Food Box

Hawaiian Style manager Thompson (left) sells a nice slice of life.
Image: Rie Miyoshi

The best-selling item at a surf shop has nothing to do with water.

In early December, Hawaiian Style opened where Quiksilver used to be on Kapiolani Boulevard. The store sells the usual surf merchandise: surfboards, shirts, swimsuits and–yes–pies. But not just any pies. Pies from Holy’s Bakery on the Big Island.

There was a time when you could find a Holy’s Bakery pie by popping into any Star Market (remember them?). Now, Hawaiian Style is the only place on the island selling these delectables, with apple, peach, pear or coconut filling ($17.50 for each frozen pie). Store manager Frankie Thompson says one of their workers suggested selling pies to draw in locals, and the idea worked. “It’s our top-selling item,” Thompson says. “We sell about 50 pies [per] day.”

The message here is clear: Eat pie. Go surf. Eat more pie.

Holy’s Bakery is a family affair run in Kapaau on the Big Island by Margaret Hori. At 82 years old, she’s been in the business for what she calls “a long, long time already.” Her father, Yoshio began the bakery in the 1930s, a time when the entire family had to pitch in to help, she says. Now, she works mainly with her grandson Ryan, training him for the day when he will eventually take over the family’s legacy.

These sweet pies are renowned for their not-so-secret ingredient: butter. Pop the frozen pie into the oven for an hour at 350 degrees and you’ll find loads of the good stuff bubbling out of the top crust. “We recommend you bake it frozen,” says Hori. “Don’t thaw it out!” Obey her only rule and the filling will taste remarkably fresh, the crust simply perfect.

Hawaiian Style, 1714 Kapiolani Blvd., open daily 9:30am–7pm, 941-7873