New or Noteworthy 12-31-2008
Korean
Kum Chee Korean Buffet
This family restaurant offers native Korean dishes and local style Korean dishes that are equally delicious. The lunch buffet offers an assortment of typical local Korean fare, including la kalbi, fish jun, fried mandoo and an assortment of side dishes. The dinner buffet offers additional items, including big bone kalbi, shrimp tempura, ‘ahi poke and teriyaki chicken. Kum Chee’s kalbi is a standout–sweet, juicy and tender like no other in town. The atmosphere is friendly, the service is prompt and the buffet trays are always quickly replenished.
98-1247 Ka’ahumanu St. #101, #102. (488-0315). Tue–Sat 10:30am–9pm, Sun–Mon 11am–9pm. Lunch: $11.95, Dinner: $17.95.Mexican
Mexico Restaurant
The menu is mostly familiar (platters anchored by rice and beans and crested with sour cream and guacamole) with a few local touches (kalua pig enchiladas and quesadillas) and a scattering of surprises (crab chimichanga and scallop tacos). Best among the appetizers are the sizzling shrimp platters featuring large, shell-on but de-veined shrimp. Portions are generally large, but if you’ve got room, desserts (also more quantity than quality) include flan, churros with ice cream, a massive ball of fried ice cream and an interesting riff on the banana split.
1247 N. School St. (845-9059). Mon–Thu & Sun 10:30am–9pm. Fri–Sat 10am–10pm. Entrees: $6.50–$16.95. MC, V.La Familia
Nachos and salsa are served first and are satisfyingly spicy with monster chunks of onions for your chip. The serving dish is a bit small, making requests for seconds a necessity. The brilliance comes with the entrees. The fajitas include a choice of beef or chicken, with the chicken sizzling on an iron skillet with large slices of green peppers and onions. Combo plates are available for those who want to try more things. The tamales are concocted with a moist and pleasantly sweet corn meal, while the green tortilla-shredded beef enchiladas were luscious with more of that wonderful green sauce. All entree plates are served with Mexican rice, salad and refried beans. It’s almost like having an amazing home-cooked meal in someone’s kitchen.
94-226 Leoku St., Waipahu. (671-8776). Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun 11am–10pm. Fri–Sat 11am–10pm. Entrees: $9.99-$14.99Middle Eastern & Greek
The Fat Greek
While the food isn’t startlingly original, the atmosphere and patrons give the place a certain collegiate, white-collar appeal. The soundtrack of the establishment is a firm mix of upbeat tunes from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. The prices at this place really can’t be beat. Once the bourgeoisie onslaught diminishes, The Fat Greek will probably become a favorite for starving dorm students who no longer feel like heating up a Cup o’ Noodle.
3040 Wai’alae Ave. (734-0404). Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. Entrees: $7–$19.95.Southeast Asian & Indian
Bombay Indian Restaurant
One of the highlights of Indian cuisine is its wonderful treatment of vegetables, and I was thrilled to see my favorite dish on the menu: Baingan bhartha, baked and mashed eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. The popular veggie standards are here also: Palak paneer, chana masala and dal makhni, plus lesser-known variations like bhindi masala made with okra. While some Indian desserts can be either excessively floral or clunky, the ones at Bombay are subtle and mostly pleasant.
Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (942-3990). 5–10pm. Entrees: $9.95–$21.95. JCB, MC, V.India Cafe
India Cafe, a small, homey restaurant in Kilohana Square, serves up some of the best curry-and-roti combos in town in a cozy, laid-back atmosphere. The menu is basic but varied, with six different chutneys, 11 types of bread and enough variations of curry to turn anyone’s head. It is vegetarian-friendly, with as many vegetable sambals and masalas as there are meat offerings. Of special note is the okra vegetable curry, a delicate, mild dish–the soft okra leaves room for the spices to stand out, creating a wonderfully complex mixture that starts out with a bite and goes down smooth. Spicy but not scorching, stop by India Cafe after your next Bollywood marathon and satisfy your craving for cayenne, tamarind and cinnamon.
1016 Kapahulu Ave. (737-4600). Lunch: Fri.–Sun. 11am–2:30pm, Dinner: Sun–Thu, 5pm–9pm. Fri–Sat, 5pm–9:30pm. Entrees: $7.95–$16.95. MC, V.Madras Cafe
Madras is just about your only choice for fast, cafe style Indian food at lunchtime. While ingredients change daily, the food tastes home-cooked instead of “restaurant food.” The dishes are thoughtful, well-balanced and consistent–they will satisfy your hankering for Indian food without sending you back to work exuding clouds of curry. The service is friendly and fast with enough variation in the menu to make Madras Cafe a weekly lunch spot.
2320 South King St. Suite B4. (949-4840). Mon–Thu, 11am–3pm. Entrees: $6.95–$7.95.Opal Thai Food
Diners who devour not Kahuku shrimp but satay and fried rice have come to Opal Thai Food for the cooking of Opel and Aoy Sirichandrha. Originally from Thailand, they are now united on the North Shore with a shared dream: To serve simple, good, honest food. What may be the best things on the menu aren’t cooked at all. The popular green papaya salad is seasoned with an authentically pounded tincture of lime juice, fresh garlic and tomato.
Across from McDonald’s, Kamehameha Hwy. Hale’iwa (381-8091). Wed–Sun, 11am–6pm. Entrees: $6.50–$7.95. Cash only.
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