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Though the food is high-end, the atmosphere is friendly and you’ll soon find yourself sharing plates, as Rosey Calasa is doing here.
Image: WANDA A. ADAMS

Welcome to The Grove

Palaka casual with the taste of sophistication

It was about the Brussels sprouts.

In the course of a multi-course dinner one Friday at The Grove in Kailua, my childhood best friend and I kept going back to the warm Brussels sprouts salad.

I had ordered it because I know Brussels sprouts are a test for any kitchen–restaurant or home. They can be dreadful: soggy and foul-tasting. A lot of people don’t like them, never having had them properly cooked. I also rather pride myself on my own way with Brussels sprouts, an idea I got from Martha Stewart’s cooking show: Instead of boiling the tightly packed knobs, she trims away the stems, painstakingly strips off the leaves and quickly sautes these in a little olive oil.

Cooked this way, Brussels sprouts defeat all previous prejudices. This is how The Grove prepares them, but they take the vegetables to an even greater height.

The sprouts, a half-order ($8) we had chosen to share as a second course, rocked my friend’s world. She kept saying, “I don’t LIKE Brussels sprouts. I don’t EAT Brussels sprouts.” All the while, she was scooping up generous forkfuls of crisp, glistening emerald leaves, generously tossed with toasted nuts, bits of pancetta, dried cranberries and mounds of soft goat cheese.

“You’d have to be an idiot to put Brussels sprouts on your menu unless you knew they would blow people’s minds,” I said, waving away our server’s attempt to remove the plate on which a few shreds were left (we insisted on taking them home).

The Grove owner Fred DeAngelo is no idiot. Nor is sous chef Ed Kuoha. The sure hand they showed with this dish was exhibited throughout the menu, a new one introduced June 1 at the five-month-old restaurant.

There was my first course, for example: a modest but soul-satisfying square of plump pork belly ($6) scattered with caramelized pineapple and resting on a bed of lu’au leaf and pureed kabocha pumpkin. The locally grown Shinsato pork was near-perfect, neither falling apart fatty nor overdone stringy, as so often is the case with tricky pork belly, which generally requires a twice-cooked technique (braising, then roasting or some other dry-heat method) to be at its best.

This dish is on a new and a wide-ranging menu of small-plate dishes that DeAngelo and Kuoha developed just last month.

My friend was equally pleased with her more conventional first course: buttery herbed mushrooms ($6), presented sizzling in a miniature black cast iron pan. “I’d like to pop that pan in my purse,” she said.

But just then, DeAngelo came by, so theft was prevented. He had stopped first at the table next to us where a young couple and their months-old infant were enjoying an early pupu dinner. He not only welcomed the young one, but offered to treat the child to his first restaurant meal: mashed Okinawan sweet potato or kabocha pumpkin. “I had some poi yesterday,” DeAngelo said with a smile, “but I ate it.”

This little story goes to other thing that caused us to leave The Grove smiling and satisfied: It’s a really warm and friendly place. Watching people mingle at the bar and in the covered outdoor courtyard, lounging on living room-like sofas, chatting with staff, I broke into TV’s hoary “Cheers” song before my friend gave me the “Don’t EVEN…” look. “Sometimes you want to GO where everybody knows your NA-A-AME, and they’re always glad you came.”

The food and well-trained service is white tablecloth (entrees $16-$34). But the mood is palaka-covered picnic table. A rare and sweet balance.

Service is attentive and caring. When I ordered a cranberry and soda, I was asked, first time ever, if I preferred a wedge or a wheel of lime.

Dinner for me was the fresh fish of the night, a huge slab of monchong on a gorgeous, vegetable scattered plate with orzo ($27). (Whatever you order at The Grove, you’ll get your daily requirement of vegetables, organic when available.) Although the sauce — something salmon-colored and probably tomato-based — was unremarkable, the fish was so moist and fresh it didn’t matter.

My friend had the first risotto of her life: two scarlet lobster claws perched atop corn, tomato, sea asparagus and imported rice ($31). The risotto was, for once, the correct texture: creamy and loose, oozing with rich, starchy juice, but with the rice just a bit al dente at the center. She was delighted and even I, not a lobster fan, thought it was excellent.

The meal tripped only over the dessert. Two new desserts had just been unveiled: bread pudding made with Agnes’ Bakery sweetbread and caramel sauce and fresh fruit tarts with Chantilly cream ($6). I opted for the tarts (you get two) because my full-o-meter was just a skosh “over.” I wish now I’d gone with my first instinct, the sweetbread. The fruit, including thin-sliced local mango, kiwi and strawberries, was, indeed fresh. The cream inside wasn’t what I recognize as Chantilly cream, but it was okay. But the pastry tarts were hard and tasteless, as though prebaked.

My much-smarter-than-me-yet-again friend ordered the vanilla bean panna cotta ($6). She let me have one bite. One. Friends for decades and that’s all it’s worth to you? Really? The melting, so creamy Italian-style pudding reminded me of an occasion, years ago, when I tasted whole milk minutes from milking time at a cousin’s dairy farm: Rich and sweet but in a natural, unadorned way. I’ll never forgive her for not sharing.

Her dessert came with a scattering of gigantic, perfectly ripe fresh raspberries. At least I got to eat those.

THE GROVE
33 Aulike St., Kailua. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10pm; full bar; credit cards accepted. 262-2898, [grovekailua.com]


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This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.