New or Noteworthy 11-12-2008
Italian
Baci Bistro
Don’t leave without trying the tiramisu. Where most places take on the traditional dolci as an Italian version of the Midwestern trifle, Baci treats it right: Each layer separate, but all coming together perfectly on the fork. The ladyfingers are moist, not wet; the mascarpone layer is light, not cheesecake-like; the amaretto is complimentary, not overpowering. The answer is simple: When in Kailua, eat at Baci Bistro.
30 Aulike St., Kailua (262-7555). Lunch Mon.–Fri. 11:30am–2pm, Dinner Nightly 5:30pm–10pm. Entree: From $13.95–$26. AmEx, MC, V.
Buon Amici Ristorante
Buon Amici has retained the tradition of making fresh pasta. The wide sashes of pasta danced between firmness and the slightest tenderness, a feat that only the freshest cooked al dente can achieve. When tossed with herbed Italian sausage, salty bits of pancetta and sweet strips of caramelized onions then bathed in a tomato sauce further richened by both wine and cream. Entrees include costoletta d’aggnello, grilled Australian lamb chops so tender that they’re worth smuggling across town to Wai’alae Avenue and salmon aneto, Atlantic salmon cooked in anise flowers, bay leaves, shallots and cream.
3605 Wai’alae Ave. (732-5999). Tue.–Sun. 5pm–9pm. Entrees: From $20.50. AmEx, MC, V.
Pasta Basta by Donato’s
Pasta Basta does brisk business for the lunch crowds that come pouring out of neighboring office towers around noon, and while ordering at the counter may seem unglamorous, it’s a smart way for the restaurant to maximize its lunch service. Handmade pizzas come straight from the oven, including spicy shrimp, margherita, napoletana and grilled chicken-portobello versions. If you like fresh pasta but want a simpler dish, there’s fresh spinach fettucine with Bolognese sauce, linguine with basil pesto or cappellini with sauteed mushrooms, fresh tomatoes and garlic.
Restaurant Row, (523-9999). Lunch Mon.–Fri. 11am–2:30pm, Dinner Tue.–Sat. 5–9:30pm. Entrees: $9–$15. MC, V.
Taormina Sicilian Cuisine
With its reasonable prices, wistful outside environment and distinctive yet hearty food, this Japanese-infused restaurant is worthy of becoming a local date night institution. The candle-lit, romantic outdoor tables provide the environment for an affordable date in a chic environment. The uni (sea urchin) pasta is the perfect meal for the daring diner–however, it sells out quickly so be sure to request it when making dinner reservations! Although the menu items can be eclectic, Taormina also offers more traditional fare such as the Bucatini “Fresh Sardine”, bucatini (thick spaghetti) with fresh Japanese sardine fillets, garlic, saffron, pine nuts, tossed lightly in olive oil.
227 Lewers Street, R100 (926-5050). Sun.–Thurs., 11am–10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am–11pm, Entrees: $12-$32.
Korean
Kum Chee Korean Buffet
This family restaurant offers native Korean dishes and local style Korean dishes that are equally delicious. The lunch buffet offers an assortment of typical local Korean fare, including: L A kalbi, fish jun, fried mandoo and an assortment of side dishes. The dinner buffet offers additional items, including: big bone kalbi, shrimp tempura, ahi poke and teriyaki chicken. Kum Chee’s kalbi is a standout–sweet, juicy and tender like no other in town. The atmosphere is friendly, the service is prompt and the buffet trays are always quickly replenished.
98-1247 Ka’ahumanu St. #101, #102. (488-0315). Tue.–Sat. 10:30am–9pm, Sun.–Mon. 11am–9pm. Lunch: $11.95, Dinner: $17.95.
Mexican
Mexico Restaurant
The menu is mostly familiar (platters anchored by rice and beans and crested with sour cream and guacamole) with a few local touches (kalua pig enchiladas and quesadillas) and a scattering of surprises (crab chimichanga and scallop tacos). Best among the appetizers are the sizzling shrimp platters featuring large, shell-on but de-veined shrimp. Portions are generally large, but if you’ve got room, desserts (also more quantity than quality) include flan, churros with ice cream, a massive ball of fried ice cream and an interesting riff on the banana split.
1247 N. School St. (845-9059). Mon.–Thu. & Sun.10:30am–9pm. Fri.–Sat. 10am–10pm. Entrees: $6.50–$16.95. MC, V.
La Familia
Nachos and salsa are served first and are satisfyingly spicy with monster chunks of onions for your chip. The serving dish is a bit small, making requests for seconds a necessity. The brilliance comes with the entrees. The fajitas include a choice of beef or chicken, with the chicken sizzling on an iron skillet with large slices of green peppers and onions. Combo plates are available for those who want to try more things. The tamales are concocted with a moist and pleasantly sweet corn meal, while the green tortilla-shredded beef enchiladas were luscious with more of that wonderful green sauce. All entree plates are served with Mexican rice, salad and refried beans. It’s almost like having an amazing home-cooked meal in someone’s kitchen.
94-226 Leoku St., Waipahu. (671-8776). Mon., Wed., Thu., Sun. 11am–10pm. Fri.-Sat. 11am–10pm. Entrees: $9.99-$14.99
Middle Eastern & Greek
The Fat Greek
While the food isn’t startlingly original, the atmosphere and patrons give the place a certain collegiate, white-collar appeal. The soundtrack of the establishment is a firm mix of upbeat tunes from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. The prices at this place really can’t be beat. Once the bourgeoisie onslaught diminishes, The Fat Greek will probably become a favorite for starving dorm students who no longer feel like heating up a Cup o’ Noodle.
3040 Wai’alae Ave. (734-0404)Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. Entree: From $7-$19.95.
Southeast Asian & Indian
Bombay Indian Restaurant
One of the highlights of Indian cuisine is its wonderful treatment of vegetables, and I was thrilled to see my favorite dish on the menu: Baingan bhartha, baked and mashed eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. The popular veggie standards are here also: Palak paneer, chana masala and dal makhni, plus lesser-known variations like bhindi masala made with okra.
Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (942-3990). 5–10pm. Entrees: $9.95–$21.95. JCB, MC, V.
India Cafe
India Cafe, a small, homey restaurant in Kilohana Square, serves up some of the best curry-and-roti combos in town in a cozy, laid-back atmosphere. The menu is basic but varied, with six different chutneys, 11 types of bread and enough variations of curry to turn anyone’s head. It is vegetarian-friendly, with as many vegetable sambals and masalas as there are meat offerings. Of special note is the okra vegetable curry, a delicate, mild dish–the soft okra leaves room for the spices to stand out, creating a wonderfully complex mixture that starts out with a bite and goes down smooth. Spicy but not scorching, stop by India Cafe after your next Bollywood marathon and satisfy your craving for cayenne, tamarind and cinnamon.
1016 Kapahulu Ave. (737-4600). Lunch: Fri.-Sun. 11am–2:30pm, Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5pm–9pm. Fri.–Sat., 5pm–9:30pm. Entrees: $7.95–$16.95. MC, V.
Madras Cafe
Madras is just about your only choice for fast, cafe style Indian food at lunchtime. While ingredients change daily, the food tastes home-cooked instead of “restaurant food.” The dishes are thoughtful, well-balanced and consistent–they will satisfy your hankering for Indian food without sending you back to work exuding clouds of curry. The service is friendly and fast with enough variation in the menu to make Madras Cafe a weekly lunch spot.
2320 South King St. Suite B4. (949-4840). Mon.–Thurs., 11am–3pm. Entrees: $6.95–$7.95.
Opal Thai Food
Diners who devour not Kahuku shrimp but satay and fried rice have come to Opal Thai Food for the cooking of Opel and Aoy Sirichandrha. Originally from Thailand, they are now united on the North Shore with a shared dream: To serve simple, good, honest food. The popular green papaya salad is seasoned with an authentically pounded tincture of limejuice, fresh garlic and tomato.
Across from McDonald’s, Kamehameha Hwy. Hale’iwa (381-8091). Wed.-Sun., 11am-6pm. Entrees: $6.50-$7.95. Cash only.
Pho Minh Thu
The promise of hot, healthy pho helps to offset the lackluster ambience here, as does the swift and attentive, if hurried, service. The pho is a watery beef-based broth slow-cooked with hefty doses of Saigon-Cinnamon, star anise and ginger. Pho is the saving grace at Pho Minh Thu, standing alone as a lone exemplar of the soul of the Vietnamese kitchen. Pho is also a testament to the many threads of influence in Vietnamese cuisine, the noodles-in-soup being a distinctively Chinese gastronomic desire.
478 ‘Ena Rd., Waikiki (946-2299). Daily, 10am-9pm. Entrees: $7-$8.50.
Pho Viet
Pho Viet’s store window displays a sign, which reads “best soup in town.” They are not kidding. All pho houses use the same ingredients, but Pho Viet does it better. The combination of the sensuous rice noodles, different beef cuts (each with a unique texture and flavor), broth and condiments draws out different arrays o flavors with each chew. Apart from the pho, the menu mostly caters to standard local tastes in Vietnamese cuisine. With 66 delicious dishes on the menu, Pho Viet offers both good food and good service.
99-163 Moanalua Rd., (486-7688). Tue.-Sun., 10am-9pm. Entrees: $7-$8.50. MC, V.
