New or Noteworthy 9-3-2008
American
Bob’s B-B-Q
1366 Dillingham Blvd. (842-3663) Daily 6am–10pm. Entrees: $2.50–$13.25. MC, V.The prices here are easy on the pocketbook–you can order a burger and fries for under $6 and walk away full. But cheap fare aside, the food that comes out of the walk-up kitchen is stick-to-your-ribs good food. The portions are big, the food is fresh and there’s something for everyone. Bob’s will even give you a breakfast better than most restaurants in town. Don’t visit Bob’s for ambience–eat here because you like good food with a semi-Southern flair. Eat here because you’re hungry.
Downtown
Hawai’i State Art Museum, 250 S. Hotel St. (536-5900) Mon–Sat 11am–2pm. Entrees: $9.50–$14.95. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.The bright and spare cafeteria-like eatery on the ground floor of the Hawai’i State Art Museum is the most necessary addition to the downtown lunch-scape. It promises fresh, locally grown, no-frills fare, and it delivers. Quiches, antipasti and panini are the building blocks for ultra-fresh plate lunches that come served to go in earth-friendly take-out containers that are guaranteed to break down naturally within 80 days. Talk about guilt-free eating–not only are you satisfying your hunger with bright orange-carrot hummus, you’re supporting a movement to save the Earth. Who knew you were so aware?
Hank’s Haute Dogs
324 Coral Ave., (532-4265) Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm. Cash only.We’re talking good, solid, all-beef franks that are no more harmful than your hoity-toity slices of say, mortadella. The menu is all hot dogs, with a few sides like French fries (bistro-thin and twice-cooked to perfection) and onion rings, made with sweet Maui onions. His classic dog (the Chicago) anchors the menu, and is made with Vienna brand all-beef franks. Gourmet dogs run the gamut from meat-on-meat to no meat at all (”No Dog,” an all-veggie sandwich).
Kona Brewing Company
7192 Kalania’ole Hwy. (394-5662) Sun–Thu 11am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11am-10pm. Entrees: $13–$19. AmEx, Disc, MC, VStick around for dessert and your faith in beer as an ingredient might be renewed. The desserts–beer-infused offerings such as mango bread pudding with pale ale caramel sauce and Tahitian vanilla bean ice-cream with Black Sand Porter sauce–do a much better job of showcasing the beers and what they can do for food. When it comes to locally made brews, there’s really no competition. Add to those hand-tossed pizzas and there’s all the reason you need to choose Kona Brewing Company over Outback.
Italian
Baci Bistro
30 Aulike St., Kailua (262-7555) Lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm, Dinner Nightly 5:30pm–10pm. Entrees: $13.95–$26. AmEx, MC, V.Don’t leave without trying the tiramisu. Where most places take on the traditional dolci as an Italian version of the Midwestern trifle, Baci treats it right: Each layer separate, but all coming together perfectly on the fork. The ladyfingers are moist, not wet; the mascarpone layer is light, not cheesecake-like; the amaretto is complimentary, not erpowering. The answer is simple: When in Kailua, eat at Baci Bistro.
Buon Amici Ristorante
3605 Wai’alae Ave. Tue–Sun 5pm–9pm. Entrees: $20–$40. AmEx, MC, V.Buon Amici has retained the tradition of making fresh pasta. The wide sashes of pasta danced between firmness and the slightest tenderness, a feat that only the freshest cooked al dente can achieve. When tossed with herbed Italian sausage, salty bits of pancetta and sweet strips of caramelized onions then bathed in a tomato sauce further richened by both wine and cream. Entrees include costoletta d’aggnello, grilled Australian lamb chops so tender that they’re worth smuggling across town to Wai’alae Avenue and salmon aneto, Atlantic salmon cooked in anise flowers, bay leaves, shallots and cream.
Japanese & Okinawan
Kyoto Ohsho
Ala Moana Center Ho’okipa Terrace (949-0040) Daily 11:30am–10pm. Entrees: $11.50–$13.50.The new sit-down-and-order dining format is not a bad thing. The teishokus (set meals) are very affordable. The grilled misoyaki butterfish is tender, sweet and juicy, just like grandma used to make. More options for teishokus include hamburger steak, grilled yellow tail kama, chicken cutlet, beef teriyaki, sweet & sour pork, the giggle-inducing grilled horse mackerel and other favorites. All come with miso soup, assorted vegetables and chawanmushi–egg custard steamed in a cup. Expect friendly service and the frequent bussing of superfluous plates.
Matsugen
255 Beach Walk (926-0255) Daily, 11:30am-1:45pm, 5-9:30pm. Entrees: $7.80–$35.50. AmEx, DC, MC, JCB, V.The handwritten, photocopied menu reflects the artisan allure of hand-crafted soba. The fresh soba noodles are perhaps best enjoyed mori style, served simply boiled and chilled and reverently laid atop a lacquer tray alongside a carafe of tsuyu dipping sauce to pour into a broader dipping dish along with a clump of fresh wasabi and sliced scallion whites. There are izaka-style appetizers whose origins are primarily confined to the maw of sea creatures. There’s no sushi here, but you can get assorted seasonal sashimi and traditional “Edo” style poke.
Southeast Asian & Indian
Bombay Indian Restaurant
Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (942-3990) 5–10pm. Entrees: $9.95–$21.95. JCB, MC, V.One of the highlights of Indian cuisine is its wonderful treatment of vegetables, and I was thrilled to see my favorite dish on the menu: Baingan bhartha, baked and mashed eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. The popular veggie standards are here also: Palak paneer, chana masala and dal makhni, plus lesser-known variations like bhindi masala made with okra. While some Indian desserts can be either excessively floral or clunky, the ones at Bombay are subtle and mostly pleasant.
Madras Cafe
2320 South King St. Suite B4. (949-4840) Mon–Thu, 11am–3pm. Entrees: $6.95–$7.95.Madras is just about your only choice for fast, cafe style Indian food at lunch time. While ingredients change daily, the food tastes home-cooked instead of “restaurant food.” The dishes are thoughtful, well-balanced and consistent–they will satisfy your hankering for Indian food without sending you back to work exuding clouds of curry. The service is friendly and fast with enough variation in the menu to make Madras Cafe a weekly lunch spot. Heavily recommended are the wheat parathas and the chicken combo.
Opal Thai Food
Across from McDonald’s, Kamehameha Hwy. Hale’iwa (381-8091) Wed–Sun, 11am–6pm. Entrees: $6.50–$7.95. Cash only.Diners who devour not Kahuku shrimp but satay and fried rice have come to Opal Thai Food for the cooking of Opel and Aoy Sirichandrha. Originally from Thailand, they are now united on the North Shore with a shared dream: To serve simple, good, honest food. What may be the best things on the menu aren’t cooked at all. The popular green papaya salad is seasoned with an authentically pounded tincture of lime juice, fresh garlic and tomato.
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