New & Noteworthy
New & Noteworthy 12-27-06
Diego’s Taco Shop
2239 S. King St. next to Old Stadium Park (944-2942). Mon-Sat 11am-8pm. Soft taco: $2-$3.85.
Combination plate: $5.50-$7. MC, V.
The Honolulu branch of this Pearl City eatery serves Mexican basics–burritos, tortas, enchiladas. But its fillings ain’t no Taco Bell ground beef. Get carne asada (marinated, grilled, chopped steak) and carnitas (lusciously greasy roasted pork). Everything, including refried beans and rice, is made fresh daily. The place is casual, with counter service.
Da Spot
1908 Pumehana St. between Waiola and Algaroba Sts. (941-1313). Mon-Sat 10am-9:30pm. Plate lunch: $6.50. Smoothies: $2.75-$3.75. Cash only.
Ahmed Ramadan and Ako Kifuji serve a lot of love along with their cheap, good food–the best of it Middle Eastern dishes based on recipes from Ramadan’s Egyptian family. SautÈed lamb with vegetables is a rich, red stew heady with cardomom and cinnamon. You can choose from 21 types of smoothies, too. There are just a few seats in the small storefront, so take your Styrofoam container of food to the park bench kitty corner to Da Spot for al fresco dining.
Daily Bread
1909 S. King St. (951-6634). Mon-Sat, 7am-7pm. Cash only.
With a dollop of European-style butter, something as simple as a slice of bread can be as exquisite and heartwarming as a fine chocolate truffle. Daily Bread makes a rare attempt to be a true boulangerie. Aside from baguettes, there are batards, boules, rectangular loaves of soft, sandwich bread, croissants, danishes, and–not French, but because everyone loves them–savory rolls filled with tuna or ham and cheese.
Dining Wataru
432 Ena Rd. (941-4200). Tue-Sun 5:30-9pm. Entrees:$7-$20. MC, V, AmEx, JCB.
The minimalist dÈcor belies the creative flair of owner and chef Wataru Nakanishi, who offers an extensive menu–18 appetizers and 25 entrees–of innovative, well presented Japanese plates. The deep-fried soft-shelled crab with pepperocino sauce is a zesty choice for seafood lovers, while the simmered beef tongue in a rich demi glace will satisfy the adventurous palette. Two can share the whimsical Jog Parfait for dessert.
Jane’s Fountain
1719 Liliha St. (533-1238). Mon-Fri 6am-10pm, Sat 7am-2:30pm, $2.50-$8. Cash only.
The cheeseburger deluxe is the thing to order at this retro throwback neighborhood joint. Deceptively simple and capable of generating cravings that you’ll drive crosstown to satisfy, these are like Mom should have made. Freshly formed patties achieve a crusted char while remaining tender and so juicy that they leave a puddle on the plate.
J at the Willows
901 Hausten St. between King St. and Kapi’olani Blvd. (952-6990). Tue-Sat 5:30-9pm. Starters: $8-$12. EntrÈes: $24-$31. AmEx, MC, V.
In what was known as the Rainbow Room, J at the Willows looks like part of a convention center, but the well-done food shows that Chef Jay Matsukawa has developed finesse. Dishes like tender lamb, slightly crunchy with a rub of toasted fennel and coriander, get classic presentation on bright white plates. Do order dessert–fruit, chocolate or vanilla done three ways.
Mama’s Korean Kitchen
611 Kapahulu Ave. at Ho’olulu St. (735-9933). Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Regular plate lunch: $5.30-$6.95. Cash only.
Who said there’s no such thing as a free lunch? Sign up for a frequent-eater card at Mama’s and you get your 11th lunch free. But you hardly need the incentive to eat the delicious spicy squid 10 times.
Mekong I
1295 S. Beretania St. (591-8841). Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, daily 5-9:30pm. Entrees $8.95-$13.95. AmEx, Disc, JCB, MC, V.
Honolulu’s first Thai restaurant is still its best. Dine on superior renditions of menu standards like fried calamari and spring rolls. The sublime Garlic Shrimp, cooked in a sauce of pepper, garlic and coconut milk, warrants new synonyms for ‘rich.’ There’s a Rasta stripe of excellent curries, all deepened and tempered with coconut milk. Two more reasons to love Mekong: BYOB and a brisk takeout business.
Spada
First Hawaiian Bank Center, street level, 999 Bishop St., entrance at Alakea and King Sts. (538-3332). Mon 11am-2:30pm; Tue-Fri 11am-4pm, 5pm-9pm. Tapas: $3-$9.95. EntrÈes: $5.95-$26.95. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.
While popular for lunch, this downtown Italian spot is just what you didn’t know you wanted for mellow after-work reverie. Kick off your merriment with a happy hour caipirinha or martini and an order of Thiago’s special dip with housemade bread. Tapas are just $6 from 5-7pm. Save room for zabaglione with mango sorbetto, an exclamation point of fruit and cream.
Ola
57-091 Kamehameha Hwy., Kahuku (293-0801), 11am-3pm & 5-9pm, Entrees: $16.95-$37.95. AmEx, Disc, MC, V.
In addition to regional standards like grilled ahi and miso butterfish, Chef Fred D’Angelo puts creative twists on Hawaiian favorites like the colorfully plated and loaded Kalua Pork and Goat Cheese Nachos. The Steamed Clams with a splendid roasted garlic white wine broth is the exceptional plate on the menu. Ola gives a valiant nod to the local clientele, using area produce like Kahuku corn. Chocolate lovers should not hesitate to order the Chocolate Decadence Cake.
Poke Stop
Waipahu Town Center, 94-050 Farrington Hwy. (676-8100). Mon-Sat 8am-7pm, Sun 8am-5pm. AmEx, MC, V.
Elmer Guzman, the former chef at Sam Choy’s Diamond Head Restaurant, opened this downscale takeout and market spot serving upscale plate lunch. You can pick up poi, bags of dried aku and a bowl of ‘deconstructed sushi’ along with daily specials such as perfectly seared opah in a deliciously salty broth swimming with Portuguese sausage chunks and cabbage. So what if it comes in a plastic bowl?
Taiyo Ramen
451 Pi’ikoi St. (589-2123). Mon-Sat 10-3am, Sun 10am-9pm. EntrÈes: $6.25-7.95. Cash only.
Some of the best things on Taiyo Ramen’s menu aren’t long and stringy. The real reason to come here is the chicken katsu curry rice. Thick, yellowish brown and slightly tangy with a spicy bite, the curry sauce was born to cling in globs to the generous plateful of rice and copulate with the fried chicken katsu. And hey, the noodles aren’t bad, either. Watch Korean soap operas on the flatscreen monitor as you dine.




