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Carlos Jimenez shows off Kokua Market’s local pork selection.
Image: Julia Wieting

Wanted: Local Pork

Bring home the bacon from independent stores and CSAs

There’s just something about pork that inspires salivation. Kalua pig, barbecue ribs, tonkatsu, lechon, pig’s feet. The Web world is reverent to abstraction about bacon, merchandising this obsession with logo T-shirts, coozies, whatever.

But for many cultures, pigs are not only food sources, but a quantification of wealth. Pigs are ceremonial food in China, Okinawa, Papua New Guinea and Samoa. That dual heritage of sustenance and value underlies the reason that pigs were first brought to Hawaii as an essential foodstuff for making homes on new islands. Even in the 20th century, hog farming helped to diversify Hawaii’s waning plantation economy.

Yet today, in the midst of rising locavorism and a greater awareness of food security, local pork languishes behind the curve. While shoppers can find varieties of “island beef” at many supermarkets, it’s nearly impossible to find “island pork” in the meat section. If you can, chances are that the pig was not raised on-island at all. Glenn Shinsato, co-owner of Shinsato Farms in Kahaluu with his wife, Amy, notes that “the term ‘island pork’ or ‘local pork’ only means that it was slaughtered here. It may have been raised elsewhere [and] shipped here.”

“The local pork industry has been on a declining trend for decades,” explains Dan Nakasone, co-founder of She Grows Food, a social enterprise firm that supports women working in agriculture. He names “competition with imported pork, cost of imported feed, no generational succession, development encroachment [and] waste issues” as reasons.

If you find local pork, chances are it came from Shinsato Farms’s slaughterhouse. “Amy has been supplying Higa Meats, who distributes the products to several restaurants,” Nakasone says, adding that Shinsato’s is “the only [locally] branded pork I know of, other than Kaneshiro Farm pork on Kauai.” Higa Meats also retails Shinsato pork, as does Kokua Market.

Lynette Larson, general manager of Kokua Market, emailed me a picture of its freezer aisle, chock-full of tidy Shinsato packages. She proudly emphasizes the co-op’s relationship with the farm. “We feel really lucky to be able to offer Shinsato pork . . . When we made the commitment to Glenn and Amy, we stopped carrying any mainland pork.” Although local pork is likely to be more expensive than not, one advantage to buying community-raised is knowing that money and precious expertise stays in local hands. Kokua’s cooperative owners have the added bonus of a 20-cent-per-pound discount on all local meat products.

Or, as Larson puts it, the quality is worth the cost. “I’m a vegetarian, but when I cook Shinsato for my family, it reminds me of growing up in rural Montana where my parents would buy half hogs . . . [to] feed our family of 11. It just smells like it’s supposed to, and the fat content is super low.”

Another way to access high-quality local pork is to participate in Oahu Fresh’s new pork-share with Shinsato Farms. Oahu Fresh operates a community-supported agriculture (CSA) program, a distribution system for small farmers who otherwise might not be able to reach many consumers. According to co-owner Matt Johnson, the Shinsatos approached Oahu Fresh “because they were looking for more ways to distribute their product and liked the CSA concept.”

With this subscription, customers sign up in advance for a share of a pig. When 10 shares have been purchased, the pig is slaughtered. Shares cost $75, and customers can expect 10 to 15 pounds of meat in various cuts. Cuts include shoulder roasts, pork chops, ground pork, pork belly and ham hocks. Two pigs have been butchered so far, and Johnson expects to continue every other month. “Slaughtering on demand is easy to manage,” he says, “but there’s some give-and-take on the market end. Not everyone wants a mystery bag full of random cuts of meat, so you have to be adventurous.”

In the end, the lack of places selling local pork boils down to market decline: Oahu vendors only offer pork from one farm. That farm rightly has a lot of fans, but a healthy market would allow more farmers to get in the game.

According to Amy Shinsato, the problem is poor infrastructure and the lack of farms. “It would be possible for other slaughterhouses to be built, but first there must be a supply of animals going through for it to be feasible. [Glenn and I] would definitely support this idea, because we both feel that the hog production in Hawaii is on a decline.”

Effective distribution is key to the industry’s survival. While small farmers have a better shot at grabbing some market share with a CSA, stores offer reliability. Considering how much meat people consume (the USDA estimates that one person eats about 50 pounds of pork per year) and how most of the pork we eat in Hawaii is imported, it is crucial for local pork’s–and your stomach’s–long-term success to make pork more available. But if you want it, you have to ask for it.

Higa Meat & Pork Market, Ltd.
225 N. Nimitz Hwy., open Mon.–Fri., 6:30am–3pm, [higafoodservice.com], calling ahead is advised, 531-3591
Kokua Market
2643 S. King St., open daily 8am–9pm, [kokua.coop], 941-1922
Oahu Fresh
845 Queen St. Ste. 203, check website for delivery info, [oahufresh.com], 221-0921


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This week

2013 Summer Books

On a breezy May evening, in the courtyard of the state library, local publishers, writers and book designers gathered to celebrate the 2013 Ka Palapala Pookela Awards, sponsored by the Hawaii Book Publishers Association. The place was packed, and I was struck by such a healthy showing for an industry whose demise has been predicted since before the advent of Amazon.

Unlikely Pairings

I was intrigued recently to channel surf upon a deft interview of Susanna Moore on PBS Hawaii. Moore is the nationally acclaimed author of nine books, perhaps best known for her luminous My Old Sweetheart and other Hawaii novels, as well as the rough-sex 2004 noir In the Cut.

A Long Lost Era

Kabuki Boy, a novel, reads almost like an autobiography filled with vivid details that transport us to 19th-century Japan during the “Tokugawa Era.” Fast-paced and humorous, it aptly dramatizes an ancient dramatic art. The hierarchy between the social classes of samurai, geisha, peasants and monks comes alive from the page, seen through the eyes of Myo, a young boy aspiring to become a kabuki actor.

Panek Point

Calling this big fat novel Hawaii was bound to raise eyebrows. Hey, come run to the schoolyard to watch Mark Panek throw down!

Inward Journey

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Gardens

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Brotherly Tears

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In a poetry class I teach at Windward Community College, a student recently did a presentation on coming-out poems and presented her own. One of her peers asked a thoughtful question: “If you are a gay, are you automatically part of the gay community?” It’s a question I’ve had about being Asian American–and a poet.

Cruelty

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Wit

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The Romance of Sunset

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Love Lore

In Huna Magic: The Hawaiian Odyssey, Dawn Star puts on a modern spin on Hawaiian mythology and folklore. Set in ancient Hawaii, the book starts off with the classic forbidden love story between a young woman, Kuulei ke Anuenue and a handsome man, Kai, who happens to be the chiefess’s love slave.

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Green Noir

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Navigating Selves

Leilani Holmes’s richly chronicled journey toward a reconnection with her Kanaka Maoli culture opens with the epigraph: “For those who came before us. In hopes that we act on behalf of your bones.” Ancestry of Experience is a thoroughly researched and deeply genealogical journey.

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There’s something foreboding about the cover of Pink Globalization. It’s a dark, monochromatic picture of an enormous grey Hello Kitty gazing ominously into the night in front of a corporate-looking building. The picture is certainly intriguing and symbolic–Hello Kitty is taking over the world.

Hardships, Loneliness, Triumphs

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Transcending Prejudice

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Mano

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Charts for the Band

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Racism of Record

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Charting Our Ancestral Past

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From the Outside

The feeling of being an outsider in one’s beloved homeland is the theme underpinning Pamela Frierson’s fluid and honest nature writing. In her books, The Last Atoll: Exploring Hawaii’s Endangered Ecosystems and The Burning Island: Myth and History in Volcano Country, Hawaii, Frierson explores Hawaii’s unique ecosystems, while also searching for personal relevance where she grew up very aware of being merely a “second-generation colonist.” The shadows of a world unknown drive the writer, teacher and homesteader to attach to the landscape, pursuing a deeper understanding of Hawaii’s natural order, and, through those experiences, a sense of belonging.

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Donald Hodel’s Loulu: The Hawaiian Palm is winner of this year’s Ka Palapala Award for Excellence in Natural Science. Loulu the Hawaiian Palm Donald R.

Missed Connections

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The Naked Truth

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Island Girl

Last weekend, Susanna Moore was in town to read from her new novel, The Life of Objects. A striking beauty–high cheekbones, fine features, long white hair with an inky streak that matches her brilliant black eyes–she wore a sleeveless blouse, full cotton skirt and rubber slippers.

A Traveling Light

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CIVIX

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Make Our Day

On May 13, Common Cause Hawaii assembled a panel, titled “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly,” to deconstruct lessons from the recently ended 2013 Legislative Session. Commentators included Rep.

Homeless Plan

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Pacific Pivot

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The homeless experience

I picked up your May 15 issue with great anticipation because on the cover was a photo of a person experiencing homelessness who I have had numerous interactions with (“Derelict Downtown,” May 15). He is someone I have always found to be articulate and friendly–an ideal person to talk to if one wishes to learn about experiencing homelessness.

Hawaiian rights

The puppetmasters controlling the creation of the Hawaiian Nation have manipulated Hawaiians who have signed up for any Hawaiian registry to become captive members of Kanaiolowalu, the Native Hawaiian Roll Commission. Those bills were heard this session and were passed by the Senate in the Tourism and Hawaiian Affairs Committee chaired by Brickwood Galuteria and the Judiciary and Labor Committe chaired by Clayton Hee, although the forced enrollment is unconstitutional.

Money over land

The Land Use Commission, the Honolulu Planning Commission, the Zoning Variance Commissions and all the other BS commissions are hijacked by big business (“Hoopili Miss,” May 15). Judge Rhonda Nishimura’s head is buried in the sand if she doesn’t recognize the votes were bought.

Cinema for all

I try to not miss a Redford film, and, of course, I can relate to events of the ’60s (“Last Round-Up,” May 8). It is disappointing that The Company You Keep is being shown only at Kahala Theatre.

Tea time

Aloha, I am Elyse. Please let me know if you have any questions, I would love to answer them (“Just Our Cup of Tea,” May 15).

Corrections

In last week’s “Derelict Downtown” (May 15), we mistakenly listed Kirk Caldwell’s campaign phone number. To contact the Mayor, please call 768-4141.