Support the Weekly

Restaurants

Image: Martha Cheng

To Market, to Market

The Eat Local Challenge guides, part 2

To be honest, when I first took on the Eat Local Challenge, it wasn’t so much the green/sustainability/food security issues that drew me in. It was the adventure and challenge of it all that appealed to me, and through the experience, I’ve come up with my own personal motivations for eating local. One of them is still the adventure. Grocery stores, farmers’ markets and all the little markets around town become foraging grounds, and once you start looking, the more you find.

Here’s the Weekly’s grocery guide (part 2) for the Eat Local Challenge; use it as a launching point to find your own gems.

Farmers’ Markets

Of course, farmers’ markets are the best ways to shop for eating local. But not all are created equal. There are now a bewildering number of markets, some of them filled with repackaged Costco produce from the mainland. Your best bets are Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation (HFBF) markets, the most famous (and crowded) of them being the one at Kapiolani Community College. It’s still worth fighting through the Japanese tourists to come, though; there are some vendors here that don’t sell anywhere else, like Blue Lotus Farm, which sells free-range chicken and duck eggs, and Kuahiwi Ranch, which comes monthly with Kau-raised beef. The HFBF Honolulu Farmers’ Market at Blaisdell is another great option for those who refuse to wake up early on a Saturday morning. Khamphout Farm brings a wide variety of greens and specialty items like fresh bamboo shoots and fern shoots; WOW Farms from Waimea on the Big Island sells luscious ripe tomatoes; and Daizu Tei offers locally-made tofu and soy milk. Kailua and Mililani also host HFBF markets.

Pamela Boyar and Annie Suite actively screen vendors to make sure all produce is local at their three markets: Haleiwa, Hawaii Kai and Ala Moana. In Haleiwa, find Tin Roof Ranch with chickens and eggs for sale, Mohala Farms with vibrant organic produce and Twin Bridge Farms with fresh asparagus. In Hawaii Kai, you’ll find Otsuji Farms with Asian vegetables. At Ala Moana, there’s North Shore Farms with heirloom tomatoes, carrots and beans; Small Kine Farm with mushrooms; and Madre Chocolate with bean-to-bar chocolates.

HFBF Markets ([hfbf.org]):
Honolulu Farmers’ Market, Wednesdays, 4-7pm, Neal Blaisdell Concert Hall
Kailua, Thursdays, 5-7:30pm, 609 Kailua Rd., by Long’s
KCC, Saturdays, 7:30-11:00am, Kapiolani Community College
Mililani, Sundays, 8-11am, Mililani High School
Markets managed by Pamela Boyar and Annie Suite ([haleiwafarmersmarket.com]):
Ala Moana Farmers’ Market, Saturdays, 9-1pm, upper parking lot by Sears
Hawaii Kai Farmers’ Market, Saturdays, 9-1pm, Kaiser High School
Haleiwa Farmers’ Market, Sundays, 9-1pm, Joseph P. Leong Bypass & Kamehameha Hwy.

Supermarkets and Markets

Shopping local doesn’t mean forgoing supermarkets, especially since they’re still the most convenient place to shop. The best markets for local ingredients are Whole Foods, Foodland (especially Foodland Farms and the Foodlands with an attached R. Fields) and Kokua Market. At Whole Foods, you can get almost all your locally-grown staples: fruits and vegetables from various farmers in the Islands; Island Dairy milk from the Big Island; Maui Cattle Co. beef. What you can’t get is local eggs; none of the larger-scale egg producers here currently meet Whole Foods guidelines. For local eggs, try Kokua Market, which also sources at least a third of their produce locally from growers like MAO Farms and WOW Farms. Frozen, grass-fed beef from Kulana is also available. Foodland Farms offers almost as much local as Whole Foods, with more Asian vegetables and in some locations, a wider variety of local fish, but you have to hunt for some of the items like Naked Cow Dairy butter and Surfing Goat chèvre which are tucked away in specialty aisles.

More fish market than supermarket, Tamashiro Market offers the best selection of island fish, from reef fish to pelagic, as well as various limu and starchy staples like kabocha, sweet potatoes and breadfruit (when in season).

Whole Foods Kahala, 4211 Waialae Ave., 738-0820
Foodland and Foodland Farms, various locations, [foodland.com]
Kokua Market, 2643 S. King St., 941-1922, [kokua.coop]
Tamashiro Market, 802 N. King St., 841-8047

Meat Markets

Want a wider range of cuts than the supermarkets offer? Try Aala Meat Market, which offers Island-raised, free-range beef. If you’re looking for a specific cut, you may need to call or walk-in to place a special order. If it’s island pork you’re craving, call Higa Food Service, which offers Shinsato pigs as well as Big Island wild boar. Be aware, though, that you may need to purchase the whole hog. Higa also offers beef from Kuahiwi Ranch and Kulana.

Aala Meat Market, 751 Waiakamilo Rd., 832-6650
Higa Foodservice, 225 Nimitz Hwy., 531-3591, [higafoodservice.com]

Poi

Since we don’t grow wheat or rice, finding starches sometimes becomes a search of desperation for the carb-lover. Taking cues from the Hawaiian diet, breadfruit and poi are the staples of a truly local diet. There is, of course, bagged poi in most supermarkets as well as Hanalei Poi, sweet and thick. Super-fresh poi is available through Kakoo ‘Oiwi, a non-profit dedicated to recreating a food-producing landscape in Heeia. Kakoo produces poi weekly, at times from non-mainstream kalo cultivars, varieties based on flavor versus production efficiency. And we couldn’t forget Mana ‘Ai, offering hand-pounded pai‘ai, for a consistency that’s more akin to mochi than poi.

Kakoo ‘Oiwi, for poi orders: Kristi Kahale, [email: kristi], 292-6851, and Twitter: @KakooOiwi
Mana ‘Ai, [manaai.com], 542-1326, and Twitter @manaai


COMMENTS

We often print online comments in our “Letters to the Editor” section of Honolulu Weekly. While submitted letters are often edited for length and clarity, online comments we use are printed entirely as they are written for the website. If you do not wish for your comment to be used in Honolulu Weekly print issues, please write “Don’t Print” at the end of your comment. For questions, e-mail editorial@honoluluweekly.com. Thank you!

blog comments powered by Disqus

This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.