New & Noteworthy 05-02-07
Fook LamSeafood Restaurant
Chinatown Cultural Plaza, 100 N. Beretania St. (523-9168). Daily 8am-3pm and 5-10pm. Dim sum from $1.90. MC, V.
In this riverfront Chinatown dining room, the dim sum cart comes around more often than at the bigger dim sum palaces, and cheap prices mean your stomach can be as big as your eyes. Good basic dumplings and one of the few places serving Shanghai-style soup dumplings (though they’re not on the menu). Superior taro gok and shrimp gau, when hot out of the kitchen, are highlights. Augment your plate with a handful of filled look fun rolls and house specialty braised e-mein.
Goldfish
568 Halekauwila St. (721-8800). Daily 10:30am-2:30pm, 5-11pm. Lunch $3-$10, Dinner $5-$60. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Retro Michael Jackson and Elvis record covers smile down on you from behind the sushi bar. The fish is cut so large as to be unmanageable, but the sushi rice is among the best in town, and you can sample it in creative maki like the oyster gangster roll, with smoked oysters, smoked salmon and cream cheese. Don’t miss the fried kim chee with pork. Lunch features incredible bargains all under $10, including a superb seared ‘ahi sandwich.
Green Door Cafe
1145 Maunakea St. (533-0606). Tue-Sun 11am-3pm, 5:30-8pm. Entrees: $5.75-$7. Cash only.
Betty Pang offers her take on Malaysian staples and Nyonya cooking–the cuisine that evolved when Chinese settled in Malacca. The dishes change daily–you might have pork loin one day and fried pomfret the next. The food is fragrant with spices and seasonings like coriander, ginger and galangal. Best bet: roti canai (flat bread) dipped in the rich, chicken curry.
Holokai Grill
226 Lewers St., 2nd Floor, (924-7245). Lunch 10:30am-4pm, dinner 4-10:30pm bar open until 2am; Lunch: $8-$15, dinner: $15-$25. AmEx, DC, Disc, JCB, MC, V
This Polynesian Voyaging theme restaurant offers the same breezily buoyant atmosphere as sister eatery Tiki’s. Choose from pupu classics like coconut shrimp or build your own burger with toppings like kim chee and spicy guava sauce. Pacific Rim and American classics include fresh fish dishes and grilled Sterling Silver steaks and chops.
Mama’s Island Pizza
108 Hekili St., next to Foodland (931-6280). Sun-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri & Sat 11am-11pm. Pizzas: 12-incher, $16.99, 16-incher, $22.99. AmEx, Disc, MC, V, no checks.
Add pizza in Kailua to your list of reasons to leave town for the night. With super fresh ingredients and crust that’s not trying to be New York or Chicago, Mama’s pizza is a local favorite. Start your meal with chicken wings–they’re packed with flavor without all the squishy breading.
Mariposa
1450 Ala Moana Blvd. (951-3420). Sun-Wed 11am-9pm, Thu-Sat 11am-10pm. Entrees: lunch $16-$25, dinner $24-$45. AmEx, Bergdorf Goodman, JCB, Neiman Marcus, V.
Updated menu, same luxurious setting. Famished shoppers pour in for refined island-inspired cuisine with a focus on seafood and an array of salads. The popular warm liliko’i pudding cake, delicate and whimsically topped with a butterfly cookie, is a highlight.
Taiyo Ramen
451 Pi’ikoi St. (589-2123). Mon-Sat 10-3am, Sun 10am-9pm. Entrees: $6.25-$7.95. Cash only.
Some of the best things on Taiyo Ramen’s menu aren’t long and stringy. The real reason to come here is the chicken katsu curry rice. Thick, yellow-ish brown and slightly tangy with a spicy bite, the curry sauce was born to cling in globs to the generous plateful of rice and copulate with the un-nutritiously fried chicken katsu. Just as notable are the moist, garlicky gyoza and the pleasingly spicy diced kim chee. The noodles aren’t bad, either.
Vino
Restaurant Row, 500 Ala Moana Blvd. (524-8466). Wed, Thu 4:30-9:30pm; Fri 4:30-11pm; Sat 7-11pm. Tasting plates: $7.95-$16.95. AmEx, Disc, JCB, MC, V.
In master sommelier Chuck Furuya’s domain, grapes are the main attraction, with the wine list dwarfing the abbreviated menu. Under the direction of chef Keith Endo, the kitchen delivers savory dishes such as a revamped caprese salad (the bufalo mozzarella is fried), silky butternut squash and mushroom ravioli and rich osso buco. In Vino veritas.






