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Food & Drink
Local cacao pod and beans at Madre Chocolate.
Image: niko rivas

From Pod to Bon-bon, Island Cacao

Satiate that sweet tooth at the Hawai‘i Chocolate Festival on Saturday, Feb. 25

Food & Drink / If you still have room for sweets since the Chocopocalypse known as Valentine’s Day, you’ll want to stop by one of chocoholics’ most exciting events of the year, The Hawaii Chocolate Festival. The 2nd annual festival, which culminates on Saturday, Feb. 25 at Dole Cannery, celebrates this rich, local product with vendors that grow cacao trees or make chocolate here in the Islands. Treat your palate to a jolt of Madre Chocolate’s intense dark chocolate with bold tropical flavors, or roll Padovani’s Chocolates velvety confections over your taste buds. Each of our many local chocolates tells its own story about its unique growing conditions here in the “North Pole” of chocolate (anyplace north of Hawaii is too cold for cacao to survive).

To whet our appetites, the Weekly visited a few of the local chocolatiers who will share their experiences with you at the Hawaii Chocolate Festival. Here’s a taste of things to enjoy.

Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory

If you happened to catch “Turn On the Dark,” the final episode of the Food Network series Good Eats with honorable food nerd Alton Brown, you might have caught a glimpse of Pam and Bob Cooper, owners of the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory. For fifteen years, the duo has made their chocolates from tree to treat without needing to leave their farm nestled in the hills of Kona. Speaking of Brown’s recent visit to the farm last July, a hint of Pam’s southern drawl slips out. “He is just a prince of a fellah, the nicest, nicest guy you could ever want to meet!”

Although the couple is originally from North Carolina, they’ve been around long enough to notice a spike in the demand for locally grown chocolate. “We were one of the pioneers to start this in ‘97, and we’re really pleased that the industry has taken off with the Chocolate Festival,” says Pam. A lot more people are growing cacao–we think it’s going to be the next new specialty agricultural crop for the state.”

If a tour of the six-acre farm is out of reach, you can find their premiere chocolates at the Honolulu Chocolate Company, Whole Foods and Shop Pacifica at Bishop Museum. The factory offers three types of artfully wrapped single-origin chocolates. As I bit into their creamy plumeria-shaped milk chocolate, I could taste a complex multitude of flavors that seemed delicately floral. Pam is absolutely right when she says, “There’s no better way to spread aloha than with chocolate.”

Malie Kai Chocolates

“I came to visit Hawaii and I basically fell in love with the place,” says Nathan Sato about how he and his wife decided to move here from California. In 2004, when the Berkeley grad and his wife arrived, he noticed there wasn’t much chocolate for sale, beyond chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and international brands, such as Godiva and See’s. “We wanted to make something distinctly Hawaiian. When we discovered they were growing cacao on the North Shore, the light went on,” Sato says, and thus began his endeavors at a small Waialua orchard.

When I tried Malie Kai’s Kona Coffee Cappuccino Bar, it wasn’t the intense chocolate-covered espresso bean taste that I was expecting. Instead, the bar hints at coffee without overpowering the creamy milk chocolate. The milk chocolate bar with Hawaiian cocoa nibs is just as delightful–smooth and creamy, slightly nutty, with a subtle crunch. “My favorite is the dark chocolate with cocoa nibs, but it’s kind of hard for me to choose because it’s like asking to pick which is your favorite child–you kind of love them all,” Sato laughs. “It really showcases the unique Hawaiian flavor of the chocolate, which is a very raisiny, berry kind,” he explains.

The Waialua orchard, owned by Dole, is 20 acres and produces roughly 20,000 pounds of beans a year. “That’s not very much compared to the worldwide production of chocolate, but more and more farmers are getting interested in growing cacao and the potential is really enormous–not that we’ll ever become a major chocolate producer because there just isn’t enough land in Hawaii, but locally, it could be a very important business,” Sato says, adding that he thinks it has the potential to overtake coffee in importance to the state. “We already know that the quality we’re growing is world-class–we took our chocolate to the New York Factory Food Show and people from very prestigious chocolate companies said that it was very, very good.”

Malie Kai Chocolates is available at multiple locations, such as Foodland, Whole Foods and Native Books. They may even open their very own retail store sometime in the future, so keep your eyes peeled and your sweet tooth ready.

Kokoleka OKa Aina Chocolate

Kokoleka OKa Aina translates to “chocolate of the land,” which fits well for Seneca Klassen, the man behind the modest cacao growing operation he runs with his father and best friend. Klassen was originally a chocolate retailer in California, but wanted to be more connected with the start to finish farming aspect. This made Hawaii his ideal destination, as the only place in the US that’s able to support cacao trees.

“My role with the business that I was running up there increasingly became educational,” Klassen says. “Being on the mainland, you don’t have any opportunity to show people the agricultural components of the way the crop is grown, so you’re reduced to pictures and things. All those things just lacked an emotional component that I really wanted,” he explains.

Klassen got his first eight acres in the North Shore in 2009. This year, for the first time, his trees are beginning to bear fruit. By the end of 2012, he plans to add on another six acres. “My long term goal is really to develop an agritourism destination up here on the North Shore where people will be able to see everything from the growth through manufacture. I think it’s this unique combination of place and audience that generates a tremendous amount of potential,” he adds. Keep an eye out for the fruits of Klassen’s labor–the family business hopes to have chocolate available by the summer or fall this year.

Kokoleka Chocolate: [Kokachocolate.wordpress.com]
Madre Chocolate: [Madrechocolate.com]
Malie Kai Chocolates: [Maliekai.com]
Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory: [Ohcf.us], 322-2626
Hawaii Chocolate Festival: [Hawaiichocolatefestival.com]; 234-0404; tickets, $20 in advance, $25 at the door, includes 10 free chocolate samples, farmers and chocolatiers meet and greets and access to their very fresh wares.


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This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.