New & Noteworthy

New or Noteworthy 12-3-2008

Chinese

Aloha Bistro

Along with the chopsticks and handle-less tea mugs, the restaurant offers few entrees over $20 and excellent service. The bus boy will zip over and exchange a half-full teapot for a fresh one, just to ensure piping hot tea throughout your meal. Presentation figures big into the bistro’s specialty dishes, the Seafood Taro Bowl: a medley of fish, squid and vegetables which comes in a delicate bowl of violet taro that soaks up the garlic sauce as you eat. Chinese tourists and islanders alike can find something familiar and comforting at Aloha Bistro: Good food, good prices and a staff that shouts in Cantonese.

444 Kanekaplei St. (926-8288). Mon.–Sun. Lunch:11am–2:30pm, Dinner: 5pm–9:30pm, Entree: From $12.95–$19.95. Disc, JCB, MC, V.

Filipino

Marilou’s Restaurant & Catering

The allure of traditional Filipino cooking lies in the braising of meats slow-cooked for several hours to release the flavors. Each lunch/dinner combo comes with 4 items of your choice–pinapaitan, pinakbet (a soup with long green beans, few pieces of lechon-crispy fried pork, bitter melon, eggplant and tomatoes), dinguanan, pork guisantes, pork adobo, mungo beans or pork menudo. All items on the combo plates are savory. Banana lumpia and halo halo for dessert. Marilou’s is the place to go for a real comforting home-cooked Filipino meal.

70 Kukui St. (621-1196). Mon.–Sat. 9am–9pm. Sun. 9am–3pm, Entree: From $7.35-$9.50.

French

JJ’s Bistro & French Pastry

The food is so eclectic and the flavors so harmonious, that JJ’s transcends such labels as “French-Laotian” or “Eurasian.” There are two fixed menus offering soup, appetizer, entree and dessert. One such entree is the Fisherman’s pot pie with a dense, flaky crust that cradles a rich concoction of shrimp, scallops, salmon, zucchini and bamboo shoots, all drenched in a buttery cream sauce. The pastry display boasts a variety of desserts, including the famous chocolate pyramid, lemon honey cake, plum tarts and frou frou au chocolate. JJ’s provides world class cuisine in a chic setting at very reasonable prices.

3447 Wai’alae Ave. (739-0993). Mon.–Sat. 9am–9pm. Sun. noon –9pm, Entree: From $19.95-$24.95. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.

Middle Eastern & Greek

The Fat Greek

While the food isn’t startlingly original, the atmosphere and patrons give the place a certain collegiate, white-collar appeal. The soundtrack of the establishment is a firm mix of upbeat tunes from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. The prices at this place really can’t be beat. Once the bourgeoisie onslaught diminishes, The Fat Greek will probably become a favorite for starving dorm students who no longer feel like heating up a Cup o’ Noodle.

3040 Wai’alae Ave. (734-0404) Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. Entree: From $7-$19.95.

Southeast Asian & Indian

Bombay Indian Restaurant

One of the highlights of Indian cuisine is its wonderful treatment of vegetables, and I was thrilled to see my favorite dish on the menu: Baingan bhartha, baked and mashed eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. The popular veggie standards are here also: Palak paneer, chana masala and dal makhni, plus lesser-known variations like bhindi masala made with okra. While some Indian desserts can be either excessively floral or clunky, the ones at Bombay are subtle and mostly pleasant.

Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (942-3990). 5–10pm. Entrees: $9.95–$21.95. JCB, MC, V.

India Cafe

India Cafe, a small, homey restaurant in Kilohana Square, serves up some of the best curry-and-roti combos in town in a cozy, laid-back atmosphere. The menu is basic but varied, with six different chutneys, 11 types of bread and enough variations of curry to turn anyone’s head. It is vegetarian-friendly, with as many vegetable sambals and masalas as there are meat offerings. Of special note is the okra vegetable curry, a delicate, mild dish–the soft okra leaves room for the spices to stand out, creating a wonderfully complex mixture that starts out with a bite and goes down smooth. Spicy but not scorching, stop by India Cafe after your next Bollywood marathon and satisfy your craving for cayenne, tamarind and cinnamon.

1016 Kapahulu Ave. (737-4600). Lunch: Fri.-Sun. 11am–2:30pm, Dinner: Sun.–Thurs., 5pm–9pm. Fri.–Sat., 5pm–9:30pm. Entrees: $7.95–$16.95. MC, V.

Madras Cafe

Madras is just about your only choice for fast, cafe style Indian food at lunchtime. While ingredients change daily, the food tastes home-cooked instead of “restaurant food.” The dishes are thoughtful, well-balanced and consistent–they will satisfy your hankering for Indian food without sending you back to work exuding clouds of curry. The service is friendly and fast with enough variation in the menu to make Madras Cafe a weekly lunch spot.

2320 South King St. Suite B4. (949-4840). Mon.–Thurs., 11am–3pm. Entrees: $6.95–$7.95.

Opal Thai Food

Diners who devour not Kahuku shrimp but satay and fried rice have come to Opal Thai Food for the cooking of Opel and Aoy Sirichandrha. Originally from Thailand, they are now united on the North Shore with a shared dream: To serve simple, good, honest food. What may be the best things on the menu aren’t cooked at all. The popular green papaya salad is seasoned with an authentically pounded tincture of limejuice, fresh garlic and tomato.

Across from McDonald’s, Kamehameha Hwy. Hale’iwa (381-8091). Wed.-Sun., 11am-6pm. Entrees: $6.50-$7.95. Cash only.

Pho Minh Thu

The promise of hot, healthy pho helps to offset the lackluster ambience here, as does the swift and attentive, if hurried, service. The pho is a watery beef-based broth slow-cooked with hefty doses of Saigon-Cinnamon, star anise and ginger. Pho is the saving grace at Pho Minh Thu, standing alone as a lone exemplar of the soul of the Vietnamese kitchen. Pho is also a testament to the many threads of influence in Vietnamese cuisine, the noodles-in-soup being a distinctively Chinese gastronomic desire.

478 ‘Ena Rd., Waikk (946-2299). Daily, 10am-9pm. Entrees: $7-$8.50.
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