Honolulu Weekly

Hungry Lion / Hungry Lion

Hungry Lion’s menchi katsu loco moco might take the cake (make that meat cake) in the loco moco world. As if the larger-than-usual portion of a thick hamburger patty bathed in dark brown gravy over rice (or over hash browns–more oil!) and topped with two eggs wasn’t enough, the patty is crusted in panko and deep-fried. This digestive feat is then accompanied by a scoop of mac salad. And a thick slice of margarined toast. Needless to say, this is not for the faint of stomach. “Plenny, huh?” said the server as she brought over the massive plate after only a few minutes of wait time. Already knowing that one might have difficulty downing the dish, the server brought over two sizes of to-go boxes. All this for only $6.95.

This is Hungry Lion, and how it has almost always been. “Big is our policy here,” said the diner’s current owner, who has been involved in the establishment in various ways for years previous to his sole ownership. Another fun fact about him: he adamantly refused to be named for this story, saying that he preferred to let the diner speak for itself. A little odd, but we’re happy to oblige. Just know that he’s there almost everyday and he may be the person watching dishes, cooking or bussing tables. Just don’t ask who he is. Despite this slightly misanthropic and oddball nature, the owner did pause a few times during the Weekly interview to warmly greet or say goodbye to regulars. “99 percent of our customers are regulars…I don’t mind new customers, I just don’t want the tourists here,” he said. An unusual combination of impatience and dedication, he does add to the odd fabric that makes up Hungry Lion.

First opened by sports fan Roy Shimonishi in 1982, the name Hungry Lion stemmed from Shimonishi wanting a sports-related mascot, as well as something that would indicate a big appetite. Since the lion is the king of the animal kingdom, the maned feline was the winner. The same sports photos and memorabilia from Shimonishi’s days line the walls. The same animal murals exist, along with cartoon jungle animals on the windows, fading with time. The same green dining booths seat the same derrieres from day to day. While some Hungry Lion newbies may wrinkle their noses at the throwback vibe of the restaurant, to the majority of the customers, the unchanging ambience provides comfort. Some of the staff is even the same from the second wave of ownership (the current owner is the third. “I got rid of the bad ones,” said the owner matter-of-factly.)

Perhaps more importantly, the same banyan trees sprout up from the middle of the restaurant, fabled to be the first Chinese Banyan trees brought to Hawaii by Chun Afong, the Islands’ first Chinese millionaire. Is there any danger of the trees’ roots ruining the foundation of the restaurant? The owner shook his head. “The trees aren’t on our property. Walgreens bought this lot, so the property managers take care of it.” The mainland-based drug store chain will make itself present on the lot in due time. Hungry Lion has nine more years on its lease. The fate of the Lion after that is unclear.

Meanwhile, back in the comfort zone, TVs around the restaurant are tuned to various channels. “The customers tell us what they want to watch,” said the owner. And while there is still a strong sports preference among the clientele, the owner said that even if something like the NBA Finals are on, he’ll try to keep one TV tuned to something child-friendly.

When asked about the menu, the owner said he hasn’t changed anything from the previous ownership, and doesn’t plan to add anything new. The most popular dishes remain the hearty Super Bowl (teri beef, crispy won ton and chicken katsu over fried noodles with kamoboko and green onion), the Aloha Bowl (hamburger patty, roast pork, and chicken katsu over rice with curry sauce) and the Hula Bowl (teri chicken, chicken katsu and crispy won ton over fried rice with kamoboko and green onion). There aren’t many greens on the menu, and those not used to mixing various high-sodium meats with mayonnaise and copious amounts of oil should be wary. Those whose livers are thoroughly satiated for the night, or those suffering from the consequences of overly satiated livers, will find solace in the starchy food, with leftovers to boot. Local fusion continues to be unusual with the Italian chicken katsu–Bolognese sauce and shredded cheese over chicken katsu, accompanied by white rice and steamed vegetables. Even the keiki plates are unusual, with one combination featuring a hamburger patty, spaghetti, a pancake and ice cream.

While most customers are fiercely loyal, the owner has cited a few late-night incidents where unfamiliar faces try to walk out on their bills. Blame the times. However, the classic-diner feeling of safety and community makes up the dominant ambience. Familiar yet unobtrusive, even the two big trees sticking out of the roof seem to echo the humble nature behind the massive heart of this institution and its dishes.