Honolulu Weekly

You know that friend you have, the one with great style who also happens to be a great listener? You know when she changes her hair or buys a new handbag, that it’s going to be classy and subtle and yet still stylish? That’s what the remodeled Hoku’s is like. The 10-year-old restaurant reopened last week after being closed for more than a month. Hoku’s features a revamped menu and interior, but it’s the same familiar face–only different. Sure, the waiters don sleek new chocolate-colored outfits. The floors are done up in classy woods. The lighting is sophisticated, the tabletops redone. The china and glassware feature top-of-the line names. Executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi traveled to the mainland to seek inspiration for the new menu and has come up with new classics to match the new decor. The Wisconsin Rack of Lamb arrives wrapped in a salt-crust dough and will be sliced and sauced tableside. Lobster and potato meet micro-greens and a beet reduction. The slow-braised Kahuku pork belly balances the tender, succulent meat with firm root vegetables. The new additions hit sophisticated notes and offer several crowd pleasers. Like that old friend, the changes are familiar, subtle and tasteful. It’s no extreme makeover.

The Kahala Hotel & Resort, 5000 Kahala Ave., Mon-Fri lunch 11:30am-2pm, Mon-Sun dinner 5:30-10pm, 739-8780