Support the Weekly

Q and A

Andy South
South works that fierce dummy.
Image: LIFETIME NETWORK

Going South

Project Runway gets a taste of Wai‘anae with Andy South

Dated

Mon, Jul 29

Andy South / Before you could say, “auf wiedersehen,” Hawaii’s own Andy South, local contestant on the upcoming season of Project Runway, was saying, “aloha” and heading to the Big Apple. South’s journey from Waianae to New York City is a Cinderella story in the making…only he’s designing the dress before midnight. We caught up with him to chat about making the cut, the fierce competition and the Asian invasion.


Where are you right now?

I’m at home, in Hawaii.

After someone competes on Project Runway in New York City, what’s the first thing they do when they get back to Hawaii?

I went to dinner with my mom, my sister and my best friends. Something very laid back, where I could finally center myself now that I’m home.

You’re originally from Waianae and Waipahu. What’s it like growing up there wanting to be a designer?

I was always seen as having the “creative thing,” being the artsy one, a little weird at times, but that’s how it is. Growing up in Waianae was very different. People probably think it’s tough, but it never stopped my dreams. Once I left though, I realized how being from [Waianae] helped me grow and build my character and I’m really proud now.

When did you start designing?

I started designing my junior year of high school, but I was more into dance. As far as real design, I didn’t start until college.

And who encouraged you to audition for PR?

A lot of friends, photographers and models I’ve worked with. They always told me to audition and the first and last time I did was two years ago. Ever since then, they would keep asking, “Are you going to do it again?” So, I tried again.

On the show, when you see your designs coming down the runway, not to mention in front of Heidi Klum, Michael Kors, and Nina Garcia, how does that feel?

It was really surreal. I remember our first runway show, you kind of realize, wow, Michael is really there, Heidi is really there and we’re really here. For me, that feeling never fully settled until later: how huge it was being a part of PR.

You used to work as a sales associate at Michael Kors.

(Laughs) Yes. It’s strange how it goes full circle.

Did you ever look at other contestants on the show and think, “My dress can destroy your dress?” In other words, do you thrive on the competition?

I can be a competitive person, but that’s just the Asian influence in me, to be the best at everything. I’m also soft-spoken and quiet, since I’m never one to boast that I’m going to win, although of course, I hope to; again, my Asian upbringing. For me, the real competition was with myself. The reality of every challenge was to be true to myself, and that’s all you can do to make an impact.

At 23, you’re relatively young. You’re the second youngest contestant this season. Were you intimidated?

I don’t know if I was intimidated because I went in knowing I could compete. I felt like a strong competitor in this fruit salad of people. The cast is filled with so many different characters, so it wasn’t so much intimidation, it’s just when you first meet people, you don’t know what they’re capable of yet.

You consider one of your weaknesses to be the tendency to constantly change your designs.

What I learned from the show is to commit to something. At home I can edit as I go, but on the show, while on the constant time limit you’re given, you have no choice but to commit.

Is there anyone in the fashion world who you particularly look up to or identify with?

Asian designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe. I feel like I understand their aesthetic and vice-versa. They’re people I can relate to because of my background.

Describe your design sensibility.

It’s definitely more avant-garde. I have a background in theater and dance. I’m definitely the dramatic one, the theatrical one who wants to set himself apart.

You list rice patty workers, Chinese lanterns and bamboo fields as inspirations. Do you find Asian culture and nature to be a constant theme in your collections?

Well, this is because I was always a mama’s boy. Meaning she’s always been involved with her immediate community and maintaining that culture, to be knowledgeable of ourselves, that really keys into my design aesthetic. Also, I love the story between clothes and culture, especially in Asia. For them, fashion is function. You see it in remote mountain tribes where they’re wearing perfectly designed clothing because it needs to be, yet it’s still beautiful artistically.

On the PR website, you give a tour of your home: dresses hanging on the walls, rooms full of fabrics, stocked with sewing machines, you even have buckets outside where you do all your own custom dying. How long have you been working out of this fashion plantation in Waipahu?

I was working like that for two years. Designing had become everything I did, but there was a time before that when I was working out of a tent…until it fell apart. (Laughs) I’ve had to sleep on my cutting table before because of the lack of space.

You wear a lot of black, and dramatically so. Growing up in Hawaii, how do you navigate owning a polarizing sense of style?

It’s normal for me. That’s how I’ve been dressing recently and I’m very comfortable in that. There are times when I’m gawked (at), but definitely the people I hang out with embrace it.

In general, how has Hawaii influenced your designs?

Mixed cultures, Asian cultures in particular. Being from Hawaii, it’s such a melting pot, you can’t help it. If I moved to New York, I ask myself, “Would I be able to sustain myself creatively if I draw so much from home?” It’s something I still ask myself.

What do you think is lacking in the fashion scene here in Hawaii?

Nothing in particular. I think it’s just the willingness to embrace a lot. It’s not really “lacking,” it’s just we’re so comfortable here. Hawaii has a very casual lifestyle. An energy unique to itself; it’s beyond fashion, but there’s definitely a movement. Look at the Chinatown art scene. There’s something going on there.

Do you design with a specific woman in mind? Who’s the Andy South customer?

She lives in my mind, the Andy South woman. She’s really strong, with a strong aesthetic and edgy. She travels the world, she takes little things from everywhere she goes and incorporates it into her wardrobe with a specific love for culture, incorporating everything into a Western fashion perspective.

Project Runway, Thu., 7/29, 9pm ET/PT on Lifetime.


COMMENTS

We often print online comments in our “Letters to the Editor” section of Honolulu Weekly. While submitted letters are often edited for length and clarity, online comments we use are printed entirely as they are written for the website. If you do not wish for your comment to be used in Honolulu Weekly print issues, please write “Don’t Print” at the end of your comment. For questions, e-mail editorial@honoluluweekly.com. Thank you!

blog comments powered by Disqus

This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.