Restaurants

Making signature tacos at Surf N Turf.
Image: Nina Buck

Some Like It Hot

New Mexican joints, por favor.

Mexican food in Hawaii is notoriously hit-and-miss. We have our favorites: Serg’s in Manoa and Waimanalo, and Mexico in Kalihi (at least for the tequila selection), but anybody from the Southwest misses prodigality of Tex-Mex choices. That’s why, when I noticed that a taco joint, Surf N Turf Tacos, had recently taken over the old L&L location on Monsarrat Avenue, I was stoked! You see, the Diamond Head community could use a good taco shop on this side of town. I wanted–needed to check it out. But I wasn’t going to stop there. My discovery inspired me to compare the tacos of Surf N Turf with la cocina of an established favorite, El Burrito, to see how a new spot stacks up to the tried and true.

Surf N Turf Tacos

Good music, friendly servers and surf videos on a big screen above the register lend a hip atmosphere to Surf N Turf.

My partner and I went for breakfast. Pots of beans and rice bubbled on the stovetop. Photos of swells decorated the walls. This place resembles its name, that’s for sure. My partner ordered a steak and egg burrito ($8.95): Eggs, potatoes, beans, cheese and guacamole balanced nicely together without being too overpowered by seasoning. Oh, and the potatoes I nabbed from his plate melted in my mouth. My partner wanted to try all three hot salsas at the bar: a green tomatillo salsa, a housemade red (tangy, garlicky, slightly salty puree) and a creamy salsa to pair with fish. His dish wasn’t bland, he just likes salsa. I ordered two vegetarian breakfast tacos ($3.50 each), which were beautifully presented. The bell peppers were crispy, the eggs fluffy, guacamole creamy and tangy, the potatoes a crumbly perfection. The whole thing was topped with fresh pico de gallo (tomato salad).

We had just cleaned our plates when owner Andrew Robertson emerged from the kitchen, greeting us with a big smile and warm handshake. He recognized us from surfing in town and sat down to talk story. His friendliness was typical of the shop: The nice guy behind the counter complimented my partner’s order before preparing it.

Robertson is an Aussie surfer, a new face to Oahu. His business partner Robert Delucas is a Southern Californian who brought his passion for Mexican food into the kitchen, which opened last September.

I would have gotten one of the homemade chocolate chip cookies ($1.95) on our way out–but my stomach was totally happy with the tacos. The food was light but satisfying; a nice find in a usually hefty taco joint. Next time, I’ll also go for Kona Coffee or a tall glass of horchata–a classic Mexican almond and cinnamon rice drink. Oooh, or a frosty brew (but maybe not at breakfast). Surf N Turf is definitely one of my new favorites.

El Burrito

El Burrito, on the other hand, isn’t new–it’s a classic. Owner Yolanda Manrique was as charming as the atmosphere at her time-tested Mexican kitchen, smiling softly as she described her sentiments behind El Burrito and its 28-year long journey. “I’m here every day, all day, but it’s what I do,” she seemed to chant. “28 years, but it’s coming to its time, it’s almost time.” Her smile turned into a laugh and she and her granddaughter–one of the many family members who help Manrique run the place–joked about how they should close shop tomorrow.

It’s amusing that burrito is literally Spanish for “little donkey,” as burro means donkey, and the suffix -ito refers to its size. The etymology is highly disputed, but maybe it’s that burritos look like the little bags they carried. El Burrito is a quaint cocina tucked into a shopping plaza on Piikoi Street. Manrique is from Mexico City and the buzzing conversations from her family and employees were frequently in Spanish.

Eaters seemed to really know the place. Very few stopped by without issuing a cheerful greeting to the kitchen and staff.

I sipped on a refreshing house-made limeade ($2.00)–not too sweet or too sour. It was good, but it would’ve been better if mixed with a cold Corona.

I chose the veggie enchiladas ($10.25), a nice mix of hearty zucchini, celery, peas, carrots and potatoes, topped with sweet, dark mole. Cheese is on top and doesn’t weigh down the dish. Mole is a classic sauce, originally from Oaxaca, and often made chile and chocolate. El Burrito’s is rich, but not heavy. My partner ordered chicken tamales with rice and beans($11), extra hot. He discovered his tamales were moist, tender in texture and loved it covered in red sauce, saturated with cheese and fresh, sliced jalapeños. On the downside, El Burrito was out of my favorite: flan… Shucks! But I really couldn’t complain, being stuffed.

“Our food, it’s Americanized,” Manrique admitted, with a smile. “Almost everything is made here,” she added, before giving me a hug and pat on the back as any family member would. 30 minutes eating at El Burrito and I was already at home. Both of my newfound Mexican joints filled me up and set me out, ready to surf the next unstoppable wave! Andale!

Surf N Turf Tacos
3045 Monsarrat Ave., Mon.–Sun., 8am–8:30pm, 456-5345, BYOB with $5 corkage
El Burrito
550 Piikoi St., Mon.–Sat., 11am–8pm, 596-8225, BYOB no corkage


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This week

Honolulu Confidential

For this year’s Food + Drink issue, we compiled 100-plus memories of the fantastic bites we’ve taken, the culinary experiences we’ve undergone and other tasteful moments of absolutely loving what Hawaii’s food scene has to offer. The result is a mixed plate of the Weekly ‘ohana’s favorite dishes, libations, produce, places and some lesser-known joys.

Favorite Dishes

Respect Your Veg At long last, vegetables are being recognized as culinary stars. The following dishes have two things in common: They’re veggie-centric, if not strictly vegetarian, and best eaten on the spot.

Noodles

Paitan Broth: Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya If you’re a ramen lover, you know the most important element of the bowl is the broth. At Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya, the paitan broth ($9.95 for paitan chashu ramen) is deeply savory.

Baked Goods

Naan: Cafe Maharani “The dough is just special,” says owner Chris Rahman of Cafe Maharani. The naan ($2.99) is made to order and handled very delicately.

Mean But Worth It

Asian: Green Door Cafe Enter into Green Door Cafe to find a whole ‘nother world. Owner Betty Peng is a one-woman show (don’t start with her, or else) and cooks all of her Singaporean dishes to order.

RIP

Byron’s Drive-in The vacant, former Byron’s Drive-in building still stands near the airport since closing its doors in February. “We’d always go [to Byron’s] late at night,” says Sabrina Thompson, a Tripler Hospital nurse.

Meat

Shinsato Pork: Guava Smoked Scott Shibuya of Guava Smoked made a splash in the farmers’ market scene with his finger-licking good, guava wood-smoked Shinsato Pork. “I really wanted to be my own boss,” he says.

Dairy

Cheese: Surfing Goat Dairy Owners Thomas and Eva Kafsack moved from Germany to Maui and found that they missed receiving fresh goat cheese from their neighbors’ backyards. A few goats from the Big Island (and a huge investment) later, Surfing Goat Dairy was born.

Snacks & Desserts

Decadent Fries: Home Bar and Grill These aren’t ordinary fried potatoes. Chef Neil Nakasone’s Parmesan truffle fries ($8) are an elite class of spuds.

Pop-Ups

Rotations: Taste Some might say Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi and partner Amanda Corby, with the help of another power couple, Poni and Brandon Askew of StreetGrindz, fleshed out the pop-up trend with Taste. But: “Actually, Adam is Taste,” Gooch explains, referring to Taste’s general manager, Adam Lock.

Healthy

Healthy Food Truck: Beet Box Cafe The Beet Box Cafe is a sit-down eatery located in Haleiwa Town, but their bright yellow lunch wagon is also worth following. The lunchtruck serves organic, vegetarian burritos ($7-10), a special of the day made with farm-to-table ingredients ($10-12), smoothies ($7.50), kombucha ($5) and snacks such as baked goods and dried fruits ($3).

Seafood

A Cook’s Catch When it comes to fish, freshness really matters, so eating local from our Hawaiian waters is always in the best of taste. Health and sustainability also count.

To-Go

Whole Foods & Down To Earth Down to Earth offers strictly vegetarian delights such as Bombay spinach, eggplant parmesan, stuffed shells, Thai curry and vegetable korma ($9.59/pound). The tofu and eggplant are always sourced from local producers.

‘Aina

Edible Land: Permablitz Fruit trees flourish in Hawaii but sadly, much goes to waste. Permablitz aims to change that.

Fruits

Foraging: Strawberry Guava at Waahila Ridge Strawberry guava is invasive to Hawaii, which is why I don’t feel an ounce of guilt picking the small, red fruits in (free!) handfuls whenever I hike up Waahila Ridge. When they’re a light red color, just pull them off the trees, check for bug-made holes and bite in.

Spices

Nutmeg and Cloves: Frankie’s Nursery Want to spice up your kitchen? Lynn Tsuruda of Frankie’s Nursery says they sell spices grown in Hawaii, by the plant or the fruit.

Specialty Markets

Filipino: Pacific Drive out to Central Oahu and find Pacific Supermarket, a haven for all things Southeast Asian. With the Leeward community’s large Filipino population, access to local favorites at Pacific is a big deal.

Lesser Known

Korean Chew: Taegu Taegu, more properly pronounced as dae-goo, is either a variety of cod, sliced into strips and seasoned, or a seasoned side dish. There is some confusion, as I came to realize while asking my born-and-raised-in-Korea mom, because those side dishes are made with different fish.

Coffee & Tea

Matcha Latte: Peace Cafe Peace Cafe, a second home for vegans, carries a matcha (green tea) latte with a secret. “The first sip is always the most important,” explains an employee.

Healthy

Good For You: Kombucha A SCOBY is a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast integral to making kombucha. Kombucha, a fizzy tea, is full of promises to boost detoxification, immunity and digestion and joint health.

Cooking Classes

Free: Whole Foods Whole Foods Market Kahala offers free cooking classes at CookSpace in Ward Warehouse. “We just did a Health Starts Here cooking class,” says Whole Foods marketing supervisor Natalie Aczon.

Alcohol

Wine Tasting: Kalapawai Cafe Every second Sunday of the month at 3:30 p.m., Kalapawai Cafe holds a free wine tasting. “We [have] five wines.

Aloha ‘ino

Dear Friends, Readers, and Advertisers, I am sorry to say that this will be the last issue of the Weekly that we will print. I am sad about closing but I see no way that we can maintain our revenue stream and our fiscal health.

Phasing

Native Hawaiians and preservationists have pledged to fight a law, signed by Gov. Neil Abercrombie on May 28, that will allow some construction projects to begin before the site has been fully inspected for ancient burials.

A Food Forest

Imagine you’re walking through downtown Honolulu and, rather than bypassing an empty, blighted park, you’re drawn into an urban oasis–a forest of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. You could spend your lunch break chatting with friends in the shade of an ‘ulu tree–and, if you’re hungry, pick whatever’s in season.

CIVIX

Road Rule On May 20, Gov. Abercrombie signed Act 73, requiring all vehicle passengers to buckle up regardless of age or seating arrangement.

Hell No, GMO

Tourists enjoying the Waikiki waterfront were treated to Hawaiian phrases such as “Aole, aole, aole GMO!” chanted by protesters in the March Against Monsanto on Sat., May 25. Translation: No GMOs, ever.

Done Deals?

The Hawaii Community Development Authority (HCDA) made its proposed plan to redevelop the Kakaako district available to the community during an open house on Thu., May 23. HCDA Executive Director Tony Ching began with a presentation of the new Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) plan before letting residents ask questions.

TheBus

In 2011 the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) was tasked by then-Mayor Peter Carlisle’s administration to shave $10 million from its budget. Over the course of a year, several bus routes were cut and many more were shortened or reconfigured and the frequency of service decreased.

No one for GMO

You mentioned in your May 29 GMO article (“Big Pharm Fallout”) that GMO bans were placed on taro and coffee in 2008 in Kohala County. However it was an islandwide ban in Hawaii County.

Sovereignty issues

What a great quote: “I understand that it’s frustrating that we can’t get past the issue of homelessness . .

Not pono

I know space is limited and you couldn’t put everything in one small article (“Art with HART,” May 29). Here is the rest of what I wanted to have said.

Git ‘er done

Have five or more contractors “compete” by tackling sections of roadway (“Road Repaving,” May 29). Criteria for competing are expenses, timeliness and a level of quality assurance standards.

A memoir’s reach

Thanks for this article (“The Naked Truth,” May 22), I’m Mykel Hicks, grandson of Sharon Hicks, and I am so proud of my grandma for all she has done for herself, this family and specifically me. She is an amazing grandma who comes with a moving story I hope can help people around the world.

Fix Kakaako

Please remind readers that the HCDA is not interested in providing housing for minimum wage individuals or families, but in providing property developers with profitable opportunities; that our ancient water and sewage lines were not designed to support the needs of thousands of condo and apartment dwellers, but no one is interested in replacing them because no one wants to pay the price (“Civix,” May 22). As a result, Kakaako’s streets are regularly flooded with no sidewalk retreat for pedestrians, wheelchairs, bicyclists, skateboarders, etc., and constantly excavated/repaired to accommodate one project after the other.