New & Noteworthy

New or Noteworthy 09-26-07

American

South Shore Grill

3114 Monsarrat Ave. (734-0229). Daily 11am-8pm. Sandwiches: $4.25-$5.75. Plates: $5.75-$7.95. Cash only.

Get fresh mahimahi in soft tacos, as an entree with the addictive Asian-style slaw or in a sandwich with chipotle-aioli sauce. The food may be fast, but it’s fresh–and all made from scratch.

Waldo’s Great Flying Pizza Co.

95-221 Kipapa Dr. Mililani (623-1923). Mon.-Thu. 11am-10pm, Fri. 11am-10pm food, 2am drinks, Sat. 11am-10:30pm, Sun. 11am-9:30pm. Pizzas: $9-$19.95 Sandwiches: $5.75-$6.50 AmEx, MC, V.

Ensconced in the cellar-like ambiance, order up an all-American pizza pie on homemade dough, slathered with traditional sauce and 17 toppings to choose from.

Young’s Fish Market LD

City Square Shopping Center, 1286 Kalani St. (841-4885). Mon.-Fri. 8am-5:30pm, Sat. 8am-4pm; Plates $6.25-$12.40; MC, V.

Let’s eat, lu’au style. Ample laulau are a perfect balance of lu’au leaves and pork. The Kalua pig, one of the best versions in town, retains traces of imu smoke and pairs perfectly with generous servings of fresh poi. There’s a lineup of other favorites, including chicken long rice and squid lu’au. An array of unadulterated poke may deflect your sweet tooth from the requisite block of haupia.

Chinese

Fook Lam Seafood Restaurant

Chinatown Cultural Plaza, 100 N. Beretania St. (523-9168). Daily 8am-3pm and 5-10pm. Dim sum from $1.90. MC, V.

The dim sum cart comes around more often than at the bigger dim sum palaces, and cheap prices mean your stomach can be as big as your eyes. Superior taro gok and shrimp gau, when hot out of the kitchen, are highlights. Augment your plate with a handful of filled look fun rolls and house specialty braised e-mein.

Legend Seafood

Chinatown Cultural Plaza, 100 N. Beretania St. at River St. (532-1868). Daily 10:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm. Dim sum: $2.85-$3.75 per plate.

Legend is Honolulu’s gold standard for dim sum. Nearly every dish is textbook perfect in preparation and freshness. Look fun stuffed with scallops melt in the mouth and minifootballs of fried mochi stuffed with dried shrimp and pork are irresistibly crisp and sticky-soft.

Italian

Cafe Sistina

1314 S. King St. between Pi’ikoi and Ke’eaumoku Sts. (596-0061). Mon.-Fri. 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9:30pm; Sat. & Sun. 5:30-9:30pm. Appetizers: $6-$12. Entrees: $9.25-$17.75. AmEx, MC, V.

This cornerstone of Honolulu Italian dining is the perfect place for a contemplative dinner for one. Order some hearty fresh-made pappardelle topped with venison-and-merlot ragu.

Vino

Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana Blvd., Diamond Head end (524-8466). Wed. & Thu. 4:30-9:30pm; Fri. 4:30-11pm; Sat. 7-11pm. Tasting plates: $7.95-$16.95. AmEx, Disc, JCB, MC, V.

In master sommelier Chuck Furuya’s domain, grapes are the main attraction, with the wine list dwarfing the abbreviated menu. Vino is a learning center, and Furuya is an enthusiastic teacher. The kitchen delivers savory dishes such as a revamped caprese salad, silky butternut squash and mushroom ravioli and rich osso buco.

Japanese & Okinawan

Tsukuneya Robata

1442 University Ave. (943-0390). Mon.-Sat. 4:30pm-midnight, Sun 4:30-11pm. Tsukune: $1.50-$2.50, AmEx, Disc, MC, V.

Tsukuneya’s name refers directly to its house specialty: tsukune, a mixture of minced chicken and yam, skewered and grilled over charcoal. The chain’s menu includes a page’s worth of variations on this dish, from a traditional, teriyaki-glazed staple to a spicy wasabi mayonnaise-drizzled variant. Don’t overlook the paitan nabe (a do-it-yourself chicken soup) and tofu offerings like natto and tofu-and-potato croquettes.

Utage

1286 Kalani St. (843-8109). Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm. $8.25-$14.50. MC, V.

Utage is a celebration of Okinawan food. You can’t go wrong with a chanpuru dish–a brothier stir-fry with eggplant, squash or bean sprouts with a choice of pork, chicken, Spam, bacon, tuna or shoyu pork. The mother of the uchinanchu menu is the shoyu pork.

Yakiniku Toraji

949 Kapahulu Ave. at Kaimuki Ave. (732-9996). Daily 5pm-1am. Dinners for two: $49.50, $69.50, $99.50. AmEx, MC, V.

This isn’t your Ojichan’s yaki-niku. At Toraji, the vegetables are crisp, the meats well-seasoned and menu well-thought-out–spelling a first-rate experience for cook-your-own enthusiasts.

Southeast Asian & Indian

Green Door Cafe

1145 Maunakea St., entrance on Pauahi St. between Maunakea and Smith Sts. (533-0606). Tue.-Sun. 11am-3pm, 5:30-8pm. Entrees: $5.75-$7. Cash only.

Betty Pang makes her take on Malaysian staples and Nyonya cooking–the cuisine that evolved when Chinese settled in Malacca. The dishes change daily–you might have pork loin one day and fried pomfret the next. The food is fragrant with spices and seasonings like coriander, ginger and galangal. Best bet: roti canai (flat bread) dipped in the rich, chicken curry.

Mekong I

1295 S. Beretania St (591-8841). Mon.-Fri. 11am-2pm, daily 5-9:30pm. Entrees: $8.95-$13.95. AmEx, Disc, JCB, MC, V.

Dine on superior renditions of menu standards like fried calamari and spring rolls. The sublime Garlic Shrimp, cooked in a sauce of pepper, garlic and coconut milk, warrants new synonyms for ‘rich.’ Slightly sweet, tangy shrimp pad thai is a beaming poster child for the one-wok meal. Another reason to anticipate mango season: the sticky rice with mangoes dessert.

Sweet Basil

1152A Maunakea St. between Pauahi and Beretania Sts. (545-5800). Mon.-Fri. 10:30am-2pm. Starters: $4-$7.95. Entrees: $7.50-$11.95. AmEx, MC, V.

A welcome addition to pho-rich Chinatown is Thai, with a lineup of familiar dishes done well with quality ingredients. A star of the menu is the short ribs braised in massaman curry–your spoon sinks into the long-simmered meat. Neighborhood office workers pour in for the all-you-can-eat buffet.

Just opened (too new to review)

Nihon Noodles

2065 S. King St. (944-6622). Mon.-Sat. 11am-3pm, 4pm-midnight.

Taking the place of Neo Nabe, this noodle house serves dishes garnished with bean sprouts, charsiu, menma, green onions and nori. All dishes are under $8, and you can add a mini curry with rice for only $2. Try the Nihon Noodle Special for groups of 4 or more–shoyu, miso, and pork broths with three types of traditional noodle.

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Breaking The Waves

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Greedy, Scheming Saga

Into Willie Sabel’s vast and detailed set enter a cast of rippled sweatshirts and oversized shoulder-pads, thanks to Dusty Behner’s sense of color and history, and Lisa Ponce de Leon’s especially-80s hairstyles. A few of the bunch even manage to hold-their-own against the largeness that is the setting of Dividing the Estate, the newest show to hit Manoa Valley Theatre.

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Editor’s Note

Everything’s coming up mangoes. And last week, we joined the crowd at Foster Botanical Garden to witness the first-ever Honolulu blossoming of Amorphophallus titanium, nicknamed the “Corpse Flower” for its malodorous, fly-catching bouquet.

he’s official

Through the years there have been many mayors who’ve aspired to be governor, but for the first time in Honolulu ’s history, a former governor is running for mayor. At Honolulu Hale on Friday, May 18, as he signed the nomination paperwork making him an official candidate for the 2012 race, Cayetano told the room that, back in January, he made his decision quickly.

Rail suit hangs on

Important back stories are huddled behind last week’s Star-Advertiser headline, “Federal Judge Narrows Lawsuit on Rail.” Foremost is that the lawsuit will go forward unimpeded. The same substantive points of contention including the most important historic and cultural sites are still at issue.

wed lockdown

In announcing his support of same-sex marriage two weeks ago, President Barack Obama reinvigorated a vexed debate. Locally, the wrangle has been deadlocked following the contentious legalization of civil unions and subsequent federal court challenge in January.

outsourced LEI

Thailand grows 75 percent of the flowers used in Hawaiian-made lei, but a flooding in the country last fall destroyed 80 percent of its orchid crops, according to Summer Campos, co-founder of the Hawaiian Lei Company. Together with the graduation season and the growing popularity of lei on the mainland, “All lei prices have inflated due to the orchid shortage,” Campos says.

Bus cuts

Lynne Matusow’s letter [“Goodbye Bus, Hello Rail?” May 16] hit the nail right smack dab on the head. The rail may have its attributes but it seems the more we delve into it the bad seem to outweigh the good.

Second “city”

We have a problem with traffic congestion on the major highways leading into the city; we have the controversy over the issue of rail; and we have the concern over preserving prime agricultural lands. It would seem to me that all these issues point to one thing in one way or another and that is the development of a second city in Kapolei.

Traffic mess

Though you didn’t discuss it in the most recent issue, there was a brief mention of how long it took for the Kinau off-ramp to be completed. Ambulances [had] ALWAYS been able to take the exit BEFORE Kinau, and turn left directly into the Emergency Room.

More politics

I enjoyed your issue on Mayoral Candidate Peter Carlisle. It would be great if you did a series on those running for the two congressional seats and the Senate race.

Ads not edit

On [April 26] the Weekly [ran] a story damning Hoopili as you have been for quite some time. Then you are running a full-page promotional ad this week?

Editors’ Reply:

It’s important to understand the difference between editorial content and ads. At the Weekly, they are two completely separate departments.

Corrections

We retract the letter “Questionable Ethics?” [May 9] and apologize to Herb Barboza for its inaccuracies. Mr.