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Liliha Bakery, cinnamon twists
Image: DilMichael

Hidden Goodies in Familiar Places

Popular local bakeries must have more to offer than their star treats…right?

Local bakeries are built upon tradition.

Tradition springs from family and customer loyalty, the hope being that, even when times change, traditions won’t.

And that’s exactly how the bakeries in Hawaii have grown–at least, the ones that traverse the journey from humble beginnings into gold namesakes–such as Zippy’s, Leonard’s, La Tour Bakehouse (Ba-Le’s new parent company name) and Liliha Bakery. All ring a bell with locals; the very sight of their boxes or bags cause watered mouths.

Each of these four are known for one particular specialty: Zippy’s for their Napples (puff pastry apple turnovers), Leonard’s for malasadas, La Tour for breads (especially baguette, but more recently for more hearty country loaves) and Liliha Bakery, of course, for coco-puffs (chocolate pudding filled pate choux with chantilly cream). But what about their other selections? What are the other edible gems, overshadowed by the best sellers?

Determined to dig deeper past the headliners, I asked around for suggestions that might point me toward other promising, tasty offerings. I discovered that many people actually have other favorites about which they feel strongly. Recommendations were surprisingly unanimous: the Dream Cake from Zippy’s ($2.62 a slice), raisin snails from Leonard’s ($1.25), palmiers from La Tour ($4.50 a bag) and cinnamon twists from Liliha Bakery ($1.40).

And so the investigation began: awkwardly calling and visiting each bakery to ask for quotes, (“Hi, I’m from the Honolulu Weekly, may I get a quote about one of your pastries?”) while attempting to explain why I wasn’t writing about their famous goodies. (“Okay, you want to know about our cocoa puffs?…No?…”) The responses turned out to be curious, if anything, toward my illustrious food expedition, and it proved harder than I expected to find out more about the four different bakeries and pastries.

Zippy’s was the only restaurant who returned my emails through the first round of correspondence, being incredibly accommodating, but the other three bakeries, after a second round of contact via phone, kept redirecting me (to my slight chagrin).

Getting to taste the four pastries was a different story. Dealing with sweets is a completely different experience than dealing with people; they can’t talk back or ignore your calls.

The Dream Cake from Zippy’s really does evoke recollections of dreams, fluffy pillows and air mattresses. From the exterior, covered with curled-by-hand chocolate shavings, to the light chocolate chiffon cake, each bite is its own bit of rich decadence. My favorite part about the cake is the light whipped cream icing, which is a nice change from the heavy buttercream frosting used in most cakes.

Jan Tsukazaki from Zippy’s describes the company’s thoughts on the Dream Cake, likening it to “a little bit of chocolate heaven.” A bite of the light cake doesn’t exactly transport me to a world above, but it is memorable. “The star of the cake are the chocolate curls,” Tsukazaki explains, and for chocolate lovers, I can imagine it is so. The curls are fun to pick off and save for last luxurious bites.

Before cinnamon rolls became faddish, there was the humble breakfast snail. Even the name sounds like an underdog–who really wakes up wanting to a pastry called a snail? After some hesitation, my friend Tricia and I decided to try Leonard’s raisin snail. At first glance, the snail doesn’t look like much, a glazed roll with sprinkled raisins. However, to my pleasant surprise, Leonard’s raisin snail tastes freshly baked, simple and not overly sweet. My first bite was deep and satisfying, very different from most breakfast cinnamon rolls dunked in icing. Tricia liked the denseness of the snail, while I took a liking to the unique frosting, which tasted curiously like a mix between pineapple and guava.

Upon trying to get a quote from the ladies at the Leonard’s counter about their unfamiliar goodies, I ended up going through the line twice, getting rejected the first time by a prompt, “No.” Turns out, only Leonard Rego, Jr., himself speaks for his company. However, one of the kind workers took pity on me and offered to take my phone number, promising that a manager would contact me soon. I never got that call.

When I first heard about palmiers, I couldn’t imagine how a simple twist of flaky dough could be considered extraordinary. My frame of reference for baked pastry dough falls upon mediocre experiences with stale turnovers and bland chicken pot pie. But after tasting La Tour/Ba-Le’s palmiers, it became clear that they are doing something right. The baked-in crystallized sugary crust encasing the twisted palmier provides just the right contrast to the flaky inside. Somehow, this combination brings the palmier beyond the simple into the elegant.

Thi Lam, Sales and Marketing Manager at La Tour Bakehouse explains that “palmier” means “palm tree” in French, possibly in reference to its grooved shape. They’re baked as thin layers of dough, rolled out with butter and sugar in between, which give the palmiers a distinct crunch and subtle sweetness. “It’s a great accompaniment to tea or coffee,” she said. Just thinking about it makes me want to drink some English tea, pinkies up. Since La Tour bakes for all the Ba-Le sandwich shops, catering operations and other outlets, Lam says that they also offer their palmiers at Foodland and various farmers markets.

As for cinnamon twists, well, those have been tried and done by other bakeries–Cinnabon and Taco Bell have their variations. The crunchy treat is topped with sugar and cinnamon, which is either dusted on top or baked in. What results is a mix between extreme textures and gratification for anyone with a sweet tooth. Sounds simple enough, but it turns out, Liliha Bakery’s version is most memorable.

One of the ladies who helped me at the bakery noted that their cinnamon twists are actually pretty popular amongst regulars. “A lot of people like it,” she commented, and continued to describe the twists “like churros, but harder. Like a French doughnut.” Since I had never heard of their version, I decided to set my expectations high, based on her description. The cinnamon twist is extremely sweet, with its caramelized sugar and cinnamon glaze baked right into the dense dough. Each bite closely resembles a caramel consistency, but is not too intense to risk a sugar high. One cinnamon twist left me well satisfied.

All four of these pastries have one commonality. They’re all time-tested goodies that just happen to be overshadowed by currently popular items. Clearly, there’s more to the picture than what is advertised, and the four respective bakeries thankfully have continued to bake these products for those diehards who have loved them all along.

Zippy’s Restaurant
Various locations, 1765 S. King St., 973-0880, [zippys.com]
Leonard’s Bakery,
933 Kapahulu Ave., Open Sun.–Thu. 5:30am–10pm, Fri.–Sat. 5:30am–11pm, 737-5591, [leonardshawaii.com]
La Tour Bakehouse,
Various Ba-Le locations plus, 888 N. Nimitz Hwy. #102, 847-4600, [ba-le.com]
Liliha Bakery
515 N. Kuakini St., Open 24 hrs from Tue. 6am–Sun. 8pm, closed Mon., 531-1651, [lilihabakeryhawaii.com]


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This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

Beautifully designed, with outstanding photography of India and Tibet by Linda Connor, the newest edition of Manoa is especially ambitious in its choice of subject/theme. It attempts to present diverse interpretations of the meanings and implications of the term “freedom,” doing so in the forms of fiction, essays, poetry, memoir and drama.

Gardens

This new book of poetry is easy to read, yet I had all kinds of strange dreams after reading it. The poems are short but poignant–a lot of thought and crafting went into every well-placed word.

Brotherly Tears

When the young narrator, Landon DeSilva, of Tyler Miranda’s novel Ewa Which Way, watches an episode of “Leave It To Beaver,” he sees a family whose idea of discipline is a father and son discussion without “head cracks” or “cuss words.” In the episode, Eddie Haskell and Wally Cleaver talk about the Beaver’s highjinks, and Landon’s friend says, “just like your brudda . .

Community

In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

In Wing Tek Lum’s poem “The Red Circle,” a sergeant teaches his soldiers how to use a bayonet during Japan’s infamous occupation of Nanjing, China in 1937: “With a nub of red chalk / our sergeant marks off / a crude circle in the center / of the chest.” The men are instructed to stab everywhere, except the heart. A quick death would be too kind–too merciful.

Wit

“We are selves in a world because we have words,” writes the late poet Tony Quagliano in the preface of his book, Language Matters. In this masterful collection, every line absorbs the reader into the writer’s world, revealing his intimate thoughts on politics, writing, Hawaii and life.

The Romance of Sunset

A sort of team anthology, Sunset Inn: Tales from the North Shore is a collection of fiction, poetry and a play published by the Aloha Romance Writers, who admittedly chose–over margaritas and Mexican food–the conceit of a colonial-style seaside inn, described in Patrice Wilson’s poem “This Haven” as “white as salt” and “bleached coral in the sea,” as a central setting for their book. Like the landscape and the building, the collection holds stories of love found, lost and always remembered, some of which are based in Hawaii history and some from a contemporary eye, but all adhering to the familiar elements of the romance genre and the romantic.

Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

Reassembling

The reader weary of cutesy novels with multiple story lines that are obviously going to be inextricably tied together, somehow, might not want to venture too far into Darien Gee’s The Avalon Ladies Scrapbooking Society. But if it’s comfort food for the brain you’re after, you’d be missing out.

Green Noir

Set in Hawaii, Saving Paradise, Mike Bond’s sixth detective novel, tells a passable if unevenly written story featuring one Pono Hawkins, a Special Forces vet (Afghanistan), celebrated international surfer and correspondent for ocean magazines. He also insinuates himself into the woes of others, in this case a beautiful young thing whose lifeless body bumps into Hawkins as he goes surfing at dawn.

Decolonizing Our Future

Confucius said, “If your plan is for one year, plant rice; if your plan is for 10 years, plant trees; if your plan is for 100 years, educate children.” The philosopher’s sagacious message seems to align with the alternative approach to education seen in Hawaii’s charter school system. Noelani Goodyear-Kaopua’s The Seeds We Planted is an ethnography articulating the establishment, growth, and success of Halau Ku Mana, one of the few Hawaiian culture-based charter schools in Honolulu.

Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

Think Pink

There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

A deeply researched and careful weaving of previously unheard voices can be found in Mai Lepera, adding another layer about leprosy patients exiled to settlements at Makanalua peninsula in the 19th century. Keri A.

Transcending Prejudice

If resiliency spoke of a group of people, the Japanese population of the then-Territory of Hawaii during World War II claims the description. With one specific attack on December 7, 1941, an island-wide prejudice against all immigrant Japanese was born, painting a picture of angry nationals who plotted Hawaii’s demise.

Mano

An ambitious, immensely rewarding product of nearly five decades’ research and teaching (beginning when the author was l3 years old), Patrick Vinton Kirch’s A Shark Going Inland is my Chief bids fair to be a definitive, almost exhaustive look at “the island civilization of ancient Hawaii.” Divided into three major parts, Shark starts with Cook’s arrival when Hawaii was four major kingdoms in the midst of creating stratified societies.Kirch deals with religion, evolving social structures and belief systems to make ancient Hawaii come alive. Especially noteworthy are beautiful descriptions of the making of canoes, particularly the vaka moana, capable of transporting families.

Charts for the Band

Music stores abound with compilations of “50 Favorite Songs” for everything from jazz to the Beatles to Bach. Now it’s time for the mid-20th century music of Hawaii.

Racism of Record

Compiled by Christopher LaVoie, Annexation! presents the imperialist agendas of the U.S.

Charting Our Ancestral Past

Hawaiki Rising by Sam Low tells the epic saga of voyaging on the Hokulea, which, as every Island schoolchild should know, is a traditionally constructed Hawaiian sailing vessel that is steered by observing natural elements, without instruments or maps. Low, a part-Hawaiian anthropologist who participated in three voyages, follows the Hokulea through conception, construction, and navigation.

From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

Bearded beauties

Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

Charlotte A. Tomaino, neuropsychologist and former nun, started with the intriguing concept of explaining how grace and spirituality can “awaken” the brain to a fuller potential through expanded consciousness.

The Naked Truth

Sharon Hicks’ How Do You Grab a Naked Lady recounts the relationship between Hicks, her mentally ill mother and idealist father. We meet Hicks at age 16 as she witnesses her mother parading around a mall in the buff, yelling and cursing–one of many manic episodes we’ll see during the book.

Last Train to Ho’opili?

One paradox of TheLast Train to Zona Verde, Paul Theroux’s 46th book and his latest about Africa, is that it’s also one of the best meditations on Hawaii you’ll ever read. But first, why Africa?

Every Reader for Himself

Confirming rumors, Barnes & Noble’s (B&N) Kahala Mall bookstore will close when its lease expires in January 2014. There are no current reports concerning B&N’s Ala Moana location, but it’s probably a matter of when, not if, management installs a T-shirt store.

Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

We were out at Tongg’s surf break when the world’s best-traveled writer paddled past in a kayak. I said, “Paul Theroux?” Mindy nodded.

CIVIX

KAKAAKO MEETINGS The HCDA will host a series of meetings to discuss the Kakaako redevelopment plan and how rail will fit in with those plans. The meetings are open to the public.

Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

Mayor Caldwell is winding down his public town-hall meetings campaign. The meetings are designed to update the public on the progress of the Mayor’s major first-year initiatives: repaving the roads, getting TheBus routes restored, making the city’s parks beautiful, fixing Honolulu’s sewer infrastructure, building rail better and, most recently, solving homelessness.

Pacific Pivot

During a 2011 speech to the Australian Parliament, President Obama declared: “The United States will play a larger and long term role in shaping [the Pacific] region and its future.” On May 10, the Center for Strategic and International Studies (CSIS) Pacific Forum hosted a panel discussion that sought to determine what a U.S. “pivot” toward the region would look like and what the reaction to increased U.S.

The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.