And then there was ‘ekahi
Dec 9, 2009 |
Honolulu is becoming a wine-bar town. We’ve got Vino, Amuse, Formaggio, Flights at Twist, and now Sapori Enoteca/Birreria (1341 Kapiolani Blvd, 955-3582). Chefs Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani shuttered their two-in-one restaurant ‘Elua in early November, and last week Loperfido reopened the space as the Italian wine-and-beer bar.
While Padovani is globe trotting as a restaurant consultant for hotels (the bartender said he heard the French chef is in Mauritius), Loperfido took stock of the economic times and reworked his side of the menu as a small-plate lineup. He partnered with Cynthia Fenner, formerly the wine specialist at Neiman Marcus, and he reunited with Scott Nelson, hiring him as chef de cuisine. (Nelson had worked at Donato’s before going to Brasserie Du Vin.)
On the menu are favorites from Donato’s and ‘Elua, as well as new items which run a very affordable $6 to $18. Dishes include fried polenta and goat cheese drizzled with pomegranate molasses; roulade of house-made mozzarella, roasted peppers, asparagus and arugula with a sizeable salad of tatsoi and mizuna; house-made pappardelle topped with wild boar ragù; cassoulet-like stew of beef short ribs, sausage, pork and borlotti beans. Handcrafted beers come from around the world, such as the Japanese Ise Kadoya Genmai Ale and the unfiltered Eisenbahn Vigorosa Weizenbock from Brazil. The list of wines by the glass also offers wide-ranging selections available in two-ounce and five-ounce pours. Best news of all–Fenner says Sapori is committed to keeping late-night hours.
