New or Noteworthy

American

New Uptown Fountain

522 N. School St. (537-1881) Mon.-Sat. 6:15am-1pm, Sun. 7am-1pm, nothing more than $7.50 on the menu, cash only.

Here is one eatery that is refreshing in its unpretentious identity, slightly more modern than other local cafes and yet knows that the appeal of a home-style meal is timeless. Recommended: loco moco, burgers and saimin.

Nico’s Pier 38 Restaurant

1133 N. Nimitz Hwy. at Pier 38 (540-1377). Mon.-Fri. 6:30am-6pm, Sat. 6:30am-2:30pm. Dishes $6.25-$10. AmEx, MC, V.

Nico brings a high-end angle to the lowbrow plate lunch. In addition to breakfast features like sweetbread French toast and lunch faves such as beef stew and fried calamari salad, Nico’s serves furikake-crusted ahi and ginger-garlic cilantro dip with nalo greens.

Ola

57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku (293-0801), 11am-3pm & 5-9pm, Entrees: $16.95-$37.95. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.

In addition to regional standards like grilled ahi and miso butterfish, expect creative twists on Hawaiian favorites like the Kalua Pork and Goat Cheese Nachos. The Steamed Clams with a splendid roasted garlic white wine broth is exceptional. The restaurant gives a valiant nod to the local clientele, using area produce like Kahuku corn.

European

Chef’s Table

Hawai’i Kai Towne Center, 366 Keahole St. (394-2433). Tue.-Sun. 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-9pm. Appetizers: $6-$9. Entrees: $16.50-$22. MC, V.

Mitteleuropaosche flavors are to be had in the form of the obligatory spatzle, red cabbage, wiener schnitzel and paprika-red goulash, along with a Swiss cheese fondu. The delicate superflaky apple strudel will knock your lederhosen off.

Downtown @ the HiSaM

250 Hotel St. (536-5900). Mon.-Fri. 7-11am; Mon.-Sat. 11am-2pm. Food: $4-$16. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.

Chef Ed Kenney does it again with this Mediterranean-style lunch spot. The lamb lasagna and Wingnut’s Super-Sized Salad make breaking for lunch the smartest thing you’ve done all the day.

Du Vin

1115 Bethel St. (545-1115). Daily 11am-closing. Food: $4-$16. AmEx, DC, Disc, JCB, MC, V.

Sample vin, vino or wine from the expansive wine list to go with a cloudlike, supple brie baked in puff pastry, oysters Rockefeller or the chalkboard’s daily specials.

Japanese & Okinawan

Banzai Sushi Bar

North Shore Marketplace, 66-246B Kamehameha Hwy., behind Patagonia (637-4404). Tue.-Sun. 5-10pm. Appetizers: $3-$12.50. Sushi & sashimi dinner: $18.75. AmEx, MC, V.

You get standard sushi with a Brazilian twist at Banzai Sushi Bar. Take a seat (on a chair or on a pillow) on the big wood lanai. Tuck into citrusy ceviche, nigiri sushi and maki as crickets and geckos serenade you.

Gazen

2840 Kapi’olani Blvd. across from Market City (737-0230). Daily 5-11:45pm. $2.75-$15.95. Disc, JCB, MC, V.

Innovative izakaya and teppan dishes in a refined setting will satisfy all your omnivorous whims. Notables from the two-page tofu menu include tofu in soy milk broth and tofu mochi ‘agedashi style.’ The innovative cocktail and dessert selections stretch the borders beyond sake and ice cream to include concoctions like sweet potato mochi with Earl Grey Sauce.

Kyoto Ohsho

Ala Moana Center, Ho’okipa Terrace (949-0040) Mon.-Sat. 11:30am-9pm, Sun. 11:30am-7pm, $20 lunch, $40 dinner, AmEx, MC, V.

Ala Moana’s Japanese all-you-can-eat-buffet on the Ho’okipa Terrace serving traditional selections like miso soup to local favorites like teriyaki salmon. Recommended are the shrimp tempura, shabu shabu and sushi.

Korean

Choon Chun Chicken B.B.Q.

1269 King St. at Birch St. (593-4499). Daily 11am-2am daily. Entrees: $8.95-$32.95. AmEx, MC, V.

The restaurant wants to turn you on to dak kalbi, a Korean stir fry originally from the Choon Chun area of Seoul. It’s a cook-at-the-table one-pot dish that can feed four. What you get is a mountain of raw chicken, carrots, onion, cabbage, sesame leaves, sweet potato, chili paste and rice cakes. The gas is turned on and the server tosses the ingredients together. Also tops is the spicy buckwheat noodle salad.

Mary Jane’s Kitchen

1694C Kalakaua Ave. at Fern St. (943-2109). Mon.-Fri., Sun. 9am-9pm. Entrees: $6-$12.50. Cash only.

You get unadulterated Korean home cooking at this humble fluorescent-lit box on Kalakaua’s budding K-strip. Jane Shim creates MSG-free, flavorful food and her daughter Ellen is your ebullient host. A must-order is the dol sot bi bim bap, an earthily savory DIY fried rice.

Middle Eastern

Da Spot

1908 Pumehana St. between Waiola and Algaroba Sts. (941-1313). Mon.-Sat. 10am-9:30pm. Plate lunch: $6.50. Smoothies: $2.75-$3.75. Cash only.

Ahmed Ramadan and Ako Kifuji serve a lot of love along with their cheap, good food–the best of it Middle Eastern dishes based on recipes from Ramadan’s Egyptian family. Sauteed lamb with vegetables is a rich, red stew heady with cardomom and cinnamon.

Dat One Persian Restaurant

801 Alakea St. (791-1616). Mon.-Fri. 10am-2pm. Plate lunch: $6.50, $7.50, cash only.

A point-and-pick eatery that serves up traditional Persian fare rich with cinnamon, lime parsley, turmeric and dill.

Good & Healthy Cafe

212 Merchant St. (566-6365). Mon.-Fri. 10:30am-5pm, Sat. 10:30am-2pm, Sandwiches and salads $5.75-$6.50, plates $6.75-$7.95. MC, V.

Don’t expect belly dancers or elaborate oriental rugs at this cafe; the simple, fresh fare be the centerpiece. The refreshing nature of Lebanese cuisine–heavy on the cool crisp salads, bite-sized hors d’oeuvres and kebabs–makes it suited for Hawai’i’s sunny climate. The hummus is smooth, pungent and satisfying.

Just opened (too new to review)

Nihon Noodles

2065 S. King St. (944-6622). Mon.-Sat. 11am-3pm, 4pm-midnight.

Taking the place of Neo Nabe, this noodle house serves dishes garnished with bean sprouts, charsiu, menma, green onions and nori. All dishes are under $8, and you can add a mini curry with rice for only $2. Try the Nihon Noodle Special for groups of 4 or more–shoyu, miso, and pork broths with three types of traditional noodle.