Culture

Culture

The Whole (Musical) Luau

A feast for fans and players alike, the revised and updated Hawaiian Music & Musicians can feed a multitude

Culture / From “Adios Ke Aloha” to “Yacka Hula Hickey Dula,” the first 1979 edition of Hawaiian Music and Musicians was just one part of the life-long effort of a remarkable man, George Kanahele, to define and refine Hawaiian-ness on political, cultural, spiritual and artistic levels. Its 543 well-researched and tightly written pages by 33 principal contributors (and at least another 30) laid down the tracks to a enthnomusicological masterpiece, over 200 entries deep. Like Mary Kawena Pukui’s 1957 Hawaiian-English Dictionary, Kanahele’s work was part restoration and part inspiration for future generations. Both were intended to catch the past before the kupuna who lived and remembered it passed on. Now there is a new edition of HM&M with an ampersand in place of “and,” plus 249 substantially revised and updated entries, including 49 songs and chants, the totality of which was overseen by local music critic John Berger. It’s a book you can put on the coffee table like pupu and, like pupu, watch people pick it up and find themselves unable to put it down. Yes, the entries are that ono.

The chutzpah it takes to appoint oneself as The Decider, as Bush 44 found out, hardly guarantees approval. Kanahele found this out in ’79 when his decision to include foreign and haole musicians raised a ruckus among purists who were appalled by the inclusion of, say, Onni Gideon, the greatest Finnish steel guitarist, who formed the Oahu Trio in 1941. Gideon no longer gets his own entry, but Berger upholds the Kanahele vision by including large sections on the music produced and avidly consumed world-wide. It’s a compliment to the universal appeal of post-contact Hawaiian music that it would become so integral a part in nations from Japan to Germany to Australia to France. Besides, the juxtaposition of turning from “Canada” to the immediately following “Chant” certainly keeps things lively.

But the soul of HM&M does indeed lie in Hawaii nei. The Introduction’s question, “What is Hawaiian Music?”, underscores every entry. There are the authoritative entries like “Chant,” “Himeni, History of,” “Hula” and “Poetry, Hawaiian.” There are the music biz entries such as “Grammy Awards” (which does indeed cover the controversies that led to the elimination of the Hawaiian Music category), “Hawaii Academy of Recording Arts” (ditto for controversies) and the ubiquitous masters of A&R, the de Mellos, Jack and Jon.

But the main attraction is hearing the judgment of Kanahele/Berger & Co. on the music and legacies of songs, genres and individual music makers. Though scrupulously informed, the writing is the opposite of stodgy or “encyclopedic,” whether the entry concerns the musical genealogy of the Farber clan, the legacy of Royal Hawaiian Band founder and leader Henri Berger, or the reason why the Brothers Cazimero had the most impact on the development of contemporary Hawaiian music. Comprehensive discographies and awards listings will settle many an argument in the years to come. Skirting the traps of historical lacunae, rival camps, personal preference, and populist/nativist prohibition, Hawaiian Music & Musicians delivers a true international overview that wears its authority lightly but never fails to make the tough call.

Hawaiian Music & Musicians,

(edit. George H. Kanahele and revised and updated by John Berger)

Mutual Publishing, 2012

Paperback, 926 pages, $35



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This week

Honolulu Confidential

For this year’s Food + Drink issue, we compiled 100-plus memories of the fantastic bites we’ve taken, the culinary experiences we’ve undergone and other tasteful moments of absolutely loving what Hawaii’s food scene has to offer. The result is a mixed plate of the Weekly ‘ohana’s favorite dishes, libations, produce, places and some lesser-known joys.

Favorite Dishes

Respect Your Veg At long last, vegetables are being recognized as culinary stars. The following dishes have two things in common: They’re veggie-centric, if not strictly vegetarian, and best eaten on the spot.

Noodles

Paitan Broth: Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya If you’re a ramen lover, you know the most important element of the bowl is the broth. At Kyoto Ramen Yotekko-Ya, the paitan broth ($9.95 for paitan chashu ramen) is deeply savory.

Baked Goods

Naan: Cafe Maharani “The dough is just special,” says owner Chris Rahman of Cafe Maharani. The naan ($2.99) is made to order and handled very delicately.

Mean But Worth It

Asian: Green Door Cafe Enter into Green Door Cafe to find a whole ‘nother world. Owner Betty Peng is a one-woman show (don’t start with her, or else) and cooks all of her Singaporean dishes to order.

RIP

Byron’s Drive-in The vacant, former Byron’s Drive-in building still stands near the airport since closing its doors in February. “We’d always go [to Byron’s] late at night,” says Sabrina Thompson, a Tripler Hospital nurse.

Meat

Shinsato Pork: Guava Smoked Scott Shibuya of Guava Smoked made a splash in the farmers’ market scene with his finger-licking good, guava wood-smoked Shinsato Pork. “I really wanted to be my own boss,” he says.

Dairy

Cheese: Surfing Goat Dairy Owners Thomas and Eva Kafsack moved from Germany to Maui and found that they missed receiving fresh goat cheese from their neighbors’ backyards. A few goats from the Big Island (and a huge investment) later, Surfing Goat Dairy was born.

Snacks & Desserts

Decadent Fries: Home Bar and Grill These aren’t ordinary fried potatoes. Chef Neil Nakasone’s Parmesan truffle fries ($8) are an elite class of spuds.

Pop-Ups

Rotations: Taste Some might say Chef Mark “Gooch” Noguchi and partner Amanda Corby, with the help of another power couple, Poni and Brandon Askew of StreetGrindz, fleshed out the pop-up trend with Taste. But: “Actually, Adam is Taste,” Gooch explains, referring to Taste’s general manager, Adam Lock.

Healthy

Healthy Food Truck: Beet Box Cafe The Beet Box Cafe is a sit-down eatery located in Haleiwa Town, but their bright yellow lunch wagon is also worth following. The lunchtruck serves organic, vegetarian burritos ($7-10), a special of the day made with farm-to-table ingredients ($10-12), smoothies ($7.50), kombucha ($5) and snacks such as baked goods and dried fruits ($3).

Seafood

A Cook’s Catch When it comes to fish, freshness really matters, so eating local from our Hawaiian waters is always in the best of taste. Health and sustainability also count.

To-Go

Whole Foods & Down To Earth Down to Earth offers strictly vegetarian delights such as Bombay spinach, eggplant parmesan, stuffed shells, Thai curry and vegetable korma ($9.59/pound). The tofu and eggplant are always sourced from local producers.

‘Aina

Edible Land: Permablitz Fruit trees flourish in Hawaii but sadly, much goes to waste. Permablitz aims to change that.

Fruits

Foraging: Strawberry Guava at Waahila Ridge Strawberry guava is invasive to Hawaii, which is why I don’t feel an ounce of guilt picking the small, red fruits in (free!) handfuls whenever I hike up Waahila Ridge. When they’re a light red color, just pull them off the trees, check for bug-made holes and bite in.

Spices

Nutmeg and Cloves: Frankie’s Nursery Want to spice up your kitchen? Lynn Tsuruda of Frankie’s Nursery says they sell spices grown in Hawaii, by the plant or the fruit.

Specialty Markets

Filipino: Pacific Drive out to Central Oahu and find Pacific Supermarket, a haven for all things Southeast Asian. With the Leeward community’s large Filipino population, access to local favorites at Pacific is a big deal.

Lesser Known

Korean Chew: Taegu Taegu, more properly pronounced as dae-goo, is either a variety of cod, sliced into strips and seasoned, or a seasoned side dish. There is some confusion, as I came to realize while asking my born-and-raised-in-Korea mom, because those side dishes are made with different fish.

Coffee & Tea

Matcha Latte: Peace Cafe Peace Cafe, a second home for vegans, carries a matcha (green tea) latte with a secret. “The first sip is always the most important,” explains an employee.

Healthy

Good For You: Kombucha A SCOBY is a symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeast integral to making kombucha. Kombucha, a fizzy tea, is full of promises to boost detoxification, immunity and digestion and joint health.

Cooking Classes

Free: Whole Foods Whole Foods Market Kahala offers free cooking classes at CookSpace in Ward Warehouse. “We just did a Health Starts Here cooking class,” says Whole Foods marketing supervisor Natalie Aczon.

Alcohol

Wine Tasting: Kalapawai Cafe Every second Sunday of the month at 3:30 p.m., Kalapawai Cafe holds a free wine tasting. “We [have] five wines.

Aloha ‘ino

Dear Friends, Readers, and Advertisers, I am sorry to say that this will be the last issue of the Weekly that we will print. I am sad about closing but I see no way that we can maintain our revenue stream and our fiscal health.

Phasing

Native Hawaiians and preservationists have pledged to fight a law, signed by Gov. Neil Abercrombie on May 28, that will allow some construction projects to begin before the site has been fully inspected for ancient burials.

A Food Forest

Imagine you’re walking through downtown Honolulu and, rather than bypassing an empty, blighted park, you’re drawn into an urban oasis–a forest of fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. You could spend your lunch break chatting with friends in the shade of an ‘ulu tree–and, if you’re hungry, pick whatever’s in season.

CIVIX

Road Rule On May 20, Gov. Abercrombie signed Act 73, requiring all vehicle passengers to buckle up regardless of age or seating arrangement.

Hell No, GMO

Tourists enjoying the Waikiki waterfront were treated to Hawaiian phrases such as “Aole, aole, aole GMO!” chanted by protesters in the March Against Monsanto on Sat., May 25. Translation: No GMOs, ever.

Done Deals?

The Hawaii Community Development Authority (HCDA) made its proposed plan to redevelop the Kakaako district available to the community during an open house on Thu., May 23. HCDA Executive Director Tony Ching began with a presentation of the new Transit-Oriented Development (TOD) plan before letting residents ask questions.

TheBus

In 2011 the city Department of Transportation Services (DTS) was tasked by then-Mayor Peter Carlisle’s administration to shave $10 million from its budget. Over the course of a year, several bus routes were cut and many more were shortened or reconfigured and the frequency of service decreased.

No one for GMO

You mentioned in your May 29 GMO article (“Big Pharm Fallout”) that GMO bans were placed on taro and coffee in 2008 in Kohala County. However it was an islandwide ban in Hawaii County.

Sovereignty issues

What a great quote: “I understand that it’s frustrating that we can’t get past the issue of homelessness . .

Not pono

I know space is limited and you couldn’t put everything in one small article (“Art with HART,” May 29). Here is the rest of what I wanted to have said.

Git ‘er done

Have five or more contractors “compete” by tackling sections of roadway (“Road Repaving,” May 29). Criteria for competing are expenses, timeliness and a level of quality assurance standards.

A memoir’s reach

Thanks for this article (“The Naked Truth,” May 22), I’m Mykel Hicks, grandson of Sharon Hicks, and I am so proud of my grandma for all she has done for herself, this family and specifically me. She is an amazing grandma who comes with a moving story I hope can help people around the world.

Fix Kakaako

Please remind readers that the HCDA is not interested in providing housing for minimum wage individuals or families, but in providing property developers with profitable opportunities; that our ancient water and sewage lines were not designed to support the needs of thousands of condo and apartment dwellers, but no one is interested in replacing them because no one wants to pay the price (“Civix,” May 22). As a result, Kakaako’s streets are regularly flooded with no sidewalk retreat for pedestrians, wheelchairs, bicyclists, skateboarders, etc., and constantly excavated/repaired to accommodate one project after the other.