sovereignty issues

What a great quote: “I understand that it’s frustrating that we can’t get past the issue of homelessness . .

Not pono

I know space is limited and you couldn’t put everything in one small article (“Art with HART,” May 29). Here is the rest of what I wanted to have said.

Git ‘er done

Have five or more contractors “compete” by tackling sections of roadway (“Road Repaving,” May 29). Criteria for competing are expenses, timeliness and a level of quality assurance standards.

A memoir’s reach

Thanks for this article (“The Naked Truth,” May 22), I’m Mykel Hicks, grandson of Sharon Hicks, and I am so proud of my grandma for all she has done for herself, this family and specifically me. She is an amazing grandma who comes with a moving story I hope can help people around the world.

Fix Kakaako

Please remind readers that the HCDA is not interested in providing housing for minimum wage individuals or families, but in providing property developers with profitable opportunities; that our ancient water and sewage lines were not designed to support the needs of thousands of condo and apartment dwellers, but no one is interested in replacing them because no one wants to pay the price (“Civix,” May 22). As a result, Kakaako’s streets are regularly flooded with no sidewalk retreat for pedestrians, wheelchairs, bicyclists, skateboarders, etc., and constantly excavated/repaired to accommodate one project after the other.