A bowl of ‘awa and food for thought
Owners Jonathan Yee and Daren Kimura; ubiquitous bass player Jon Hawes joins Steve Inglis for a set.
As an editor and someone whose name is constantly misspelled, it pains me (and maybe the French?) to see cafÈ spelled with a ‘k’ and without the l’accent aigu. But when I thought that perhaps it’s spelled with a ‘k’ because–alliteration notwithstanding–there’s no ‘c’ in Hawaiian, I withheld my objection given how liberally English speakers borrow Hawaiian words, misspell them, mispronounce them and leave out diacriticals altogether. But then again, the Hawaiian language has no ‘f,’ either. So ‘kafe’ is kind of Hawaiian and kind of not, a fair assessment of the place itself.
The vibe at Kapahulu Kafe–in part inherited from the space’s former tenant, Hale Noa ‘awa bar–is predominantly Hawaiian, even if the menu is not. Think of it as cafÈ fare with local flair: kama’aina-friendly selections like seared ahi lettuce wraps and pastrami pipikaula sandwiches.
First things first. Kapahulu Kafe is not Hale Noa, nor does it presume to be. Gone is the reverential, candle-lit ambience. New is the food and beverage menu and free wireless Internet access. Kapahulu Kafe owners Jonathan Yee and Daren Kimura respect the unique community built by Hale Noa, and they seek to foster a similarly engaging atmosphere. So pieces of Hale Noa remain: They didn’t touch the kumulipo room, which houses the mesmerizing floor-to-ceiling mural of the Hawaiian creation myth and the story of Haloa by native artist Solomon Enos; some of the musicians who play are former Hale Noa patrons and performers; and many of the old regulars, those who miss Hale Noa dearly, have slowly trickled back to continue the discourse that began countless bowls of ‘awa ago.
The starter menu is dominated by a slew of quesadillas. Kap Kafe’s signature pupu, the kalua quesadilla ($5, $7.50 double order), is crispy but not oily on the outside and stuffed with smoked kalua pig, green onions and shredded cheese. It’s pretty standard as far as quesadillas go, and pleasingly light–there wasn’t so much cheese that you feel your arteries clogging after eating a few 2-inch wedges. The quesadillas come with their special individual dips, which are really the reason to order them. A fresh, sweet mango-papaya salsa complements the kalua quesadilla, and a smooth guacamole-sour cream dip accompanies the pipikaula-wild mushroom quesadilla ($5, $7.50 double order).
A standout on the pupu menu is the edamame ($2.50). The soybeans are lightly dressed in a tangy-salty house-made drizzle, some kind of secret sesame oil-chili-garlic-shoyu mixture that leaves you sucking on the shells long after the beans are gone. The seared ahi lettuce wraps ($6.50), fresh poke flash-fried and served with hearts of Romaine and a wasabi aioli, are also notable. It’s like Hawaii-style California cuisine–fried poke in a raw, green shell–a localized fish taco. The chicken and mixed vegetable pot stickers ($6.50) were among the table’s favorites. Browned to a crisp on the bottom (but not burnt), the tender dumplings held tight to their flavorful juices at the mercy of the piercing tines looming over them.
Of the three salads ($6) that are available, the most delightful is the strawberry salad, which consists of organic baby greens tossed with a sweet and heady strawberry guava vinaigrette, topped with strawberries and croutons. The strawberries tasted like the previously frozen syrup-soaked variety, but rather than detracting, they added contrast to the salad’s light, summery appeal.
If you’re looking for greater sustenance, order one of the three pasta entrees ($7.50)–which come with your choice of salad–or a sandwich. I’d recommend the pesto pasta. Kimura’s unique orange mac-nut pesto sauce is not too overpowering in flavor, nor does it drown the angel hair pasta. It comes in a healthy helping with sautÈed vegetables and your choice of sautÈed shrimp or chicken. As one of the diners described, the food at Kapahulu Kafe is ’simple, hot and fresh.’ A straightforward formula for a satisfying meal.
My only gripe concerns the Styrofoam boxes in which the meals are served. Not only are they unsightly, they’re environmentally unfriendly, strikingly antithetical to a place that promotes aloha ‘aina. This, I’m told, is a temporary situation attributed to not having enough staff to prep the food and wash the dishes.
The beverage options include a 100 percent Kona peaberry whole-bean coffee, iced tea with mint, hot green tea and bottled juices and sodas, but an evening at Kapahulu Kafe is just not the same without a bowl of ‘awa. Co-owner Jonathan Yee founded the Hawaiian Kava Center and he helps organize the annual Hawai’i Pacific Islands Kava Festival at University of Hawai’i. The man knows his ‘awa, and this ‘awa–from the root of the Mahakea ‘awa plant–is potent. The $4 serving, delivered in a paper tapa-print bowl, goes a long way to calm your state of mind and encourage deeper focus.
Finally, an indisputable reason to go is the music. At Kapahulu Kafe you can hear some of Honolulu’s best musicians unplugged in a laidback setting. Weekly regulars include singer-songwriters Steve Inglis (Sundays) and Michael Tannenbaum (Wednesdays) and acoustic folk rockers The Girlas (Thursdays). Don’t be surprised if patrons like Ernie Cruz, Jr. (Ka’au Crater Boys), Barry Flanagan (Hapa) and Paula Fuga (performing with Mike Love on 8/30) sit in for a set as well.
Tuesday night is brewer’s night, serving ‘awa only. The menu is offered Wednesday through Sunday.
Kapahulu Kafe
766 Kapahulu Ave. ï 732-7486
Hours: Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight, Tues 8pm-midnight ‘awa only
Price Range: Appetizers: $2.50-$7.50, salads $6, sandwiches $5, pasta $7.50
Recommended: potstickers, edamame, pipikaula-mushroom quesadilla, chicken pesto pasta, ‘awaPayment: AmEx, V, MC, Disc, Diner’s, JCB,
