Restaurants

Umami Cafe, Tango Market
Tangö Market steals the side show.
Image: Shantel Grace

The Bad, the Good, the Malt in your Mouth

Once occupied by Satura Cakes, both Tangö Market and Umami Café ask--is there such a thing as “too” casual?

Umami Cafe, Tango Market / I’m a fairly easy casual diner who doesn’t need arse-kissing. I don’t need someone to wipe my crumbs or applaud me for ordering bruschetta while pronouncing it correctly. Just don’t make me feel stupid because I can’t figure out where to place my order.

That’s where it all started at Umami Café–a Japanese-style coffee bar located in the Harbor Court Building downtown. Visually speaking, it’s a stunner. Warm lighting and Asian décor are incredibly latte: strong, frothy, steamy and exactly what a person wants in a coffee shop. But let me get straight to the point.

A sign says, “Order Here,” but don’t fall for it.

The girl behind the counter looks utterly annoyed that I’m still standing there five minutes later. How was I supposed to know that the café’s “Carry Out” sign is short for “Read my mind”?

Still, my hopes were high. Like I’ve already mentioned, the place is aesthetically inviting, and anyone in the mood for a cute downtown lunch spot would’ve stopped just like I did. After swallowing my pride, I finally ordered a grilled, smoked salmon BLT ($5.49), but then made the audacious mistake of asking about their soup of the day.

“Portuguese bean soup,” she says, and I say “One bowl please,” and she says “Take a bowl from the table.” So I scoop up a bowl of soup from the bento table: Cold, cold soup from a cold, cold heart.

Strike two.

A sandwich it is. (And a slice of carrot cake ($4.95) and a tempura handroll ($2.59) and a drink.) Not that bad for $18 but not that great either. Had the service been exceptional, the food would’ve tasted better. But the fact that I felt stupid and underfed, all the while experiencing epic buyer’s remorse, left a funny taste in my mouth.

Despite my dislike of their service, I still consider Umami Café an interesting discovery. I’ve only tried one percent of their menu, and I’d like to think that perhaps I caught them on an “off” day. They have items like the lobster sandwich ($5.99) and a cranberry turkey croissant ($5.49) that look pretty darn good. Their specialty bentos ($3.99–$8.99) and warm coffees and mochas could very well knock somebody else’s socks off.

Learning to forgive mediocre service and mildly warm food isn’t easy, especially in a town where, for the same price, I can find fresh fish with a side of aloha for the same price. The atmosphere of Umami Café shines through, but just as I’m heading out the door, I look for a recycle bin to throw my aluminum can in, and the same girl yells out, “Just throw it away, we don’t recycle here.”

Strike three.

Tangö Market, on the other hand, is quietly irresistible. Its menu is smartly priced; its dining area is airy but not cold; and when so many restaurants are skimming on trends, Tangö reaches for mom’s kitchen while keeping their food pretty healthy. Waffles, shepherd’s pie, meatballs and vegetarian lasagna are just a few of the items taken straight out of some Scandinavian recipe book.

Located at Ward Center, Tangö Market seems to be preaching a gourmet-on-the-run kitchen concept, standing firm in an honest marriage between Swedish flavors and American largesse. Its colorful décor and warm lighting are just right for breakfast with friends or as a lone diner perfectly comfortable with a book of short stories.

What stole my heart was the pillowy chocolate mousse topped with cream and nutty bits of something akin to toffee ($4.95). Enough for two, this dessert steals the menu’s thunder. It’s smooth, spongy and silky in all the right places.

The vegetarian lasagna ($59.95) is enough to feed a family (6-8 people). Smaller portions are available, and much more affordable, but knowing there’s a place that uses whole ingredients, and cooks with respect for our health, is a welcoming thought.

My only complaint: Although we understand the concept of casual dining, is there such a thing as too casual? For example, if the oriental chicken wraps are pre-made and wrapped and ready to go, why make the customer wait at the table instead of handing them to him? And let me refer back to the previous review–Umami Café–where, even though the soup was cold, the café does offer a complimentary microwave. But do we want to pay $18 to nuke the food ourselves?

Regardless, Tangö’s oriental chicken wrap arrives colorful, juicy and full of flavor–a reminder of the days when ingredients were pronounceable.

Small things impressed in a big way. Nothing seemed over-salted, overly sweet or in any way compromised. And the chefs are wise enough to know it.

55 Merchant St. Harbor Court Building Mon.-Fri., 6:30am - 2:30pm 537-6555 [umamicafehawaii.com]

1200 Ala Moana Blvd. Ward Center, Bldg 6, Ste 601 Mon.–Fri., 7am–9pm; Sat., 8am–9pm; Sun., 8am-5pm 596-4888 [tangomarket.com]



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This week

Honolulu Confidential

For this year’s Food + Drink issue, we compiled 100-plus memories of the fantastic bites we’ve taken, the culinary experiences we’ve undergone and other tasteful moments of absolutely loving what Hawaii’s food scene has to offer. The result is a mixed plate of the Weekly ‘ohana’s favorite dishes, libations, produce, places and some lesser-known joys.

Favorite Dishes

Respect Your Veg At long last, vegetables are being recognized as culinary stars. The following dishes have two things in common: They’re veggie-centric, if not strictly vegetarian, and best eaten on the spot.

Noodles

Paitan Broth: Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya If you’re a ramen lover, you know the most important element of the bowl is the broth. At Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya, the paitan broth ($9.95 for paitan chashu ramen) is deeply savory.

Baked Goods

Naan: Cafe Maharani “The dough is just special,” says owner Chris Rahman of Cafe Maharani. The naan ($2.99) is made to order and handled very delicately.

Mean But Worth It

Asian: Green Door Cafe Enter into Green Door Cafe to find a whole ‘nother world. Owner Betty Peng is a one-woman show (don’t start with her, or else) and cooks all of her Singaporean dishes to order.

RIP

Byron’s Drive-in The vacant, former Byron’s Drive-in building still stands near the airport since closing its doors in February. “We’d always go [to Byron’s] late at night,” says Sabrina Thompson, a Tripler Hospital nurse.

Meat

Shinsato Pork: Guava Smoked Scott Shibuya of Guava Smoked made a splash in the farmers’ market scene with his finger-licking good, guava wood-smoked Shinsato Pork. “I really wanted to be my own boss,” he says.

Dairy

Cheese: Surfing Goat Dairy Owners Thomas and Eva Kafsack moved from Germany to Maui and found that they missed receiving fresh goat cheese from their neighbors’ backyards. A few goats from the Big Island (and a huge investment) later, Surfing Goat Dairy was born.

Snacks & Desserts

Decadent Fries: Home Bar and Grill These aren’t ordinary fried potatoes. Chef Neil Nakasone’s Parmesan truffle fries ($8) are an elite class of spuds.

Pop-Ups

Rotations: Taste Some might say Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi and partner Amanda Corby, with the help of another power couple, Poni and Brandon Askew of StreetGrindz, fleshed out the pop-up trend with Taste. But: “Actually, Adam is Taste,” Gooch explains, referring to Taste’s general manager, Adam Lock.

Healthy

Healthy Food Truck: Beet Box Cafe The Beet Box Cafe is a sit-down eatery located in Haleiwa Town, but their bright yellow lunch wagon is also worth following. The lunchtruck serves organic, vegetarian burritos ($7-10), a special of the day made with farm-to-table ingredients ($10-12), smoothies ($7.50), kombucha ($5) and snacks such as baked goods and dried fruits ($3).

Seafood

A Cook’s Catch When it comes to fish, freshness really matters, so eating local from our Hawaiian waters is always in the best of taste. Health and sustainability also count.

To-Go

Whole Foods & Down To Earth Down to Earth offers strictly vegetarian delights such as Bombay spinach, eggplant parmesan, stuffed shells, Thai curry and vegetable korma ($9.59/pound). The tofu and eggplant are always sourced from local producers.

‘Aina

Edible Land: Permablitz Fruit trees flourish in Hawaii but sadly, much goes to waste. Permablitz aims to change that.

Fruits

Foraging: Strawberry Guava at Waahila Ridge Strawberry guava is invasive to Hawaii, which is why I don’t feel an ounce of guilt picking the small, red fruits in (free!) handfuls whenever I hike up Waahila Ridge. When they’re a light red color, just pull them off the trees, check for bug-made holes and bite in.

Spices

Nutmeg and Cloves: Frankie’s Nursery Want to spice up your kitchen? Lynn Tsuruda of Frankie’s Nursery says they sell spices grown in Hawaii, by the plant or the fruit.

Specialty Markets

Filipino: Pacific Drive out to Central Oahu and find Pacific Supermarket, a haven for all things Southeast Asian. With the Leeward community’s large Filipino population, access to local favorites at Pacific is a big deal.

Lesser Known

Korean Chew: Taegu Taegu, more properly pronounced as dae-goo, is either a variety of cod, sliced into strips and seasoned, or a seasoned side dish. There is some confusion, as I came to realize while asking my born-and-raised-in-Korea mom, because those side dishes are made with different fish.

Coffee & Tea

Matcha Latte: Peace Cafe Peace Cafe, a second home for vegans, carries a matcha (green tea) latte with a secret. “The first sip is always the most important,” explains an employee.

Healthy

Good For You: Kombucha A SCOBY is a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast integral to making kombucha. Kombucha, a fizzy tea, is full of promises to boost detoxification, immunity and digestion and joint health.

Cooking Classes

Free: Whole Foods Whole Foods Market Kahala offers free cooking classes at CookSpace in Ward Warehouse. “We just did a Health Starts Here cooking class,” says Whole Foods marketing supervisor Natalie Aczon.

Alcohol

Wine Tasting: Kalapawai Cafe Every second Sunday of the month at 3:30 p.m., Kalapawai Cafe holds a free wine tasting. “We [have] five wines.

Aloha ‘ino

Dear Friends, Readers, and Advertisers, I am sorry to say that this will be the last issue of the Weekly that we will print. I am sad about closing but I see no way that we can maintain our revenue stream and our fiscal health.

Phasing

Native Hawaiians and preservationists have pledged to fight a law, signed by Gov. Neil Abercrombie on May 28, that will allow some construction projects to begin before the site has been fully inspected for ancient burials.

A Food Forest

Imagine you’re walking through downtown Honolulu and, rather than bypassing an empty, blighted park, you’re drawn into an urban oasis–a forest of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. You could spend your lunch break chatting with friends in the shade of an ‘ulu tree–and, if you’re hungry, pick whatever’s in season.

CIVIX

Road Rule On May 20, Gov. Abercrombie signed Act 73, requiring all vehicle passengers to buckle up regardless of age or seating arrangement.

Hell No, GMO

Tourists enjoying the Waikiki waterfront were treated to Hawaiian phrases such as “Aole, aole, aole GMO!” chanted by protesters in the March Against Monsanto on Sat., May 25. Translation: No GMOs, ever.

Done Deals?

The Hawaii Community Development Authority (HCDA) made its proposed plan to redevelop the Kakaako district available to the community during an open house on Thu., May 23. HCDA Executive Director Tony Ching began with a presentation of the new Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) plan before letting residents ask questions.

TheBus

In 2011 the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) was tasked by then-Mayor Peter Carlisle’s administration to shave $10 million from its budget. Over the course of a year, several bus routes were cut and many more were shortened or reconfigured and the frequency of service decreased.

No one for GMO

You mentioned in your May 29 GMO article (“Big Pharm Fallout”) that GMO bans were placed on taro and coffee in 2008 in Kohala County. However it was an islandwide ban in Hawaii County.

Sovereignty issues

What a great quote: “I understand that it’s frustrating that we can’t get past the issue of homelessness . .

Not pono

I know space is limited and you couldn’t put everything in one small article (“Art with HART,” May 29). Here is the rest of what I wanted to have said.

Git ‘er done

Have five or more contractors “compete” by tackling sections of roadway (“Road Repaving,” May 29). Criteria for competing are expenses, timeliness and a level of quality assurance standards.

A memoir’s reach

Thanks for this article (“The Naked Truth,” May 22), I’m Mykel Hicks, grandson of Sharon Hicks, and I am so proud of my grandma for all she has done for herself, this family and specifically me. She is an amazing grandma who comes with a moving story I hope can help people around the world.

Fix Kakaako

Please remind readers that the HCDA is not interested in providing housing for minimum wage individuals or families, but in providing property developers with profitable opportunities; that our ancient water and sewage lines were not designed to support the needs of thousands of condo and apartment dwellers, but no one is interested in replacing them because no one wants to pay the price (“Civix,” May 22). As a result, Kakaako’s streets are regularly flooded with no sidewalk retreat for pedestrians, wheelchairs, bicyclists, skateboarders, etc., and constantly excavated/repaired to accommodate one project after the other.