Poly-amory
Maybe you’re familiar with Polynesian, Micronesian and any other -nesian cultures. Maybe you’re curious. Either way, unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’ve probably noticed an infusion of Polynesian and Micronesian cultures to our fair Islands. Whether part of a politically charged diaspora or because Hawaii is the easiest and closest way to get the best of both worlds (paradise, meet the American Dream), the Hawaiian archipelago is a popular destination for our Pacific neighbors. And one great way to learn more about them is through their food.
Recent comers from certain parts of Oceania learn via the coconut wireless about where to find the familiar tastes they crave. But as for those of us outside the loop?
No need to go restaurant-hopping. Although you’ll probably find your fair share of Polynesian and Micronesian dishes on the menu of your favorite Hawaiian and local food restaurants, there’s an alternative you may have been overlooking: You can find some of the best samplings at the island’s growing selection of Polynesian grocery stores. Most are in Kalihi, Waipahu and Wai’anae–so all of you townies take a trek to get your immersion on.
These grocery stores are, for the most part, small, mom-and-pop ventures–essentially liquor stores that are dominated by a section dedicated to hot foods. You may detect the subtle smell of fish in the air. That, along with the kitchen right next to the store, lends the place a sense of authenticity.
The bakery items are usually at the front of the store. Individually wrapped servings of baked breadfruit, large half-moon pineapple turnovers and andagi-like balls of fried dough line up in rows behind the display counter. If there’s a Korean-mama-like employee behind the counter who doesn’t speak English, you may never find out what the grainy substance in the styrofoam cups are–but that’s all the more reason to try it, eh?
A key ingredient on the menu is coconut milk. You’ll find it in Tongan laulau (lupulu), which is made of corned beef, onion, tomato and coconut milk. It’s also in oka, a raw fish salad popular in Samoa. All this coconut milk may sound like a sweet tooth’s dream, but much of the coconut milk is unsweetened, yielding more of a creamy texture rather than an overly sweet taste.
The selection of hot dishes usually includes a buffet-style setup of baked turkey tails, curried pigs feet, lamb curry and other saucy, salty dishes that may be familiar to the local eater’s palate.
Want to stock up on some staples of the Oceanian kitchen? These stores stock 98-ounce cans of coconut milk, 48-ounce cans of corned beef, Colonial-brand corned mutton from Australia and plantain flour. While the selection of fresh produce leaves much to be desired, you’ll find whole, peeled and/or cooked taro, plantains and bananas.
While most of the stores are small, they cater to more than just food needs. Are you craving some Polynesian pop music? Look no further than the display case featuring the likes of Samoa Stars, Shado Avia and Isaac Pula Vol. 9. Ooooh! “Breeze of Samoa”!
You can jam in style by buying some of the accessories on sale–like the thick, leopard-printed, plastic bracelet cuff with “Samoa” written in silver or gold paint. Some of the stores will personalize the bracelets for $20. Get a matching ring, while you’re at it.
So don’t overlook these small grocery stores. They fulfill a certain cultural and lifestyle need–maybe one that you may enjoy too. Pass the grated cassava.
Where to find polynesian groceries
Kalihi Tammy’s Polynesian Market #2 717 N. King St., 841-6000
Hours: 6am–9pm
Kalihi Market, 2161 N. School St.
847-1673 Hours: 7am–9pm daily
Waipahu
Tammy’s Polynesian Market
94-839 Farrington Hwy., 671-3441
Hours: 6am–10pm daily
Waianae
A T Polynesian Market
87-1784 Farrington Hwy., 668-6630
Hours: 8:30am–8:30pm
Ono Polynesian Market 85-998 Farrington Hwy. 696-0777 Hours: 7am–9pm
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