New & Noteworthy

New or Noteworthy 1-21-2009



Mexican

Mexico Restaurant

The menu is mostly familiar (platters anchored by rice and beans and crested with sour cream and guacamole) with a few local touches (kalua pig enchiladas and quesadillas) and a scattering of surprises (crab chimichanga and scallop tacos). Best among the appetizers are the sizzling shrimp platters featuring large, shell-on but de-veined shrimp. Portions are generally large, but if you’ve got room, desserts (also more quantity than quality) include flan, churros with ice cream, a massive ball of fried ice cream and an interesting riff on the banana split.

1247 N. School St. (845-9059). Mon–Thu & Sun 10:30am–9pm. Fri–Sat 10am–10pm. Entrees: $6.50–$16.95. MC, V.

La Familia

Nachos and salsa are served first and are satisfyingly spicy with monster chunks of onions for your chip. The serving dish is a bit small, making requests for seconds a necessity. The brilliance comes with the entrees. The fajitas include a choice of beef or chicken, with the chicken sizzling on an iron skillet with large slices of green peppers and onions. The tamales are concocted with a moist and pleasantly sweet corn meal, while the green tortilla-shredded beef enchiladas were luscious with more of that wonderful green sauce. All entree plates are served with Mexican rice, salad and refried beans. It’s almost like having an amazing home-cooked meal in someone’s kitchen.

94-226 Leoku St., Waipahu. (671-8776). Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun 11am–10pm. Fri-Sat 11am–10pm. Entrees: $9.99-$14.99.

Middle Eastern & Greek

The Fat Greek

While the food isn’t startlingly original, the atmosphere and patrons give the place a certain collegiate, white-collar appeal. The soundtrack of the establishment is a firm mix of upbeat tunes from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. The prices at this place really can’t be beat. Once the bourgeoisie onslaught diminishes, The Fat Greek will probably become a favorite for starving dorm students who no longer feel like heating up a Cup o’ Noodle.

3040 Waialae Ave. (734-0404). Daily 11am–2pm, 5pm–10pm. Entrees: $7-$19.95.

Southeast Asian & Indian

Bombay Indian Restaurant

One of the highlights of Indian cuisine is its wonderful treatment of vegetables, and I was thrilled to see my favorite dish on the menu: Baingan bhartha, baked and mashed eggplant cooked with onions, tomatoes and spices. The popular veggie standards are here also: Palak paneer, chana masala and dal makhni, plus lesser-known variations like bhindi masala made with okra. While some Indian desserts can be either excessively floral or clunky, the ones at Bombay are subtle and mostly pleasant.

Discovery Bay Center, 1778 Ala Moana Blvd. (942-3990). 5–10pm. Entrees: $9.95–$21.95. JCB, MC, V.

India Café

India Café, a small, homey restaurant in Kilohana Square, serves up some of the best curry-and-roti combos in town in a cozy atmosphere. The menu is basic but varied, with six chutneys, 11 types of bread and enough variations of curry to turn anyone’s head. It is vegetarian-friendly, with as many vegetable sambals and masalas as there are meat offerings. Of note is the okra vegetable curry, a delicate, mild dish—the soft okra leaves room for the spices to stand out, creating a wonderfully complex mixture that starts out with a bite and goes down smooth. Spicy but not scorching, stop by India Café after your next Bollywood marathon and satisfy your craving for cayenne, tamarind and cinnamon.

1016 Kapahulu Ave. (737-4600). Lunch: Fri.–Sun. 11am–2:30pm, Dinner: Sun–Thu, 5pm–9pm. Fri–Sat, 5pm–9:30pm. Entrees: $7.95–$16.95. MC, V.

Madras Café

Madras is just about your only choice for fast, café style Indian food at lunchtime. While ingredients change daily, the food tastes home-cooked. The dishes are thoughtful, well-balanced and consistent—they will satisfy your hankering for Indian food without sending you back to work exuding clouds of curry. The service is friendly and fast.

2320 S. King St. Ste. B4. (949-4840). Mon–Thu, 11am–3pm. Entrees: $6.95–$7.95.

Opal Thai Food

Diners who devour not Kahuku shrimp but satay and fried rice have come to Opal Thai Food for the cooking of Opel and Aoy Sirichandrha. Originally from Thailand, they are now united on the North Shore with a shared dream: To serve simple, good, honest food. The popular green papaya salad is seasoned with an authentically pounded tincture of limejuice, fresh garlic and tomato.

Across from McDonald’s, Kamehameha Hwy. Haleiwa (381-8091). Wed–Sun, 11am–6pm. Entrees: $6.50–$7.95. Cash only.

Pho Minh Thu

The promise of hot, healthy pho helps to offset the lackluster ambience here, as does the swift and attentive, if hurried, service. The pho is a watery beef-based broth slow-cooked with hefty doses of Saigon-Cinnamon, star anise and ginger. Pho is the saving grace at Pho Minh Thu, standing alone as a lone exemplar of the soul of the Vietnamese kitchen. Pho is also a testament to the many threads of influence in Vietnamese cuisine, the noodles-in-soup being a distinctively Chinese gastronomic desire.

478 ‘Ena Rd., Waikiki (946-2299). Daily, 10am–9pm. Entrees: $7–$8.50.

Pho Viet

Pho Viet’s store window displays a sign, which reads “best soup in town.” They are not kidding. All pho houses use the same ingredients, but Pho Viet does it better. The combination of the sensuous rice noodles, different beef cuts (each with a unique texture and flavor), broth and condiments draws out different arrays o flavors with each chew. Apart from the pho, the menu mostly caters to standard local tastes in Vietnamese cuisine. With 66 delicious dishes on the menu, Pho Viet offers both good food and good service.

99-163 Moanalua Rd., (486-7688). Tue–Sun, 10am–9pm. Entrees: $7-$8.50. MC, V.